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Totally agree with Dave, don’t think we’ve ever killed anyone yet . If your this unsure then maybe an idea to call a local repair company, especially if your Electrical system is that old. Alternatively you could do as Dave suggests but instead of pulling fuses to isolate, turn off the main switch or switches.
Good luck, please think carefully & maybe get some advice from a local specialist refrigeration engineer who can see and assess the machine properly.
Depends on what area of the country your in to be honest, but probably about the same again or more. Is it really worth it for a 3 year old appliance ?. You’ve already bought the machine, the relay and the PCB. You don’t have a working PCB so that’s more money, at the end of the day it’s your money and choice. Personally I’d cut my losses and put it down to bad experience.
So would appear that’s your short circuit, between the Live / Neutral input leads to the compressor. No wonder it went bang. Think it’s time for the scrap man, I’d hate to think what a replacement compressor & re – gas would set you back. Maybe more than a new unit.
When you say 0 Ohms, do you mean the same reading that you get with your meter probes separated or when the probes are together ?.
Apologies if you’ve already done this, but there’s no mention of checking that you actually have 240v in to the appliance.
Specialist01269 wrote:Good picture, have you Metered the compressor yet ?. If you have, what were the readings ?. Could also be a shorted relay.
Sorry, that should have read Meggered.
Good picture, have you Metered the compressor yet ?. If you have, what were the readings ?. Could also be a shorted relay.
Have you tried inputting your model number on the search bar to see if anyone else has had the problem ?.
Have you checked the main connection block where the power goes into the oven ?, Problems here are not uncommon on Beko cookers.
Please make sure that you isolate the power first.Never uploaded pics so can’t help you with that, think most of the guys host on another platform and link to it. I’m sure Electrofix or one of the other guys will tell you how to do it.
You don’t actually need to get to the wiring within the cabinet to test it. As long as you can get to the ends, use your multimeter to test end to end continuity of each wire. Next pick one wire and check it to all others one by one & also to Earth on the cabinet to check for shorts, you can quickly check most if not all the wiring like this without removing panels.
