[twicknix]

forgot to add to the above, when I selected the program before pressing start, it made a loud noise which sounded mechanical such as fan or compressor going. Got me thinking if this is malfunctioning program that is giving out clean filter alarm?

[twicknix]

I think the plan is to take it out and check the connections and the mains input and perhaps replace the 3 pin moulded plug for a new one to ensure good connections.

Thank you for the suggestion, Dave.

Matt

[twicknix]

https://media3.bosch-home.com/Product_Shots/300×300/MCSA00847184_F2277_HBC84H501_481327_def.jpgJust give you the idea on what is looks like if I can describe it better – the light display goes blank, the left control knob doesn’t respond then few mins later power restored.

[twicknix]

You are not the only one that is confused.

The fan oven works and reached temperature but according to the customer that it has a tendency to cut out halfway through cooking same goes for microwave that it cuts out after 2 mins or thereabouts.

While I was there, the appliance appears to have to powered down completely as in dead, no lights, nothing responding. This happened at the end of the timer on microwave although the customer says it happens halfway through the cooking of let say 4 mins cooking and powered down after around 2 mins. The oven was the same although it ran for more than 7 mins and I didn’t have time to sit it out so I turned the oven knob to off position then it powered down.

Which led me thinking there is a problem with the controller or thermostat? The cooling fan is working fine and I must stress that is from observational point of view as I did not open up to investigate further as I did not have anything to pinpoint since I got confused on the fault description like yourself.

[twicknix]

I like to add to it, the fan oven is working and it does cut off after 5 mins. Seems that there is overheating issue in there somewhere but the fan is working and it is blowing through the cavity. The cavity I mean is the air vents on the top of the microwave not the actual internal box just to clarify.

[twicknix]

Further update…. It was a very long protracted affair on getting replacement harness, the passage of time meant the customer gave up waiting. I ordered the harness as I was given the impression that it wouldn’t take long for it to arrive instead it took two months. The customer cancelled the job and I am left with the harness that I cannot return. Do you know anyone who might be interested if one is willing to make an offer? It costed me around £45.

[twicknix]

electrofix wrote:have emailed the manual to you

Dave

Thanks Dave,

There is no particular fault code which has me stumped. Is there a way to reactivate the fault code if it is already in the memory bank to see if I have something to follow up?

Looks like I am gonna have to do some very old fashioned testing and checking the wirings, physical components if I am not able to get fault code.

It is interesting to note that switch off appliance for two minutes and check again, the cooker would have been ‘reset’ several times during my visit. I needed to check fan element for continuity hence the need to isolate power supply.

[twicknix]

Any photos of motor triac so I know what it looks like? And how do you test the motor tacho and what resistance should it be? I am currently working on same set of scenario,

[twicknix]

Found the mediator. Couldn’t find anything relating to the fault that I am seeing. Will make another visit and attempt to do a test sequence to see if it throws up fault to give me some pointers.

[twicknix]

I don’t have that kind of access.

[twicknix]

electrofix wrote:Am with you its normal

element will glow till it reaches temp which is why I always advise a pre heat

Dave

After much discussion, it turned out that the oven bulb went 4 weeks ago, it was two weeks ago that she noticed that the grill element was glowing when she used the convection settings for her casserole. The oven got a lot darker due to blown bulb, the grill element glowing brought her attention to it otherwise she would have not noticed.

I even showed her the exploded diagram of the oven and explained on how it works. I think she realised that the oven is performing perfectly well apart from blown oven bulb which I will replace next week. The oven was too hot for me to change the bulb over. It was one of those weird morning!

[twicknix]

Turns out that it is the wiring harness due to massive differences on resistance on one particular line from the control fascia to the main pcb. Two lines out of three showed minimal resistance and one showed a big one of 30 ohms. I expected all to be similar hence the diagnosis. Thank you Dave for the info.

Have ordered replacement harness and will update in due time.

[twicknix]

Thanks Dave

I’m trying to get my head around this. Obviously I need to spend some time on the machine which will be a challenge in an area of no mobile reception. Will print it out and tick my way through.

[twicknix]

Everything works fine on the 45 deg program,
1) pump out
2) fill then clicks
3) wash pump starts up in stages
4) dispenser sprung open
5) heater works and heated up to prescribed temperature of 45 degrees, well actually around 40 degrees due to heat loss.
6) drain out
7) fill up
8) wash pump
9) drain
10) presumedly drying stage then drain and beeped to indicated that it has ended.

[twicknix]

Customer emailed me to say it was F12. I am pretty sure that he did not tell me F12 as I am certain he said F15! Obviously a different ball game with different diagnosis, it doesn’t quite make sense as the button controller is responding very well and no indication of flickering or anything of that matter. I checked the state of the wiring especially at the lower part of the door where the insulation sleeve have a tendency to ride down and squashing the cable. None of the cable appears to be compressed and all are intact. I even checked the connections on the main board, even the board itself, nothing untoward.

Quick google searches relating to the H code suggesting kink on the inlet hose, water supply, etc etc. Hence the reason why I replaced the water chamber. I checked it all over, no indications of kinking as it was very well installed with all the hoses and main lead easily accessible and not stretched out as there are a lot of slack on all three sources.

Anyhow, having trouble with logging onto ASWO, probably website maintenance. Will try again tomorrow…

[Author]

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