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Whosh….! Damn it hit the wretched Planet Earth parallel dimension switching button; that`s just typical!
“This will allow for new technology to improve the ratings” yep and with it a whole host of complexity along with it too e.g. V-ZUG`s heat pump WASHING MACHINE which I cannot see too many members of the public tackling one of those things without truly cocking it up. In other words a self defeating idealology within the world of Right to Repair that either will change nothing, or as more than is likely, will make things worse and not better. From my point of view, which in this industry counts for less than the pet cat`s view on, well, anything and everything, the way forward would be a modern revamped version of the hot and cold fill Hotpoint WM56: easy to fix, reliable, reasonable quality ( compared to todays efforts ) even my customers might be able to repair the brute without screwing things up like they are apt to do and if there were only 4 versions on a theme with mostly interchangeable parts that in itself would cut down production costs, cuts down on waste, cuts down on choice and should cut down the price of repairs BUT increases by default the quality due to and based on competition….I can here all the appliance industry boses crying from here and most already have got through 3 boxes of kleenex tissues and that was only by reading to the end of second line above!. That is not 4 versions just by Hotpoint that is only 4 versions by competing manufacturers and their sudsidary companies by law. Should do it for cars too whether petrol, electric, clockwork or rubber band powered. In other words instead of a technological way forward it might be better if everyone took a step backwards and ask what do I really need to successfully wash my clothes and that should the machine fail I can either have a very good chance at a successful home DIYrepair or if not there is the nice repair man / young lady out who knows how to repair it for a reasonable fee.
Repair manuals. The only free to download repair manuals in English I have found are via Chinese manufacturers, so, though I hate to say it, good on them; presently you will not get the time of day out of the vast majority of European manufacturers. In the future I would not put it past some Western European manfacturers to willing produce repair manuals but in the spirit of the new rulings in Medieval Slavic Script ( not quite as helpful as planned ) and as far as is known their is nothing to stop them from doing so.Suddenly we are transported back to our dimension and reality but are we all sure you really want to go back there?
No. What I feel damn sure about is the costs have risen and will continue to rise. I can also foresee the banning of pattern parts so it all comes inline with a New Improved Germany e.g. a non appliance example: Le Citroen AX ignition switch £25 in England in NIG £215…point made. The trade and the public will just be taken for a ride to somewhere they are going to regret!
We were on opposite sides of the fence then Jim as I was into BSA and Triumph 😉
AJS and Jawa myself.
You have got two things wrong friend 1) no such thing listed as a DG612 as far as I can find and 2) an unforgivable posting on the washing machine site. However, taking a rough guess at what we have, which isn`t much, do you hear the wash motor sloshing water through the wash blades noise? If not the wash motor may be jammed = heater comes on, water goes out but not a lot else is going to happen.
judging by the wiring diagram the motor itself appears to be a split phase type ( not capacitor run ) so I would doubt it is the motor itself at fault and more likely to be a transmission problem but of course it is really impossible to say.
Further, this will not unblock, should it be the condenser, as that can only be manually cleaned out. As per my past posts to you. If the Aqua softener and Flash liquid trick does not work the condenser will be where the problem lies. ( if you have discounted the stand pipe and something caught rotting at the bottom of the tank – usually caught around the heater area ). I get the impression you want a simple answer without spending the spons, I think that is probably wishful thinking on your part. Anyway, see what happens if anything.
Here`s a tip. Bearings or no bearings it matter not since you would have to cut the sealed tank in half to remove the drum to change the bearings and oil seal then use some sort of glue or perhaps seaweed and snot and self tappers to bodge the whole plot back together and then phone up your house insurance company to tell them about the resulting flooding disaster… you have not thought it through have you? It is a new sealed tank or a new machine. A sealed tank is a sealed tank. Bad luck.
Well, with normal washer dryers rather than your complex piece of kit your problem is usually one of two things 1) either the condenser third of the inlet valve is not working or it is working but the t`other end of its pipe is blocked where there should be a restrictor of some sort as there looks to be no water restrictor valve in the water inlet valve so it must be at the other end of its pipe i.e. at the condenser end. OR 2) the condenser is blocked-up with fluff which is very common. Power off, back off, start dismantling to check. Note:Do not force anything all the parts on these contraptions are expensive so if a blockaged clean out the condenser. “I believe it is normal for the machine to let water in towards the end of the cycle to clean fluff” would`ve thought this would not be the case on tumble drying for obvious reasons. Doubtful it is a pump out problem given the machine works on wash/rinse/spin
Bosch r/h/side leak due to warpage – more likely due to heat – between plastic base and s/steel tank. SMV40T10GB/28. Repair kit is part number 11038786 not listed on Bosch parts website so phone Bosch to check your model. Kit should be about 26 quid including p&p ( actually given the bloody grief this problem has caused owners it should be free but it isn`t unless under warranty).
is there anything I can do if it is actually the condenser? Or is it just unreachable? No it is not user friendly to remove, do not attempt it. OK this is what I have done on my 18 year old Hotpoint WM56 washing machine I use 1x box of Aqua Softener descaler mixed with 3 to 4 CAP fulls of Flash liquid lemon multipurpose cleaner at 60 degrees every 8 weeks. If you have soft water lay of the descaler and use only 1 to 2 capfulls. Try this firstly twice first month then once next 3 weeks after that and see if anything happens that is positive.
So this thing of yours has had a new pcb and a new pressure switch. Maybe you could check the 3 way water valve. Notice via a picture that one of the nozzles has a blue water restrictor inserted…maybe that has come out and is somewhere caught in its hose though still acting in some way as a obstruction to the in coming condensing water . This would give you excess water in the machine during the drying cycle before the timed/pulse pump mode switches on and so the out come as soggy hot clothes. In other words rather than a pump out problem it could be a fill problem. Can`t really see what else it could really be if on wash cycle it all works ok, so have a look at the valve should be 3 nozzles of which only one – the dryer part of the valve – has a restrictor fitted.
Joshua. The way to tell is to hold the handle, pull it towards you and if from the very instant you feel no reistance in the handle ( via its spring ) that handle is broken – in other words if it has gone all floppy it is nuked. The only way to fix it is a new handle based on a WDAL8640 in white the white door handle as a kit ( new spring rod handle and striker ) part number Hotpoint drawing on their website is J00301358 but the real part number is C00507932 there is also a pattern part too which is a bit cheaper.
You have to remove the door off the machine, remove all the screws holding the door halves together, then prise the inner door from the outer door in order to fit your new handle. Pointer: BUT before you do anything it is wise to get a marker pen and mark 1 line over the inner door plastic frame at the top AND the glass soley as a reference point for reassembling purposes you`ll see why when you do it. The job can be fiddly if you have not done it before. Take a picture before you dissasemble the door.Ignore my last post paragraph “Developments” it was never a demo machine afterall. Conflicting info as is usual!
That is certainly a good pointer. Many thx for going to the trouble.
Developments: I`ve just learnt that apparently this machine has been a demo model in a building site sales development agent`s office, so it all transpires, before it was flogged off cheap to a buyer and because I have not been to see this thing yet I wonder if it is in some sort of special programme mode as a possibility. And if it is then I will have to ask the question how the hell do you get out of it to reset it? If anyone knows the answer please let me know just incase so I can go armed with the necessary info. Thx once again.
