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“I changed the plug to a different socket and then it crackled and still didn’t work” Do you mean the machine crackled or the plug crackled ( does the actual plug smell )? If the latter replace the plug and make sure none of the wires are / look damaged plug end – just stick on a new 13amp plug and try that. Or if you mean the actual machine crackled then did nothing other than the panel lights remained on? Or did not even come on?
Thx for the model, sorry for the late reply. Well as far as I can tell there is nothing weird or wonderful ref the parts that make-up your machine`s model. So the only I think you can do is as suggested with fingers X`d. You have no doudt checked how the machine is plumbed out – if the end of the outlet pipe is connected to an under the sink nozzle ( common ) it worth while checking the end of the o/let hose and the nozzle for a wedged button that can turn to restrict pump out so a bit like an analogy to a butterfly choke on a bike carb restricting air flow.
Hi. What is the make and model number (in full) please. So long as the machine is not a washer dryer, so long as the machine is pumping out fine, and by the sound of things it is. This is what I have done on my second hand 18 year old owned by me for 16 years Hotpoint: doing boil washes alone even with washing detergent does not always work SO I use 1 box of Aqua Softna descaling crystals, you might whant to initially hit the machine with 2 boxes 1st, ( Aqua Softna which is not the same stuff as Soda crystals which is mainly used to shift grease type problems in sinks / drains and if used in a very high concentration to water ratio can affect the aluminium spider sometimes not in a good way! ) mixed with 3 to 4 CAP fulls of liquid lemon Flash. DO NOT MIX THESE 2 THINGS WITH BLEACH. Because we do not know the make or model I would go about this thus: set the machine to a 60 degree or + long cottons wash, press start and allow the machine to fill ( there are NO clothes in the machine ) when the machine has reach its water level open the soap draw sprinkle in ya crystals add the cap fulls of Flash and with a jug of water flush the whole lot into the machine. The trouble with modern machines is that the wash water levels are set too low so what I do even on my 18 year old machine is to add another 6 liters of water manually via the soap draw. All a bit of a faff but I know it works for me. Caversham, where I live, has medium hard to very hard water depending which part of Caversham! All the tank and drum is is a container but over time you can get a thick layer of snow white lime – which is rarely seen these days due to lower washing temperatures and sloppy sludge ( very common ) which ranges in colour from a darkish brown, creamy brown, cream, to even an `oribble orange colour mixed with either no lime or with lime which deposited itself under the actual drum holes, rear of the tank, within the lattice of the aluminium bearing spider AND between the gap front of the drum and rear of the door seal. This suggestion is worth a go.
did you lubricate the seal ? No, but I will this time. Well that is why the bearings got nuked so quick. Best grease to use is transparent silicon based grease for oil seals. I would not recommmend using car multipurpose grease on oil seals, open cage bearings themselves yes but not on rubber.
What you really want to be careful is the condition of 2 other things 1) the plastic rear half tank`s oil seal hole and 2) the condition of the bearing spider running hub`s phosphor bronze ring. 1) if the new press fit oil seal is loose in its hole you are on a hidding to nowhere and no matter what you have done, grease or otherwise, will get you nowhere for obvious reasons. If the oil seal is very slightly loose you could try a good glue and x your fingers if it all looks a hopeless case you are into new rear tank mode which is either expensive or possibily obsolete – I have not checked though. Also look for a common LG problem of hair line cracks in the plastic tank radiating out from the bearing tube. All these issues relate, usually, due to when the first set of bearings failed due to a) pure bad luck and b) the machine being thrashed into oblivion with noisy nuked disintergrated bearings ( usually the case! ) 2) If so usually the bronze ring gets scored by bits of bearings and if so you will be back to square one within a few months so watch out for that one too.
Hopefully given the contraption lasted a couple of years after your new first set of bearings were replaced and so based on that I`d say it was down to just lack of lube.
As a bit of public information a great many bearing changes I have done over the years, and premature bearing failure is very common whether a sealed tank or a dismantleable tank but it is more commonly seen in the former. Having time on my hands these days I have over the last couple of years taken home those offending sealed tanks and cut them open to see why the bearings failed so soon and I reckon the answer is simply no grease on the oil seal running lip = friction = wear = water ingress = rusted bearings rather than the quality of the bearings; it is just down to how the things are put together in the factory by the bot.
A brief list of 1) sealed tanked machines where bearings cannot be replaced and then 2) machines where the tanks are dismantleable to change spider and bearings without going into costs / parts availability etc…
1) All modern Hotpoints, Indesits, Hoovers, Candy, Zanussi, AEG, Electrolux, Whirlpool, Maytag (?) and Beko. As a point I think the Beko tanks are longer lasting than Hotpoint, Indesits and some AEG and Whirlpool but that is not a scientifically done test.
2) All the Vestel made stuff from Turkey, everything so far seen that is Korean, Chinese, Thia made, so that is Samsung, Lg, Haier, Sovereign, Bush, Royale, Montpellier, Pro Action, Electra, Sharp and several others….please feel free to add to either list if you want to.Do not know the answer to that one there are no wiring diagrams available my end to check and even if there was one it would be vague. Strange and rare fault I grant you, can only suggest going for p/swt and at 18 quid, or maybe less, could be worth a shot considering the expense of the pcb just fitted other than that sorry no other ideas.
Had the same fault on a Hotpoint last month and I was beginning to think it was the pcb. I went for the pressure switch instead and that cured my problem. Your part number for a new pressure switch is Bosch part number 00627460 @ £18.67
What is the product number please as there are several versions, begins with 91?????? sometimes ending with a /??
As a rough guess what you want to do first is to try the machine on a normal 40 degree wash to check the level so you can discount that the cause is to do with 90 degree programme before doing anything more. Usually overfilling should occur whatever fill programme you set the machine on and if so as is likely the air trap will most likely be blocked or rather part blocked. find the pressure switch and trace down its thin hose to under the machine and that is the air trap. Also check that thin hose too for pin prick hole where it might have rubbed on the tank – common. You might want to check the motor brushes have not worn out too, at 12 years old that would not be surprising one jot.A pure buying gamble either way! You can pay through the nose on a brand new up market machine that lasts until the cost of repair does not become cost effective and that can actually happen very quickly i.e. just out of warranty! Or you can buy a new cheaper appliance and they can last 12 years or longer it depends on what the make the machine is and, above all, it is based on pure luck.
Buying up-market secondhand machines can net you the worlds greatest bargain of 2021 ( least in UK ) for not that much money ( new or newish but secondhand appliances that for whatever reason that become suddenly on the secondhand market sell at a small fraction of their original purchase cost though I do know that is not always the case in some countries, maybe yours but I would not know although I do know that repair costs especially abroad can be very high compared to UK ( which are themselves high enough as it is! ) or on the other hand you could end up paying over the odds and buying a second hand citrus special that is going to cost big money to repair with no come back what-so-ever. Impossible question to really answer irrespective of what brand the machine/s happen to be.Thanks. “I would much rather pay more for a well built but simple machine if I knew it was going to last.
I am going to be in this dilemma soon with my dishwasher, as my current Bosch (a mere 21 years old, bless it) is looking like it will soon need to be retired. Looking at current models I’m struggling to find a simple but robust machine”A list little list of observations
Dishwashers, hmm. Well all I can tell you is that I gave up most dishwasher repairs irrespective of make/brand having had so many new replacement part failures and the worst between ages 2 to 8 years old was….Bosch with the very common e09 heater failure. Even the Curry`s Chinese Essentials was thrice as reliable at half the price – even though I officially gave up on the major players in the dishwasher game I still go out to a couple ( that means 4 ) of Essentials as many are NOT the revamped Indesit redesigned machines but are more akin to some Kenwood designs which are generally much easier to work on. The old SMS – had “ff” in the model code – Bosch dishwashers which were very well made ( not to be confused with the newer dreaded SMS stuff ) were brilliant with a wash motor and the original Sole outlet pumps lasting 25+ years if well looked after, went and repaired one as a special one off repair in March this year – heater failure, officially obsolete but irca still make one that fits. Some newer dishwashers are complex pieces of kit, I`m convinced this is a stupid and unnecessary way to go. I mean how difficult is it to make a poxy dishwasher?
Machines that are built like a tank are sometimes, and strangely, disappointingly unreliable!
One of the best washing machines was a Creda / Hoover hibrid, the one from the very late 70s / 1981 with the sloping instrument panel commonly in brown or light blue ( whereas the ones that came immediately after that series were a pile of junk- mostly early bearing failure and a swine to repair ). That machine was fairly lightly built, as is a Hotpoint WM56, but could last decades until the aluminium backplate rotted out, an AEG motor helped and of course it was all pre microproccessor using a decent grade of electronics instead of the usual cheap rubbish that is so often seen today…..and a lot of those machines are not cheap either.
Wash times. It is trully pathetic the state of affairs these days 220 minutes to do a 40 /60 degree cotton wash you`d be looking at either picking up ya pension pot or even a pine box before the bloody things finish the programme; what are they thinking?
Also washing machine low water levels is not clever! This can adversely affect the bearing /bearing housing by basically never being douced with water to get shot of hardening detergent froth/dirt which then nukes the bearing oil seal. Remember the old Phillips machines from the late 70s with the high water levels that span and pumped out at the same time – very few suffered bearing problems ( or whiffy smells ) because of it.
Basic Beko washing machines = very good very good value with reasonable spares` costs should you need `em. A great deal of them are actually made in China especially the entry level machines which are simple basic good machines with brush motors ( very muchremind me of some Amica Chinese entry level machines but with cheaper spares than Amica`s sense of humour pricing ) without that ridiculous dc module BUT most have long wash programmes BUT some have eco button /speed wash which are ok. Some of the more adventerous Beko models I would not recommend having lost the plot and become gimmicky and overly complex with it.
I refuse to sell machines and even if I wanted to I would hardly be in a position, as a very small trader, to even price match and make any money = totally pointless bothering..
