Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Re: Bosch WFB2004
The 2 problems may be connected i.e something caught around the heater element having damaged it. Which would be the first thing i’d check.
To check the heater element you need to be able to check it with a good preferably digital multimeter, disconnect the wiring from both terminals & check from Each 1 to earth. Both readings should be open circuit.If you don’t feel confident doing this, please see the repairs@ link for an Engineer in you area.
PLEASE REMEMBER POWER OFF & PLUG OUT BEFORE OPENING THE MACHINE.
Re: Hoover TV630 Problems
Sorry but we can’t supply Circuit diagrams or Manuals to non Trade members.
Please see rule 8 of Advice in public forums.Re: AEG Lavatherm 56600 / 91601409901- No heat?
2 Questions: What was the resistance across the Elements? What did you test the voltage with & was the Element connected when you tested?
PLEASE REMEMBER POWER OFF & PLUG OUT BEFORE TESTING.
Re: Quality Tamperproof Torx/Security Torx bit sets
You definately need to check your PL insurance before doing this in a customers premises, every policy I looked at when renewing mine a few weeks back had a clause about not using Blowlamps. If you added blowlamp use the price went up a fair bit.
Re: whirlpool washing machine stops mid cycle
It sounds like what you removed & cleaned the obstruction from was the pressure vessel. Well done nicely found & repaired, it’s often the little things like this can cause the biggest headaches. :salute:
Andy.
Re: Zanussi fl 850 – Program selector / timer keeps advancin
Hi: This could well be the cause of your problem along with 1 or 2 others, unfortunately this is not really a DIY repair & you would be better off looking at repairs@ for an Engineer local to you. 8)
Re: Zaunussi TD4212W Tumble dryer, warm air only
Hiya: The 2 elements are under a housing at the top right side of the back, looking from the rear & a good Diy’er should not have a problem replacing them ( They come as a complete unit ). Make sure to diagram where each wire goes & how wiring is routed first, as we can’t supply diagrams or specific wiring info.
If you have a Multimeter you can check the resistance of the elements to make sure before replacing them: 1 element is 33 ohms across the ends the other is 78 ohms, disconnect wiring before checking.PLEASE REMEMBER POWER OFF & PLUG OUT BEFORE OPENING.
U.K Whitegoods parts shop should have them in stock at very good prices.
HTH: Andy 8)Re: Quality Tamperproof Torx/Security Torx bit sets
Ah: The penny drops, now I know what you mean they are complete & utter C$^P. Must be made of the poorest metal on the planet.
My 3/8″ drive set came from an open air market £9.00 goes up to T70 & is superb, used it to take hubs from cars etc and still perfect. Just goes to prove that it’s not allways the most expensive kit that’s the best quality.Re: Quality Tamperproof Torx/Security Torx bit sets
Hi Steve: Which bit set are you talking about? the normal 1 or the Gold coloured 1? As I said earlier mine are still going strong after 4 years of use. Not had any problem with the Clarke Pro bearing puller set either, had that about 2 years now.
Maybe i’m just lucky. 🙂Re: Candy CD622… capacitor blown?
Sorry but it did seem that you thought you were being ignored & this isn’t something that we tend to do.
When you checked the machine were there any signs of Leakage / Seepage inside?
1 thing it would be advisable to check if you have a Multimeter, is the Earth continuity from the pin on the plug to any exposed metalic parts just to make sure you have a good Earth if there are any further problems, continuity should be a maximum of 1 ohm.Re: Quality Tamperproof Torx/Security Torx bit sets
If you want a reasonably priced set, try your nearest Machinemart.
They do a 1/4″ drive set for £7.99, Covers TT10 – TT40 in a holder with double ended right angle driver. Had mine for about 4 years & still going strong. 🙂
If you want the bits individually try http://www.cpc.co.uk they normally stock the Wera brand bits used by the German Army & C.K
HTH: Andy.Re: Candy CD622… capacitor blown?
cockney steve wrote:
A bang.. burnt electrical smell
😯 you haven’t investigated? the “bang/burnt smell” is usually a short-circuit or track to earth…could be a number of reasons, but dishwashers being damp-prone and carbon-brush-dust being conductive…..has to be near the top of the list of “things to check”
There won’t be Carbon brush dust, it’s a Capacitor start Induction motor so there are no brushes. 😕
Re: Candy CD622… capacitor blown?
Diplomate wrote:Perhaps I don’t deserve your help and you should ignore me 🙁
Hi Diplomate: Don’t quite understand why you think your’e being ignored, the boys appear to have been quite quick in responding to your messages. Unfortunately we can only answer posts in between our normal daily work so sometimes it may take a short while to reply, if you still have a problem then please let us know & we will try to help.
As Martin has already said you have a Capacitor start induction motor so you don’t have to worry about brushes. 8)HTH: Andy.
Re: DIPLOMAT COOKER HOOD NOT WORKING!
When you say you checked the fuses do you mean inside or in the Plug / Fused connection unit feeding the hood?
Have also come across quite a few hoods where they are on their own Radial circuit direct from the Fusebox worth checking as may be nothing more that an MCB needs re-setting in the box. 🙂
