[electrofix]

correct

did you check the coil of the old motor ?
is it open circuit

just trying to work out if its an electrical or mechanical problem

Dave

[electrofix]

well i dont want any of my appliances connected to the net

Dave

[electrofix]

not my area of expertise but did find a tech manual

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1836095/Samsung-Rs68n-Series.html

Dave

[electrofix]

ok
what arrived today , i assume a new motor , where did you obtain it from ? and did it give a voltage ?

you will never turn these by hand as its geared inside

Dave

[electrofix]

ok pump is fed live and gets a neutral in one of 2 ways

1 through the overflow sw
2 from the board when pump triac is operated

first thing i would do is disconnect the overflow sw just to eliminate and try it

assume the house has an RCD on the mains power so if fault was caused by a neutral short the trip would blow but double check not only for a trip but neutral shorts

after that its going to probably be faulty triac. they often half fail and give 110 volts which you can check with a multimeter across pump

you can also check for slugs as the little devils get everywhere

if its a triac they can be swapped if you can solder small items

Dave

[electrofix]

ok all you can do now is try to get to the back of it and try to move the hook by hand
am thinking the door latch mech may be faulty. Hope its not as its complete door £200

you can remove the front of the machine and it will come away and hang on the door rubber but give you enough room to get at the hook and push it

or you could just take lid off and see if there is any way to get it from the top

dont forget to unplug unless you want curly hair

Dave

[electrofix]

well your model is incomplete and if you miss FA off the end i get 29 machines

my best guess would be a board triac short but with correct model can look at proper tech

Dave

[electrofix]

do you have the model no

normally inside the door but often repeated on the back seeing as you cant open it

will start Enr

Dave

[electrofix]

make sure your using the manual release properly. pull and hold release with one hand and open door with the other

also have you checked child lock is not engaged

Dave

[electrofix]

well the switch mode power supply is the one part of the board you normally can repair but the repair price is nothing short of silly

there are normally 2 power supplies on the board one for standby and one for when its operating. the stanby supply is normally one chip and cost about £3

Dave

[electrofix]

sounds good to me

Dave

[electrofix]

HotDog wrote:Thanks think I have misunderstood the fault code as heater I call the the tank metering tank these parts keep changing there names fortunately I didn’t have to buy a motor/heater had a spare one

yes its a heat exchanger as it fill with cold water just before the end of the wash allowing some of the wash heat to warm it and save energy

Dave

[electrofix]

well Aswo list clock below for above model

you can see relay on the left

join wires together or check they are same voltage when live and set

Dave

[electrofix]

kaibart wrote:Is the top right door slightly adjar as in the repair manual it’s a cavity out job from what I remember

some of them are as they have basically stitched 2 single ovens together making the middle hinges hard to get at

Dave

[electrofix]

kaibart wrote:only thing I can’t check is the clock

you can ,l look for the relay contacts on the clock and bridge then or measure across it as it should be 0v when energised and time set

Dave

[Author]

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