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April 21, 2005 at 9:11 am in reply to: Ariston 1164t spins, but only under certain conditions. #132387
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KeymasterRe: Ariston 1164t spins, but only under certain conditions.
Thanks for your prompt replies, what a useful forum this is!
The model number is AL 1164T.
The reason the technician was called was to fix this problem and his diagnosis was ‘faulty motor’ because ‘when the commutators are worn they can do weird things’. I wasn’t convinced, but he’s the professional….
since then my theory has developed a little.. i gave the drum a shove in the down left direction and it returned in a nicely damped way, then a shove in the down right direcion and it oscillated three or four times. So it’s fairly clear that the damper(Shock absorber if you prefer) has failed.
It looks to me as if the resonant frequency is close to the frequency of impulse the machine gets when in the washing mode and so it goes ‘out of balance’ during a normal program. When set straight to spin, however it might not stay at that low speed long enough to resonate.
Just a theory……admin
KeymasterRe: What washer for up to £300?
Hi,
Thanks for the heads-up. I can get a Bosch WFL2066 for £250 or a WFO2866 for £290, both of which are from the Classixx range; is the 2866 worth the extra or should I try and get a bit more money together for something from the Exxcel range (though money’s very tight and the cheapest I can find the WFX2467 for is around £350 – all prices include delivery)?
The reason I ask is that I was looking through some of the threads and someone mentioned that the Exxcel and Logixx range were pretty good, as if to suggest the Classixx range isn’t?! 😕
Any other suggestions?
Cheers
admin
KeymasterAPM6925 gas problem
Thanks for the advice – can a repair service be able to repair it based on the information you’ve provided?
Thanks again
Jonadmin
KeymasterRe: Samsung SR-S20
Hi Dave ,
Thanks for your response.
The full model number is SR-S2026CVW . Ice forms on the lower rear inside section of the refridgerator ,I’ve just got rid of another lot – it was almost 2″ thick in places and yes there are what appear to be vent slots either side , the panel is marked REF EVAPORATOR if that’s any significance. Strange thing happened earlier this evening too , I noticed the fridge temp indicator was at 11 when I’d set it to 7 , I reset temp to 7 but a short while later it was on 11 again ! ?Ron
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KeymasterRe: Electrolux seems possessed!!!
I’ve just had a good look under my machine.
From your description I think I’ve found the tacho. If I’m right then it’s on the very end of the motor shaft (at the opposite end to the the belt drive) on a section of motor which is around 4cm in diameter, and has two thin wires coming from it. I can only see a half sugar cube size lump on the outside, and I can’t tell off-hand if there’s any more to it inside. There is however a shaft end cap right next to it which also looks pretty much in place and is quite rigidly mounted. The bit of the motor structure that it’s mounted to also seems aligned and quite rigid. What actually is the tacho? Is it some kind of magnetic sensor? If so, should I remove the end cap and check if there’s a magnet inside that’s working loose from the drive shaft?
Whilst I was fiddling I also had a look at the brushes, and they seem to be in reasonable shape – i.e. plenty of carbon left, and making good contact with a reasonably clean comm. The machine has only had light use and there’s no obvious sign of lots of carbon from wear.
At this stage it looks to these inexperienced eyes that the tacho is perhaps OK? Is that right, and should I therefore be thinking that the motor control electronics might be faulty, or haven’t I actually yet checked the tacho properly?
I can see how a tacho fault may account for the drum speeding up, and *possibly* even account for the non-starting (tho I’d have suspected the brushes for that), but I don’t understand why it explains the spin suddenly changing direction, or the main timer rapidly clicking through the fill/drain sequences in the rinse cycle?
If the motor control electronics are also partly responsible for timing the motor action then I guess I’d be more suspicious that it’s this module which is causing the problems. I note that penguin called the electronics here a “digiboard”, which says to me that this is perhaps a lot more than just a few high voltage switches; i.e. it probably has quite a complicated motor controller built in? In which case it presumably does some of the motor sequence timing too? Or am I just completely barking up the wrong tree? 😆
Thx
admin
KeymasterRe: Between the drums
Thanks Penguin,
I have plenty of confidence but no expertise. Sounds a simple solution though.
Thanks again for your help,
Andy. :clown:admin
KeymasterRe: Bosch Dishwasher not draining
Just to let you know, cycle now finished and sump is clear of water. I think its worked.
Thanks for all your help.
Steve
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KeymasterRe: Zanussi ZF 47/51FF Fridge Freezer
Its knacked have ordered a new one 🙂
Thanks anyway
x
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KeymasterSiemens element
Thanks to you both.
I’ll be cautious – I used to work with Radio transmitters – they scared the **** out of me so I swapped to low voltage electronics, then software. I will use your figures to confirm that it is the element that’s bust.
No I didn’t pay him to write down the numbers – I told them the numbers when I phoned. Described the symptoms. The guy from the only Siemens repairer I could locate came out, looked, checked for the part on his blackberry, and claimed that it was no longer available – and still charged! javascript:emoticon(‘:evil:’)
Evil or Very Mad javascript:emoticon(‘:(‘)
SadThanks again,
Ian
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KeymasterRe: Bosch Dishwasher not draining
Martin, Clive,
Tried the gallon of water and ran machine hardly any water came out. Removed the non-return valve, added water and started the machine and within 30 seconds water came out of the waste pipe. Fitted valve back and am now running the machine on a cycle.
Hopefully this has cured the problem. I let you know if it doesn’t.
Much appreciate your advice.
Steve
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KeymasterRe: Common Sense
Speak for yourself you scots ****
Kebinski
PS can I have a new washer TOO! Ta in anticipation ski
PPS what a load of…….
admin
KeymasterRe: Indesit Dishwasher error code A05
Cheers for your help. At least I know where to start looking. 🙂
admin
KeymasterRe: DeLonghi Integrated Dishwasher D 12 S – COLD CYCLE
Thank-you Dave, I asked my wife to check. These are the numbers:
Type 12033
Mod D12Spower ratings:
220-230V 2.25 kw
2.1 Kw
10AAlso a number NR 8310600205.
I guess the D12S is similar to part of the Kenwood number you identified, so this is likely, but would it be risky to order this and then find it did not suit? Let me know what you think. Thanks Dean.
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KeymasterRe: lg dishwasher
try this link might be usefull
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KeymasterRe: Electrolux seems possessed!!!
Thanks Martin/Dave – you guys are stars!
Phew! So it *probably* doesn’t need a new timer/controller then?! That would be excellent news!
I assume that the brushes might account for the motor not starting when warm?
But what exactly is the tacho? I assume it’s some sort of motor controller/regulator? Is this an electronic or mechanical speed controller, and is this mounted on the motor or nearby? (FWIW, I can see a smallish module nearby, which appears to have all the motor wiring running to it. It’s about the size of a notebook PC power brick, but looks like a tuppaware box. Is that it?)
I assume that it is somehow interacting with the main timer/controller, which might account for the main timer just clicking through the rinse cycle sometimes without pausing for any motor action? Am I on the right lines?
When you say coming loose, do you mean you suspect the connectors to this module (assuming it is that remotely mounted electronic assembly), or something else – i.e. like it needs replacing?
Also, why do you suspect the manifold, and what actually is that?(!)
I checked the repairmen database and it doesn’t show anything. I’m in Cambridge (CB4).
FWIW, I’m an electrical engineer, but more electronics than electrical, and know a lot more about PCs than I do about washing machines. I might tackle this repair myself if it’s largely a case of cleaning and reseating a connector and swappind some brushes, but if thre’s anything more than that would otherwise prefer to call the ghostbusters!
What do you reckon – DIY or repairman, and, if so, any names?
Thx
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