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Sorry that should have said heater not New, I don’t blame you for not realising that there was a fault with the heater. Unfortunately you’ve been a victim of what we often come across, there are multiple sites where your told that it will be X part that has gone but never how to test and confirm this with a multimeter. We try to guide people in basic multimeter tests so that they don’t waste money on unnecessary parts.
Hi Dave: If you look at post 32, it says that the mains filter was changed but when screwed back to the machine the RCD flipped. Without the filter fitted then the RCD was fine, the wonder of Google then said the new was faulty. Way back when in the posts the op said that he’d replaced the PCB, my reading of that (may be wrong) is that the heater has only just been changed and the PCB replaced a while back.
If as you say the RCD trips when you screw the filter back in place, this would be a good place to start. Obviously this shouldn’t happen. POWER OFF WHEN CHECKING PLEASE. Your not going to like this, but isn’t it time to admit defeat now ?. Your just going around in circles and as Dave rightly said, you may well have done other damage now and there’s only so much we can do without being able to see and test the machine.
Had a quick look at this cooker, not only has the idiot taken the wiring off the controls / elements but the timer is dead and there’s a hole in the hob. Told a very happy woman to get her husband to buy her a new cooker.
Let’s forget the light for a minute. With the power off, remove the connection from one side of the element. Now with your multimeter set to read resistance, place the probes across the element terminals. Your meter should normally read between 25 to 50 Ohms for a good element.
Dave: Believe me, when it comes to safety then we’re both way up at the top of the same page. But these are the trade forums, when one of us tells someone that something is a Safety item then they should take that on board with the first telling. It shouldn’t be necessary to repeat the same advice again, the public side is a different matter.
electrofix wrote: Its one of those things that if you get it wrong you may be on the wrong side of a law suit and none of us wants that
DaveNot disagreeing with you Dave, But surely that applies to virtually any repair you carry out on an appliance. Should your repair cause damage or injury then your liable to feel the weight of the Law.
Personal opinion: If you can’t have a vented dryer, buy a good condenser dryer. They’re more efficient than the heat pump. Try to get one that has at least a B energy rating or better. Whichever you decide to go for, you can save yourself some money by putting the clothes through a high speed spin before putting in the dryer. This can cut down your drying times / costs quite a bit.
Hi: You really need to call a local appliance repairer to look at your machine. If you look at our find an engineer section, there may be someone in your area.
Sorry but we can’t help you unless your able to test parts, without this ability your just playing guess and we don’t do that. You would just be swapping parts on the off chance that you hit the right part, this is a really bad and expensive way to do things.
As Dave says, you need to be able to test parts to see if they are working. A Multimeter is the piece of Equipment used to do this, you need to have a Multimeter and be able to use it to carry out any fault finding. Please call a local repairer to look at your appliance.
As Dave said above, if you actually have 240v at the element and a good Element then it has to heat. What are you using to check the 240v ? A multimeter or just a mainstester screwdriver ?.
Yes Dave, but you’d already made that point. So as far as I’m concerned, my Reiterating it would have served no Useful purpose.
