[electrofix]

ok sent it to you

Dave

[electrofix]

the manual make it seem simple but in real life you have to remove one of the oven cavities

total madness. had on the other day where the door would almost close. managed to get at the outer hinge, and that was a headache. upon inspection i thought the hinge was ok and it was the support plate that was bent. (compares the angle of the are in the closed position with that of the grill door ) so i bent the plate and things got a lot better. could only do one side so was not 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}

Dave

[electrofix]

elements are slways dark at the end

as for the smoke it will stop after it has burnt off, been to a few

Dave

[electrofix]

the element assembly consists of 2 elements primary and secondary. so to speak. the primary is used all the time and the secondary is switched in for high heat
it sounds like the second element is not switching in or is faulty

Dave

[electrofix]

front comes off

have emailed service manual

Dave

[electrofix]

check the type of power supply on the main board

if its a capacitor type change it

fault sounds like mother board is running out of power if more than one thing is required. beep is most likely board stalling and crashing

Dave

[electrofix]

kaibart wrote:So what is wrong with it

as in the title E08

for me as with a lot of faults first disconnect heater and see if things change

fault code says its a tacho fault so check wiring back to board

Dave

[electrofix]

there must be other light lit
the critical ones are the programme progress lights

I would check the fan motor and heating element first

Dave

[electrofix]

https://www.robotroom.com/Faulty-Capacitors-1.html

if you find any then you get the correct value ( uF and voltage) and solder in new ones taking great care to solder them in the correct way round as they are polarity concious

Dave

[electrofix]

difficult to say what it could be

model no you quote seems to be wrong as i get GTN39250GCW

but there seems to be 2 versions depending on commecial code wich is either 7188289890 or 7188283060

when it stops does it goes completely silent or is there still some noise ?

if it still makes some noise its poss motor if not it does sound like the board.. If its been plugged on for 5 years you might find domed capacitors on the board which may well cause this

Dave

[electrofix]

ok describe fault exactly and post your model no

Dave

[electrofix]

2uF does sound about right for a cooker hood motor

If the cap has gone the motor will try to turn when energised and may run if given a push

if there is no power going to the motor you need to look elsewhere

Dave

[electrofix]

at the bottom of the dryer is the float and a pump that pumps the water to the draw. if this pump fails the water fills till the float lifts and operates a switch that brings the full light on and stops the dryer to prevent flooding

you need to find and check this pump and area for fluff build up etc

could be

pump failure
excess lint build up blocking ducts or pump
blocked tubes from pump to draw
electronic board failure

Dave

[electrofix]

if there is moist air leaking out the dryer and the floor is cold it will condense on it leaving a puddle

Dave

[electrofix]

wont be your fault its just a noisy pump bearing

if you change the pump it should stop

Dave

[Author]

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