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clivejameson
ParticipantRe: bosch washing machine
The active light doesn’t necessarily react immediately on pressing the start button, the electronics take a brief time to ‘process’ the information and the door lock needs to heat up to lock however if you have lost the motor action then the most likely problem is the motor brushes on these.
Have a look HERE
November 8, 2012 at 1:36 am in reply to: BOSCH WAE24162uk/1 not spinning but not usual suspects !! #384420clivejameson
ParticipantRe: BOSCH WAE24162uk/1 not spinning but not usual suspects
You did put a new set of brushes in???
November 8, 2012 at 1:28 am in reply to: Smeg SUK61MBL8, Door Seal Fell Off, Won’t Re-Attach #384354clivejameson
ParticipantRe: Smeg SUK61MBL8, Door Seal Fell Off, Won’t Re-Attach
Hi LouLou
Smeg door seal are not known for this issue although it can happen occasionally on all makes…if the metal hook is detached then a replacement seal is the only cure.You could try emailing the Store quoting the specific model number?
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: samsung fridge
Definitely needs a new dryer especially if the system was open with a broken pipe for any length of time…and make sure you thoroughly vacuum and flush too to make sure there’s no residual moisture!
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: bosch d/w sgs45c02gb/06
Most likely needs a new flow meter (impellor jug) pt no. 424099 although very occasionally i’ve had poor connections to it (squeeze the connector block to gain tension on the contacts)
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: AEG 445i D/W motor stuck on.
Hi Jim, how’s you?
About the only thing that goes wrong with those is a blockage in the chamber on the LHS…plays havoc with water level control usually because the pressure chamber part of it can’t drain.
It’s impossible to clean the chamber as it’s moulded shut so a new one required…comes as a kit. The old one is moulded onto the sump so it has to be hacksawed(!) off but the kit includes a rubber sleeve and clips to attach it.
Done a few over the years, managed to do it from underneath but if you’ve not done one before the LHS panel off gives better access as there’s a push-on plastic ‘thing’ that braces the chamber against the bottom frame.
Not too bad a job really…
August 8, 2012 at 6:35 pm in reply to: Electrolux dishwasher model number ESL6115 which popped RCD #379117clivejameson
ParticipantRe: Electrolux dishwasher model number ESL6115 which popped
You need to check the diameter of the heater to be absolutely sure as there are two sizes commonly fitted but changing it is simply a case of undoing the clamps each end then reassembling with the new one.
Nothing in there stores a charge so unplugged there’s no electrical hazard…just watch out for those sharp edges.
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: Neff S51T69X1GB Multiple Problems
What you describe sounds like two distinct and separate faults…
1. The dispenser itself is most likely at fault, these machines are not known for loose connections on the pcb so intermittent operation would suggest a mechanical fault with it. They are quite a lightweight mechanism and easily jammed by an incorrectly placed tablet but you’ve obviously ruled that out.
2. Poor performance on the top basket (particularly leaving what looks like grit or black pepper) is a result of not enough water going over the crockery. The first thing to check is that the spray arm is totally unblocked and the holes are open, and that nothing like an air freshener is getting in the way and stopping it rotating…
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: LG Direct Drive plea for help
Sorry…just re-read my post….the stator is the part with the coils, and the hall sensor is mounted to the back of it which is why you will need to remove it to check.
I find it hard to imagine that it’s mounted incorrectly tbh, most likely it or its wiring harness is faulty…
August 6, 2012 at 10:05 pm in reply to: Electrolux dishwasher model number ESL6115 which popped RCD #379114clivejameson
ParticipantRe: Electrolux dishwasher model number ESL6115 which popped
No problem, just be aware there are some sharp edges about when you start removing panels and access to the heater is a bit cramped.
The heater can be checked for earthing with a megger, and if the top arm feed tube is leaking as well then both parts can be obtained HERE
If the parts aren’t listed then wing them an email…
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: AEG Electrolux 16830
£62+vat is about the going rate around here for a total call out and labour charge for a repair so add to that the cost of a solenoid and that’s the total cost.
If you subtract that from the £177(!)you can make a judgement whether 12 months cover is good value for all that extra money.
These machines have a pretty good reputation, often last 8-10 years or more and whilst they’re not the ‘rolls royce’ of machines they certainly are a good average workhorse.
HTH?
August 6, 2012 at 9:30 pm in reply to: Electrolux dishwasher model number ESL6115 which popped RCD #379112clivejameson
ParticipantRe: Electrolux dishwasher model number ESL6115 which popped
We can’t give detailed ‘how to’ instructions (see forum rules)not so much because we don’t know your electrical safety prowess but for anyone else reading an open forum…however i can say the top arm feed tube is a white plastic tube that runs up the outside back right of the tub and fits to a hole on the tub halfway up with a plastic nut on the inside to retain it.
If you take the top basket right out you will see the end of the tube and it’s retaining nut at the back.
If you follow that tube down to the wash pump you’ll see the tubular heater underneath* it.
*edit* On this model i think it’s actually attached to the heater tube…
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: S54T09X1GB/06 F/D 8703
Can’t help with a wiring diagram i’m afraid but IIRC the softener solenoid should be energised while the machine is filling in which case its simply a case of tracking down the loss of neutral to the aquastop…
Does the supply go via the flood switch btw? If so the harness and switch there would be my first port of call, other than that it’s a case of identifying the correct output on the pcb and checking for continuity through the aquastop at the connector there. If that’s ok then it only really leaves the pcb?
HTH?
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: bosch d/w sgs53c12gb/21
I doubt it will be the flow sensor (impellor jug)…most likely the flood float is out of position if it’s been manhandled outside assuming it’s dry underneath of of course.
Other than that i wonder if the son managed to get water on the pcb?
August 6, 2012 at 8:30 pm in reply to: Electrolux dishwasher model number ESL6115 which popped RCD #379110clivejameson
ParticipantRe: Electrolux dishwasher model number ESL6115 which popped
Hello Dean
The most common cause of tripping is the heater which sometimes only shows up when it starts to heat.
Sometimes these leak where the top arm feed tube meets the tub (the mounting nut is loose or the end of the tube is split) and the leak runs down the outside of the tube and straight onto the heater.
Fully isolated while checking of course :zap:
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