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washingmachinewoman
ParticipantEHO fault on AEG, Electrolux, Zanussi tumble dryer
Most of the time, this is caused by dry solder on relays, i.e. either cracked solder and/or not enough solder.
A bit of flux on connections (I used Kingbo RMA-218, which comes in a syringe with a very small nozzle for application precision), then resolder all the connections that look dodgy, adding some solder if needed. Unless you are a hawk, you’ll need some kind of magnifying device to spot the dodgy connections. I used my phone.washingmachinewoman
ParticipantThink it’s DC92-01928H
Qualtex doesn’t have it, but Aswo does. Much cheaper but slower on eBay.washingmachinewoman
ParticipantSo I enquired if there still was a minimum annual spend to keep your account, and there is not (at least not currently).
Free carriage from £75
Otherwise £4.49 delivery (+VAT I presume)I might give them another go, although would prefer to collect. Seems silly to have parts stocked 1 mile down the road taken to a courier’s depot miles away, only to be delivered to my house nearly where they started. However, don’t think it will be possible as they did away with their trade counter. Having said that, it’s maybe better than having the parts delivered all the way from France (ASWO, which I use most of the time).
The two points that I’m not liking much about this are:
I had asked them to remove my details from their system back in 2021, looks like they ignored that request.
Not sure I’d want to do business again with a company that turned its back on the small independent appliance engineers. They can easily do that again. ASWO, on the other hand, have been exemplary.washingmachinewoman
ParticipantReviving this thread. Anyone who had their accounts closed down due to not spending enough received an email lately inviting you to start using your account again?
Lucie
August 4, 2024 at 4:40 pm in reply to: Drum turns with no washing in machine but wont turn with washing in machine #490793washingmachinewoman
ParticipantSeen several of them, the drum pulley is plastic on these and the spline teeth sheer off, so it slips on the drum shaft. For future reference, it’s just a case of replacing the drum pulley.
washingmachinewoman
Participantassume you checked the heater and heater ntc?
washingmachinewoman
ParticipantReporting back on this. It was the pump, as suggested by Dave (thanks!), resistance was 3.5Mohms. It’s always the thing you forget to check, isn’t it. I wouldn’t mind but I have some notes on my phone from way back when I did my training, including “if no fill can be caused by brushes or pump. Catches engineers out”. Remembered the brushes (it was a brushless motor), but not the pump — it was the first time I encountered the fault in the field — and didn’t think to look up my notes. I’m sure there’s a lesson in there somewhere…
washingmachinewoman
ParticipantIt’s a stab in the dark at the moment, I haven’t been back to the machine. Figured it was the quickest way, as can’t go back until next week.
I was only able to partially inspect the board as some of the connections wouldn’t budge. I’ve damaged a board before because the connections were too tight, so didn’t want to risk it. No obvious sign of damage but it wasn’t the component side.
washingmachinewoman
ParticipantPump on order, somehow don’t think the customer would go for new pcb if pump doesn’t do the trick but you never know.
washingmachinewoman
ParticipantIn theory it sounds alright, I don’t have any strong views for or against. I wouldn’t be in a position to join it though.
washingmachinewoman
ParticipantHaven’t had another look yet, I did check absolutely everything… apart from the timer because I assumed it worked as it was showing the time, so I think it’s likely to be that as Dave suggests.
I asked customer to try programming it and sent over the link to the manual, but haven’t heard back yet.washingmachinewoman
ParticipantThanks Dave, hopefully will have another look soon. The customer is a friend and not in a hurry to replace the cooker yet as smaller oven and hob work.
Lucie
washingmachinewoman
Participantwashingmachinewoman wrote: However, although some water went in the drum, I noticed the 3rd inlet valve goes directly into the condenser unit via what looks like an overengineered series of hoses held by clips. The clips on one of the joints were rusty, making me think there is a pressure leak. I checked the valve operation and no water seemed to be fed through there whilst I was watching. Anyone know what the purpose of this is, and at which point water should be fed in those hoses and into the condenser? Unfortunately, I forgot to check the valve resistance, the house was chaotic and I didn’t want to stay there too long…
Checked on some videos and of course it’s what the usual setup is. Obviously going on holidays has addled my brain. So I need to rephrase my question. At the start of the drying cycle, some water goes into the drum though not via the dryer inlet hose. I think this is partly what has thrown me. Then I would expect some water to trickle from the dryer inlet hose in order to condensate the hot water from the drum, but this is not happening. So it looks like the valve is faulty (why oh why did I not check its resistance). Why would it put some water in the drum via wash inlet hose first though?
washingmachinewoman
ParticipantIf it exists then it appears to have become a secret organisation. Website no longer exists. Maybe is should be renamed Domestic Appliance Secret Association?
washingmachinewoman
ParticipantWe don’t because they have such a long warranty, I imagine. I mentioned Ebac to a customer a while ago, but then on reading the Trustpilot reviews, it appears people can wait a very long time for their machines to be looked at, so they probably don’t have enough engineers signed up. Also the out of balance system appears overly sensitive.
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