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Re: What we’ve got here…
Ill add my name to the ‘open to all’ camp for all the reasons above….i just don’t see the point of creating a representative body then excluding part of the people it purports to represent.
Re: Fisher Paydell D/W D6031
Penguin45 wrote:Something large just went plop in your in-box.
Chris.
Never a Gegsy around when you need one eh? 😆Re: AEG Dishwasher switch bank
allan wrote:Hi again Chris, the pnc no. is 91182505900, have tried looking up on connections but cant bring anything up for the part no. any ideas?
Regards AllanYes…take out the dash and the hash 😉
1522385010
Re: The cheek of the bloke!
Penguin45 wrote:
clivejameson wrote:
when they’re dry they stay thereYou’re supposed to “squeegee” the water out from under when you are satisfied with the position (as the actress said to the bishop 😯 ) – then they stick like the proverbial to a blanket.
Chris.
Proverbial what??? 😆
Re: The cheek of the bloke!
bazza500 wrote:
Will check the quality once they arrive.Decent labels, very sticky so don’t touch the adhesive side or you’ll leave your fingerprint permanently visible 😉
If you have trouble positioning them then a good tip is to wet the surface they are going on…you can slide them about until in a neat position and when they’re dry they stay there 😉
Re: my oven is completly dead its a diplomat ahy32
The first thing you need to check is the supply…most have a dedicated isolation switch (big red switch on a white box) which will be somewhere near the oven, if not on the wall then in a cupboard perhaps where they sometimes get inadvertantly knocked and switched off.
Sometimes, single ovens have a conventional plug going into a socket outlet (which again will be somewhere near the oven). If that’s the case you can check the socket by plugging another item into it to see if that works. If it does then you might like to check the fuse in the plugtop, and the wiring while you are there?
Failing the above then it’s time for an engineer really:?
You could try the link below to see if there’s an engineer near you. 😉
Re: The cheek of the bloke!
iadom wrote:
iadom wrote:
Lets put this another way, how many of you would let the bloke who comes to fix your TV put a sticker on it, precious few I’ll wagerI see no one answered this question
Jim.
I’ll answer it Jim, I certainly wouldn’t have a sticker on the telly….it’s a matter of cosmetics. We too use clear vinyl stickers but apply them inside a washing machine door, or on the stainless top edge of a dishwasher door. They look tasteful, business-like and very much like the machine rating plate which is there already.
We generally don’t put stickers on an oven for the same reason…they would get burned off if they were inside the door area, and would look cosmetically ‘orrible on the outside! 😉
Re: Have a go heroes
A case of a little knowledge is a dangerous thing 😀
Had a job a few years back on a Bosch S/L D/W which was apparently sticking on the program. I knocked on the door, it opened but before I could walk in the customer blocked the way and started to explain…
‘I had a look at the machine myself before you came…now i’ve got both pumps here on the floor and they seem fine, the wiring harness i’ve got on the bench in the garage and all the wires seem ok so do you think it might be the timer….I’ve got it here in this box if you’d like to test it?’ 😯
Needless to say I beat a retreat and offered him Appliance Care’s phone number 😆
Re: Bosch SGS43A32GB/01 (D/W)
A good place to start would be the float….situated at about 6 o’clock in the sump under a pull-off cover…often get bunged up and stuck. Make sure there is no condensation in the clear part of the float (new float req’d) and that you put it back the same way up 😉
Any doubts about it then renew it anyway….part no. 188106
HTH?
Re: Bosch SGS5002GB/07 not heating
TBH it’s prolly easier to get to the heater connections and check it that way…lid off, RHS panel off 😉
If you’re having a go yourself don’t forget unplug before doing anything :zap:
Re: bosch 1400 logixx why would door cause electrical proble
The door lock switches all the necessary power through to the ‘business end’ of the machine so it’s more likely there’s a problem elsewhere causing the power to trip when the door lock completes the circuit.
The only way to establish this, and so find the fault is to test it for earth leakage with an insulation tester.
Disconnect before doing anything if you’re having a go yourself. :zap:
