clivejameson

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Viewing 15 posts - 91 through 105 (of 1,828 total)
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  • in reply to: bosch washing machine #386126
    clivejameson
    Participant

    Re: bosch washing machine

    The active light doesn’t necessarily react immediately on pressing the start button, the electronics take a brief time to ‘process’ the information and the door lock needs to heat up to lock however if you have lost the motor action then the most likely problem is the motor brushes on these.

    Have a look HERE

    in reply to: BOSCH WAE24162uk/1 not spinning but not usual suspects !! #384420
    clivejameson
    Participant

    Re: BOSCH WAE24162uk/1 not spinning but not usual suspects

    You did put a new set of brushes in???

    in reply to: Smeg SUK61MBL8, Door Seal Fell Off, Won’t Re-Attach #384354
    clivejameson
    Participant

    Re: Smeg SUK61MBL8, Door Seal Fell Off, Won’t Re-Attach

    Hi LouLou
    Smeg door seal are not known for this issue although it can happen occasionally on all makes…if the metal hook is detached then a replacement seal is the only cure.

    You could try emailing the Store quoting the specific model number?

    in reply to: samsung fridge #379383
    clivejameson
    Participant

    Re: samsung fridge

    Definitely needs a new dryer especially if the system was open with a broken pipe for any length of time…and make sure you thoroughly vacuum and flush too to make sure there’s no residual moisture!

    in reply to: bosch d/w sgs45c02gb/06 #379444
    clivejameson
    Participant

    Re: bosch d/w sgs45c02gb/06

    Most likely needs a new flow meter (impellor jug) pt no. 424099 although very occasionally i’ve had poor connections to it (squeeze the connector block to gain tension on the contacts)

    in reply to: AEG 445i D/W motor stuck on. #379208
    clivejameson
    Participant

    Re: AEG 445i D/W motor stuck on.

    Hi Jim, how’s you?

    About the only thing that goes wrong with those is a blockage in the chamber on the LHS…plays havoc with water level control usually because the pressure chamber part of it can’t drain.

    It’s impossible to clean the chamber as it’s moulded shut so a new one required…comes as a kit. The old one is moulded onto the sump so it has to be hacksawed(!) off but the kit includes a rubber sleeve and clips to attach it.

    Done a few over the years, managed to do it from underneath but if you’ve not done one before the LHS panel off gives better access as there’s a push-on plastic ‘thing’ that braces the chamber against the bottom frame.

    Not too bad a job really…

    clivejameson
    Participant

    Re: Electrolux dishwasher model number ESL6115 which popped

    You need to check the diameter of the heater to be absolutely sure as there are two sizes commonly fitted but changing it is simply a case of undoing the clamps each end then reassembling with the new one.

    Nothing in there stores a charge so unplugged there’s no electrical hazard…just watch out for those sharp edges.

    in reply to: Neff S51T69X1GB Multiple Problems #379099
    clivejameson
    Participant

    Re: Neff S51T69X1GB Multiple Problems

    What you describe sounds like two distinct and separate faults…

    1. The dispenser itself is most likely at fault, these machines are not known for loose connections on the pcb so intermittent operation would suggest a mechanical fault with it. They are quite a lightweight mechanism and easily jammed by an incorrectly placed tablet but you’ve obviously ruled that out.

    2. Poor performance on the top basket (particularly leaving what looks like grit or black pepper) is a result of not enough water going over the crockery. The first thing to check is that the spray arm is totally unblocked and the holes are open, and that nothing like an air freshener is getting in the way and stopping it rotating…

    in reply to: LG Direct Drive plea for help #379103
    clivejameson
    Participant

    Re: LG Direct Drive plea for help

    Sorry…just re-read my post….the stator is the part with the coils, and the hall sensor is mounted to the back of it which is why you will need to remove it to check.

    I find it hard to imagine that it’s mounted incorrectly tbh, most likely it or its wiring harness is faulty…

    clivejameson
    Participant

    Re: Electrolux dishwasher model number ESL6115 which popped

    No problem, just be aware there are some sharp edges about when you start removing panels and access to the heater is a bit cramped.

    The heater can be checked for earthing with a megger, and if the top arm feed tube is leaking as well then both parts can be obtained HERE

    If the parts aren’t listed then wing them an email…

    in reply to: AEG Electrolux 16830 #379091
    clivejameson
    Participant

    Re: AEG Electrolux 16830

    £62+vat is about the going rate around here for a total call out and labour charge for a repair so add to that the cost of a solenoid and that’s the total cost.

    If you subtract that from the £177(!)you can make a judgement whether 12 months cover is good value for all that extra money.

    These machines have a pretty good reputation, often last 8-10 years or more and whilst they’re not the ‘rolls royce’ of machines they certainly are a good average workhorse.

    HTH?

    clivejameson
    Participant

    Re: Electrolux dishwasher model number ESL6115 which popped

    We can’t give detailed ‘how to’ instructions (see forum rules)not so much because we don’t know your electrical safety prowess but for anyone else reading an open forum…however i can say the top arm feed tube is a white plastic tube that runs up the outside back right of the tub and fits to a hole on the tub halfway up with a plastic nut on the inside to retain it.

    If you take the top basket right out you will see the end of the tube and it’s retaining nut at the back.

    If you follow that tube down to the wash pump you’ll see the tubular heater underneath* it.

    *edit* On this model i think it’s actually attached to the heater tube…

    in reply to: S54T09X1GB/06 F/D 8703 #378929
    clivejameson
    Participant

    Re: S54T09X1GB/06 F/D 8703

    Can’t help with a wiring diagram i’m afraid but IIRC the softener solenoid should be energised while the machine is filling in which case its simply a case of tracking down the loss of neutral to the aquastop…

    Does the supply go via the flood switch btw? If so the harness and switch there would be my first port of call, other than that it’s a case of identifying the correct output on the pcb and checking for continuity through the aquastop at the connector there. If that’s ok then it only really leaves the pcb?

    HTH?

    in reply to: bosch d/w sgs53c12gb/21 #379065
    clivejameson
    Participant

    Re: bosch d/w sgs53c12gb/21

    I doubt it will be the flow sensor (impellor jug)…most likely the flood float is out of position if it’s been manhandled outside assuming it’s dry underneath of of course.

    Other than that i wonder if the son managed to get water on the pcb?

    clivejameson
    Participant

    Re: Electrolux dishwasher model number ESL6115 which popped

    Hello Dean

    The most common cause of tripping is the heater which sometimes only shows up when it starts to heat.

    Sometimes these leak where the top arm feed tube meets the tub (the mounting nut is loose or the end of the tube is split) and the leak runs down the outside of the tube and straight onto the heater.

    Fully isolated while checking of course :zap:

Viewing 15 posts - 91 through 105 (of 1,828 total)