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Hi Paul: If you don’t have 240v to the element, you need to find out whether the Live or Neutral is missing and trace that side of the supply back to where it disappears.
Hi: Due to the Dangers involved We don’t actually encourage live testing of appliances. That being said, we can’t actually stop you doing so.
When you say Voltage tester could you explain further, do you mean a Multimeter or a Neon screwdriver ?.Unfortunately the door may be damaged or misaligned now and not activating the safety switch on the machine. It might be an idea to call a local engineer to look at it for you.
Just for you to be aware: If this is a NEW fridge, as soon as you start removing parts or disconnecting wiring your going to invalidate the guarantee.
Hi Mike: Your more than welcome, thanks for letting us know what happened. It could possibly have been due to bad connections, wouldn’t be the first time this has happened.
A Multimeter or 2 pole tester would have made your testing easier, Anyway I’m glad that you seem to have it sorted now.
Have a good Christmas: AndyPut it on a 40 – 60° wash with no clothes in and see if the water boils, it could be a number of things but you would need to be able to do some Electrical testing with a multimeter to find out more.
If it’s the direct drive machine, I think error code 3e relates to motor harness faults or bad connections.
Maybe a daft question but when voltage testing are the wires still connected to the element ?, If voltage testing with the wires disconnected you could be reading ghost voltages. To get accurate readings the wires need to be connected to the element so that they’re under load.
Dave’s right: Manufacturers don’t supply any board schematics, that would make our lives too easy :). Besides they don’t want us fixing things, it costs them money.
Your welcome: Not sure if you know, but Condenser dryers do take slightly longer to dry than a traditional vented dryer.
