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Twoten
ParticipantI called Stoves, they were reluctant to send a parts listing. They looked at the drawings and said everything in the door area is shown in red so it’s going to be obsolete!
I think I’m going to have a draw a line under this one.
Thanks for the help Dave.Twoten
Participantelectrofix wrote:pic seems to have failed
Dave
Can you see this one?
Twoten
Participantelectrofix wrote:if you look at the pics of the slider its split. the bar goes in the split ( middle) and the pin goes through the lot making a hinge
when you see it you will realise its a very simple system
whats happened is the slider has fallen to bits. other bits may be worn but you will need sliders all the rest is metal
DaveHaving looked at the appliance the sliders and bar are different from the one relating to the above part number.
I have attached a photo of the original one.[IMG2=JSON]{“data-align”:”none”,”data-size”:”full”,”height”:”376″,”width”:”794″,”src”:”https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forums/filedata/fetch?filedataid=5734&type=thumb&attachmentnodeid=”}[/IMG2]
Twoten
Participantelectrofix wrote:if you look at the pics of the slider its split. the bar goes in the split ( middle) and the pin goes through the lot making a hinge
when you see it you will realise its a very simple system
whats happened is the slider has fallen to bits. other bits may be worn but you will need sliders all the rest is metal
Dave
Cheers Dave, I’ll book it in and take a look.
Twoten
Participantelectrofix wrote:all you should need is new sliders
poss part no above
that bar coming out of the case is connected to a spring to pull the door in. the slider sticks out the bottom of the door.and stops metal to metal contact
Dave
The pin going through the bar is sitting at about a 45 degree angle to the bar. I have a video but couldn’t upload it. Should this pin be fixed or will the slider hold it in position?
Twoten
Participantelectrofix wrote:fan motor was modded to lower power in later units
older units have metal fan later ones use plastic. done for energy saving purposes
cant see any change of toc but have had them self heat and trip out early when contacts get dirty with age
Dave
This model has the plastic fan.
“had them self heat and trip out early when contacts get dirty with age” are you referring to the TOC contacts getting hot?Twoten
Participantelectrofix wrote:yes is the slider one
have you looked at it ? whats wrong with it ?
Dave
Hi Dave,
Customer sent this. Thought I would check if the hinge is available first.
Keith.
Twoten
Participantelectrofix wrote:putting this number into Qualtex brought up 082077803
which is the door slider. if this is correct then these are not a 1 piece hinge. there is a bar and a pin plus the slider. All held in place by a horizontal spring inside the case
have you got the proper model. With the age of this am expecting a number beginning 0505 but could be wrong
Dave
Sorry, 059042373 S.No: 000139
January 22, 2021 at 9:41 pm in reply to: Bosch WAN24100GB/19 No motor action and door not opening. #474664Twoten
ParticipantMy thought was a likely board fault but at about £150 I think I might have to pass on this one.
I hate doing this but it’s too much of a gamble.January 22, 2021 at 8:04 pm in reply to: Bosch WAN24100GB/19 No motor action and door not opening. #474662Twoten
Participantelectrofix wrote:that machine uses a 3 phoase motor and in inverter board to drive it
i would inspect this board for damage
beware this board has very high voltages on it. leave it a few hours switch off before you take it apart. even then be careful as the capacitors are charged at 300 volts
DaveI assume the inverter board is power module 11042638. I can’t see any obvious damage.
Are these boards known to give problems?December 30, 2020 at 8:37 pm in reply to: AEG Washer/Dryer Door unlocks and machine resets plus Ed8 error #474052Twoten
Participantelectrofix wrote:Ed8 is a dryer motor tacho absent
could the dryer motor be your fault. the dryer motor is activated on some of the rinses to help clean the condenser
DaveThe dryer motor ran the first time I tested it on the dry cycle but it didn’t seem to run in the test program today.
If it should activate during some of the rinses, it would explain why the fault appears when it does.Looks like I’m going to have to go back and double-check the dryer motor.
Thanks for your help again Dave.
Twoten
Participantelectrofix wrote:have you checked pcb for blown tracks ?
does the lamp work ?
Dave
No sign of blown tracks and the bulb works.
Twoten
Participantelectrofix wrote:sorted check email
Dave
Thanks Dave.
Twoten
Participanttimdowning wrote:Going by other posts on this site the only difference is the temperature side of things. So if you fit the incorrect one you’ll get the customer saying it isn’t heating enough.
That’s worth knowing. If it doesn’t damage the new heat pump at least I can put it back in stock for another time. It’s not as if I won’t need it again.
Twoten
Participantelectrofix wrote:know that feeling if it was £10 you would take a chance
as far as i can see, not checked every one but as far as i can see only onw model uses 12019637 and thats s51m53x1gb /35
all the rest seem to use 651956As you say, it looks like it was changed on the last variation. The way the 651956 pump fits together is a closer match to the original as well.
I’d say I’m about 85{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure it’s the 651956 but still not sure if I’d want to risk it though.
If it was a case of it just not working then I’d take a chance and hold it as stock if it didn’t work but if it damages the new motor it’s an expensive mistake.electrofix wrote:
have you managed to get the pump apart and access the impeller or are you just looking into it ?I removed the pump because I thought there might be something caught in the impeller. First one I’ve seen where the impeller has come away from the backplate that rotates.
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