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Re: Zwd16270w1 dryer countdown too fast
Check the thermistor wiring in the lower hose. The wiring can break off. Run diagnostics and see if a relevant fault code appears – usually E60 family of codes. The diagnostics in drier mode shows the temperature of the NTC at the top duct near the heater and then the temperature of the lower hose NTC alternating. Also check heater element for continuity and earth faults – Lux stuff is notorious for drier and wash programs shutting down too early if the drier element has even a small earth fault.
Hope that helps,
Steve.
Re: ISE W288eco squeaky bearing.
Hi Lawrence,
Hope all is well with you and yours!I love the simplicity and cost free essence of that fix, but how does that mechanically sort the problem? Does it lube the seal or move its position……. or what? Intrigued……:lesson: I did the bearings and seals two years ago but what I don’t get is why the new seal squeaks yet the bearings are fine. And just this machine!
Thanks for the tip – these customers are the whingy, persistent folks you wish you’d let go to Curry’s.Cheers,
Steve.
Re: ISE W288eco squeaky bearing.
It’s happening again!! Squeaking away…………. 😡
It squeaks intermittently on wash but spins smooth and quiet. Changed the belt and turned the drum by hand with no belt and still squeaks. The bearings are perfect so is it possible to get a bearing seal separately? Don’t understand why the same machine should be affected twice; it’s not that heavily used.Anyone else had an issue with a squeaky seal? Is there any way to stop it happening again, even if it’s sneaky…..?
Steve.
Re: Bosch D/washer Leaking Into Base – Mystery!
This is an old item I posted a while back – the first two sections are for all newer style (dispenser at the top middle of the door) BSH group dishwashers and the last is for the plastic Polynox base machines.
I’ve managed to crack this problem; done loads; discovered the issues; fixed them……..none come back…all reported working OK. Machines will never leak on short cycles. They will only leak on the hottest longest wash (70 degree intensive) 15 minutes before the end of the cycle. That’s why leaks seem to be impossible to replicate on short test. The cumulative effect of several cycles will eventually trip the safety float switch. 😡 If you want to find the exact location of the leak, remove the plinth, panel behind, both sides and put folded kitchen paper across the entire base tray (easy to do) and run it on 70 intensive – it will leak from the rear left side 90 {e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the time.
Leak location 1. The leak will be on the air vent coming through the left side of the machine.
Drain down and remove all water from the sump and salt compartment. Remove body panels. Remove the air chamber (left side of machine) and clean the vent and lower nozzle (goes through the side of the tank near the salt cap). Reseal with heatproof silicone; the same stuff used for cooker door glass bonding. On inspection, the vent seal is the main culprit as it sits in between the chamber lip and the pressing hole in the stainless tank. It can move around and is rarely tight; in fact any amount of vent tightening will not stop it leaking. To fix it – run a small bead of silicone around the neck of the vent on the plastic chamber and set the seal into it. Then run a further bead around the outside of that seal. Don’t forget to put a token spread around the lower nozzle seal as well. Refit, tighten both the vent and the nozzle – no more leaks.
Leak location 2. Leaks showing around sump joint. Sump screws are always loose.
This loose fitting of the sump can lead to leaks on long hot washes.
Tighten all four screws in a diagonal pattern. It is not unusual to get 3/4 of a turn on each; but don’t force them. Then test with paper in the base tray. If it still leaks, new sump required. The place for leaks on the sump is usually around the diverter valve location; push a slither of paper on top of the ridge above the diverter to detect any water.Leak location 3. Leak showing down the back of the machine from the tank to plastic base joining seal. Seal groove opens up around the back and sides – invariably seeps water into base tray. If you remove the bottom basket you will notice a distinct curve in the right sidewall of the tank; the left side less so.
These machines were the stainless steel tank and grey plastic Polynox base moulded types with the groove that the tank sits in. The screws at the rear corners and on the lower door frame (just in front of the door seal) are always loose. A good repair of the joint seal can be made by thoroughly cleaning out the groove and filling it with heatproof silicone (same as mentioned above) smooth with a wet soapy spatula, pressing it in as you go. The air chamber will have to be removed to fully seal the left side of the tray joint; reseal the chamber as above.
Hope that helps!!
Steve.
Re: HUE61KS HOTPOINT OVEN
IIRC the tags are behind the right hand side panel; you can trace the two wires around to it. Remove one screw that secures it and the element draws out.
Hope that helps!
Steve.
Re: Dishwasher pump status
Diverter valve will transfer water between wash rotors as it washes, pump will run throughout the cycle when machine is full.
Re: Hotpoint SY10X Oven Timer Dead
Thermal cut out fitted to that oven – one shot type. Probably in line from the terminal block to the timer / selector switch.
Hope that helps!Steve.
Re: Beko DW686 dishwasher leaks.
Customer has just come back off holiday so I went back to fit a new
module. Ran perfectly – filled, washed, heated and drained ready to rinse. Then it reverted back to fill, lengthy pause, fill again……..
I am sick of this machine TBH, but it has to be fixed. Any help please…… it’s doing my head in!!Thanks,
Steve.
Re: Beko DW686 dishwasher leaks.
Finally narrowed this very intermittent fault down……. the machine is overfilling! Thinking of BSH stuff, grabbed a flowmeter and fitted it. Machine now fills, stops for about a minute then fills again until after 5 times overfills into the base tray. It is almost like the module starts the program with the pump in the usual way, then fills and then resets itself and fills again. Swapped the flowmeters back over just in case and the old one did the same.
There are no physical leaks anywhere on the machine and the flowmeter made no difference at all. I am thinking the module has failed…… anyone help on this? Has anyone come across this fault before?Thanks in advance,
Steve.
Re: Hotpoint Lft 114 dishwasher
Check the door microswitch as they can get stuck N/C if there has been a spill into the latch slot. Salty or sugary substances are most likely. Unplug the microswitch and try again. Also check float switch if it is running with the door open. Although it is possible in theory for the PCB to be faulty, I’ve never encountered any that run the machine with the door open…. but I have had some strange faults with blown triacs running the pump irrespective of the program selection or progression. Look for split triacs on the board or signs of water ingress.
HTH,
Steve.
Re: Are you busy?
Andy jones wrote:I finally got out of the trade before xmas. Was fed up with price of parts, new machines etc
Was very busy but not making enough money, now doing a job I really enjoy, good money and plenty of holidays etc
( will still keep my hand in on occasions thoughWhat are you doing now? Complete change or related to this trade?
Re: Hotpoint TCFS835 stops.
Thanks for the replies! Model numbers as requested:-
Model:- TCFS835BGP(UK)
Ind Code:- 95901450100.
Serial no:- 611096118.Model:- TCFS835BGP(UK)
Ind Code:- 9590145100.
Serial no:- 611096122.They are both sited next to each other on top of two washers. The room can get a little cold at night, but probably never below 5 degrees as the 2 fridge freezers (next to them) are working fine. (also new). But when the driers are running it can get quite warm in there. (20 degrees). The room is being reconstructed as we had a bad flood and lost most of our appliances in one hit. They were two 1996 Hotpoint TL31’s and they rarely failed. There will be a radiator being fitted in there this week so that should level the ambient.
Only thing I don’t get is why one cut out and the other one was running; the room was warm and now the reverse has happened……….I had thought of ambient temperature but would that cause the machines to shut down completely for around 24 hours – and why one and not the other? Surely as the ambient rises, they should come back on. And surely the warmth of the driers running wouldn’t make them stop as they are usually installed in laundry rooms or kitchens which can get very warm indeed at times.
Also noticed (on both driers) that when the control knob is turned to a program, sometimes the display and beeps take 5 seconds to react; sometimes it is immediate.
Any further thoughts?Cheers,
Steve.
