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luked98324 wrote:
My (basic) understanding was to carry out a continuity test with the mutlimeter – displays ‘1’ with no contact and ‘000’ if I tap the probes together. Putting them on the terminals gave me a reading of 29. Which I thought meant it was faulty…being that it should be close to 000? Now hesitant to hit the buy button on the part, as its £60….Dishwasher isn’t getting hot.
Sounds like the heater is reading 29 ohms which is likely just fine. I’d be looking at what is controlling it – a relay on the main board perhaps?
If it was new in March 2020 then it should still be under warranty as all John Lewis products get at least 2 years.
That Crabtree device is an RCBO so I think this is still much more likely to be an earth fault issue than an overload one. As electrofix has said pulling over 40A on a cooker circuit takes some doing.
The RCD is tripped by leakage to earth and you don’t appear to have tried to measure that. Unfortunately a normal multimeter isn’t ideal for taking that measurement but is still worth a go. Otherwise you’ll need to isolate each part in turn to find which one is causing the trips.
tiffy2 wrote:…
On reflection, the only thing I didn’t think to check yesterday was the oven timer contacts?
I’am assuming the timer/programmer works on the large oven only, the manual is not very clear on that?That could explain the oven not working as many auto ovens need to be reset after power had been lost.
Still doesn’t explain the bizarre wiring though.Thinking more about this, the way it operates seems rather strange. All glass fronted ovens I’ve owned have a light that comes on as soon as you turn the oven on so you can see what’s cooking inside. Where they have a door switch it usually turns off the fan and elements when opening the door but leaves the light on.
Does the bottom oven now work with the door open, as I’m wondering if it was wired wrongly all along?The fact that slamming the door ‘wakes it up’ suggests bad connection, bad solder joint, or sticking relay to me. I’d be examining the boards very closely for the first two and giving the relay a gentle tap for the last. Are you sure the relay you replaced is rated for the correct voltage as an over rated one (eg 12V relay replaced with 24V) could also cause intermittent operation.
This switch goes with your oven but I’m not sure if it controls the light, element, or both – https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/814490323-smeg-oven-door-microswitch
The metal arm that goes with it suggests to me that it’s operated by the door hinge.Are you sure the wiring to the thermostats is correct and their probes are correctly located as it seems unlikely that both are faulty.
I would disconnect the suspect element and test again (ensuring the disconnected wires can’t touch anything) before ordering any parts.
It may have just got a bit of damp in it from sitting so it’d be worth removing whichever element is causing the issue and drying it out in your home oven to see if that makes any difference.If its tripped the main earth leakage breaker then the most likely candidate is the heater element. Is it the type with an exposed element in the base of the machine as, given that it went with a bang, there might be visible damage to it.
The humming sound is likely the cooling fan running.
Not sure why the fan doesn’t run on ‘top and bottom with fan’ setting as I would have thought it should. Assume the fan isn’t just cutting out when it’s up to temperature?dames wrote:Thanks Tubafan , will give that a go.
Is there a knack to get the belt back on to the correct tension?Cheers
DamesAssuming its like my Gorenje it’s an stretch rubber belt so there’s no tension adjustment. Dave’s (@electrofix) suggestion about the pulley sounds more likely to be the issue though.
I had a noise that I thought was mechanical or something in the drum on my Gorenje machine (link) and it turned out to be a slipping belt. However I couldn’t get it to do it when turning the drum by hand so it may not be the case on yours. It might however be worth removing and refitting the belt to see if the drum position that makes the sound changes.
