[tubafan]

A cooling fan control stat (switch?) will only have continuity when it gets warm, so I’d expect it to be open circuit at room temperature.

[tubafan]

I’d check that the hinges have gone back in correctly as it sounds like they may not have.

[tubafan]

It’s a shaded pole motor so doesn’t need a start capacitor. Either it’s faulty or something is binding.

[tubafan]

Does the motor have any part numbers or makers name etc on it as it probably wasn’t made by Daewoo and might be available for something else?

[tubafan]

In the end I got a refund on the pattern part as it clearly wasn’t compatible as claimed. I’ve now fitted a genuine BSH part, at three times the price of the ‘compatible’, and it works correctly. Looking at the original valve it does appear to have a restrictor in the base of the output tube.

[tubafan]

Hi Dave,
There’s no obvious restriction on the original valve output. You’re right that I can deal with this by closing the tap but I’d rather not do that as previous experience tells me that over time it causes wear on the tap internal parts that can make them then not close properly.

[tubafan]

Is it definitely getting hot during the wash cycle as this sounds like the heating element isn’t working (despite what the engineer says)?

[tubafan]

Clearly hasn’t been handled correctly in transit and has been damaged. Personally I’d reject it.

[tubafan]

Yes, and I’d go for the larger one with the slightly raised top, but you may as well do both while you’re there. If you can use a soldering iron it should be an easy job to replace them.
Note that they are polarity sensitive and must go in the right way around as marked on the board.

[tubafan]

What’s likely failed is one of electrolytic capacitors – probably the one nearest to the relays as its top looks slightly domed in the video.

[tubafan]

Sounds like it’s waiting for the motor to start, which I assume doesn’t happen?

[tubafan]

Before buying a new machine, have you checked the motor brushes? Might be a cheap fix.

[tubafan]

Usually when things trip an MCB for current overload they go with a bit of a bang if there’s a fault. More likely you have RCBOs as Dave has suggested and that it is an earth leakage fault.

[tubafan]

I’d be checking the compressor area of the fridge for dead rodents.

[tubafan]

It also depends how the rings are controlled as some alter the on/off duty cycle of the whole ring depending on the setting and others have rings split into sections, with different combinations of the sections being powered for different heat settings.
Our Hotpoint cooker has the later type and even those cycle on the overheat stat when on full power.

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