[electrofix]

my understanding of the flame failure device is it lets a small amount of gas flow till it warms up and then opens to allow full flow

since you say you have no flow it could be other things. If the unit has a clock that allows you to automatic cook that will stop the oven
also some ovens have an electrically driven solenoid that can fail

but most of these components as K says have to be fitted by gas safe engineers who will test not only your cooker but the safety of you gas system

Dave

[electrofix]

the way it is configured it could be back filling

re arrange the pipe so they go above the sink outlet and come down to it.

Dave

[electrofix]

connect seem to have the original switch made by gottak

put the above model in the search bar

Dave

[electrofix]

ok
double check the ntc values. the front one has a lower value. the rear one has a different value depending on make for some reason

element NTC
Emerson 77J 15.981 ohm @ 25°C
Ekinler MEKN50000005 19.500 ohm @ 25°C

door NTC 12.000 ohm @ 25°C

can send you the manual if needed but need commercal code as there are 2 dryers with similar model no’s. Avove is taken fron commercial code 7182481740

Dave

[electrofix]

ok all the ones i looked at that seemed similar list 2 cut in stats (one for oven and the other on top oven both in parallel) for the fan plus the grill controls brings it in as well

the most comprehensive list of parts is on connect but shows no stats

your only option is to trace the wires back and see where they go

Dave

[electrofix]

on some cookers there is a contact on the switch behind the knob that brings on the fan and then the thermal switch cuts in later to keep it going

have had them fail

there will be another letter on the end of the model as am getting about 5 cookers from above. if you have commercial code it would help

not got manual on above but at home should have manuals on similar hotpoint branded units. will look later as they are at home

Dave

[electrofix]

when you say you replaced the lead and plug is it a moulded plug on the new lead
if yes suspect that till you prove otherwise
you would have to do a continuity check on the lead after it fails

Dave

[electrofix]

with the older screwed doors you had to leave the screws slightly loose and then close the door and twist it till its even. then carefully open the door and tighten a few screws and check it again. if all well tighten them all

As said before its often necessary to warm new door seals to soften them to allow them to stretch to seal

Dave

[electrofix]

if its 40v you have no real chance of getting a new motor

even if its 240v AC it may be difficult as these motors maybe common but the output shaft can change between models. I get round it by keeping used motors to allow me to strip them and swop the internal parts

suggest you measure the voltage again and see what you get

Dave

[electrofix]

had a few of these where the motor had dropped and caused the rear fan to rub on the fan housing

there is no cure. motor mounts only come with motor and did not know if it was chassis that has warped. both customers decided to scrap it

Dave

[electrofix]

ok check your email

Dave

[electrofix]

yes as a short test you can use an extension lead. make sure its rated at least 10 amp and unwound

the way you are talking all the power goes off the machine ( no lights at all) for about 60 secs

does sound like a power issue. as soon as the heater comes on the power drawn by the machine heats something up that switches off the power

this can be internal or external to the machine , could even be the plug on the lead. have you checked that for signs of getting hot ?

Dave

[electrofix]

if the door is twisted it wont seal properly

you could warm the seal to see if it stretches

Dave

[electrofix]

https://www.miele.co.uk/c/spare-parts-and-accessories-24.htm

click full spares catalogue

Dave

[electrofix]

most of these motors are 240v but not all but its a very small amount

the output shaft changes from unit to unit

Dave

[Author]

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