[Twoten]

electrofix wrote:have got 651956 in stock so here is info of it
Dave]

Thanks Dave,

There’s nothing that ties up to the original. The body looks like a closer match ut not sure if I’d want to risk it!

Keith.

[Twoten]

rickard wrote:This one has got the motor in the middle and no way of getting in to the motor or pipes.

You should see the hose clip to the right of the pump. Either cut it with side cutters or as Rickard says prize it off.
Remove the rubber mount at the back of the motor then pull it back off the sump at the same time as twisting it in a clockwise direction. Where it connects to the sump it’s just a push fit, nothing to undo.
Fitting the new one is just the reverse, the new pump should come with a replacement clip.

[Twoten]

electrofix wrote:glad you sorted it
must have put a big smile on your face when you found it lol
Dave

It was a relief.
I hate to be beaten.
Thanks again.

[Twoten]

I went back again today and following further tests I eventually found the problem.
When the grill was on I was also getting 110v at the fan element. Apparently sometime in the past (the customer can’t remember when), they think an electrician might have replaced the fan element! When doing this he’d managed to switch two of the three wires.
Surprisingly the main oven still worked OK. It wasn’t until the customer had the oven professionally cleaned they were told the grill doesn’t get hot enough.
The wires connected to the element were fairly discoloured and in all honesty, I’ve never had to take much notice of them in the past.
Unfortunately, I was trying to find a fault that had developed on the oven, not for a fault created by someone else (lesson learned)!
As you suggest Dave, the fan oven element must have been in series with the grill.
Thanks again for the help.

[Twoten]

electrofix wrote:well if your only getting 110 on the grill elements something else is swallowing the other 110. test both other elements to see if either is powered 110 as well. very likely the fan element as the lower element is too low power wise to give an equal split
Dave

I have returned to investigate further.
Tests show resistance and insultation OK on the fan oven circular element and base element. When I set the control to fan oven I get 240v at the fan element.
If I disconect the base element (1 terminal) I still get about 110v at the element which suggests it’s not in series with the grill.
There are 2 identical ovens at this address, the ovens are plugged in to 13amp plug sockets so I’ve swapped sockets to make sure it isn’t a supply problem, I’ve also checked connections in plug and mains connector block.
I have switched the grill elements then the selectors followed by the PCB’s, none of which made any differance.
I am at a loss as to what could be causing this.

[Twoten]

electrofix wrote:that sounds like the elements are in series not parrallel
can you select a single and double grill setting ? if yes will it work on both ?
was thinking they may put elements in series when used as a top oven
dave

This was definitely on the grill settings.
Single and double grill both supplied about 110v to relevent terminalss.
I had wondered about the elements being in parallel, is the power switched via the selector switch or the relays on the PCB?

[Twoten]

electrofix wrote:have emailed you the wiring diagram as i could not see the colours you mention
since you may be able to trace it back to a plug on the board you may get an idea from that
Dave

Thanks for the wiring diagram Dave.
It looks like KN8 terminal 5&6 marked lower LED. It’s not showing any wires from the terminals though.

[Twoten]

Hollytree_Technical wrote:It sounds like it is the floor illumination LED – I have seen several of these cause this problem, usually the customer doesn’t want to replace the harness so I just cut it off at the PCB and the machine works fine.
Jem

I’m going to go back and take another look. If it is the LED indicator I was going to talk to the landlord. My guess is they will probably go for this option particularly if it could go again at a later date.

[Twoten]

Thanks, Dave,
It pointed down, but looked like it was pointing into the overflow channel where there’s a lower lip in the front edge of the tank. I should have taken a photo or opened it up to take a closer look. I thought I was going to find it as a spare and identify it that way.
If it was an LED I would have thought it would be available as a spare.
I think I’ll have to go back and strip it down.

[Twoten]

Kentish wrote:Check the condenser and heater unit for restrictions, including the ducting to door seal mouth. The current dryer assembles seem to block with a waxy gunk in the element box and fan as they inject water into the fan housing.
The seals are quite useless in reality, so I often use the silicone sealant that comes with the dryer heater kit you needed for the modified dryer element. All it is is a heat proof silicone, but was in a reasonable size. I wouldn’t necessarily go changing all the seals, just clean it all up and use a sealant.

Thanks Kentish,
I had considered using heat resistant silicone as well as replacing the seals but I generally I only use sealant where it’s been used originally. I’ll do as you suggest in this instance though.

[Twoten]

electrofix wrote:those kits look like they just blank off a hole in the outer tub so they wont cause your problem

if it has got an ecoball somewhere then normally a good clean cures any sticking problems

assume from what you say you have had sump hose off the drum and checked for blockages

has customer changed soap powder recently ? was thinking if yes it may foam more

could try less powder

Dave

No obvious blockages here the sump hose fits.
I checked the amount of powder used which appears to be correct. I think this machine has a valve in the moulded sump rather than an ecoball in the sump hose. I assumed the kit as to blank off the drum after removing a plug to access the valve for clearing but could be wrong on this.
When I managed to replicate the fault the machine had drained OK but there was a bit of foam.
How does this machine sense if there’s excess foam?

[Twoten]

I’ve never come across this before either. I’m apprehensive putting another sump in as I can’t be sure it won’t happen again.

[Twoten]

Just to update:
Further testing revealed the drain pump to be open circuit.
Pump replaced and problem resolved.
Considering the number of Neff and Bosch dishwashers I’ve looked at, I’ve never found one of these pumps go open circuit.
Thanks for the help.

[Twoten]

electrofix wrote:as you know bosch tech is hard to get but the nearest one i can find is

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/958098/Bosch-She4am12u.html

its worth scanning for any possible clues as it uses 3 phase motors etc

Dave

Cheers Dave.

[Twoten]

electrofix wrote:open circuit or jammed drain pump ?

Dave

It’s definitely not jammed, I don’t think I checked to see if it’s O/C though.
I’ll go back and check this.
There can’t be much else left other than the PCB.

[Author]

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