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you are correct the modern unit does not have anywhere near the quality. it is in real terms a lot cheaper which is why it wont last
Dave
bit long winded but you can copy it line by line into google translate
first line reads
This document describes the execution methods of the test cycle present on the 4th generation of timers electronics for fully integrated dishwashers with LED display.
Dave
i assume each knob will have an electrical contact that activates the ignition system
the AEG spares shop is here
After that we cant help as working on gas appliances is covered by laws and only gas safe engineers can work on them
Dave
no problem
let me have your email add
E50 is still a motor problem on dryers
looks like an inverter unit. had one with a similar problem, ended up being the inverter board power supply gone. replaced power supply chip and it was fine
Dave
yes quite normal
the fans are more efficient in one direction so it only reverses enough to untangle things
DaveI realise this is not your dryer but i suspect the motor and heater system will be the same. for heater just ignor its gas as the heater switch in the motor just operates the element instead of a gas valve
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/61…page=21#manual
you can see motor wiring on page 21
DaveSWERV wrote:It does list a not resettable thermal fuse on the parts list. Is this different to the one on the front of the heater duct?
not as far as I know.
Dave
well motor is the first place to check
nothing happens on this unit till the motor starts. the heater wont switch on till the motor is revolving and the cetrifugal switch activates
also double check the belt break switch
Dave
Tony R wrote:Electrofix is almost correct, a heavy accumulation of ice on the freezer coil is likely to be your issue, if the freezer sensor notes it is not at the correct temperature the control circuit will shut off the refrigeration via the solenoid valve to the fridge until the freezer gets to temperature. If it cannot due to the ice build up then the fridge can get to room temperature.
Remove the drawers and inspect for any excess frosting on the freezer rear wall panel, place the frozen food in another freezer and unplug the unit for 2 days, after this remove the single fixing screw at the bottom centre of the panel and you should then be able to pull off this panel from the bottom up.
Clear any left over ice on the now visible coil with a hair dryer on medium heat, ensure the melt water flows down the drain hole, add boiling water via a cup to clear any ice in the drain if required.
When you refit the rear panel make sure the fan guard clips behind a small plastic ridge at the top, main reason for excess ice build up is drain blockage or most likely the freezer door was left slightly ajar, if slammed shut too firmly it can bounce open enough to allow air to enter but not open wide enough for the door open alarm to sound if fitted.Thanks Tony always appreciate your input
Dave
ok think about it
the machine will cost you £419 out of that you are paying £100 vat so your actually paying £319 for the machine
out of that the retailer has to make a profit, its got to be transported half way round the world. Bosch to have the money to build and maintain a factory to design and build it. they have to pay employees to make it. they have to have money put aside for research and development. that have to make a profit to pay sharholders
how much is left to actually buy the raw materials to make it ?
This machine has a sealed tub in common with a lot of machines, this means any problems in the tub and its scrap. On the plus side the door does seem to show seperate components which means you dont have to buy a complete door if you snap the hingeto also be fair this is not entry level as its a series 4 machine, The series 2 are lower. if you want to look at another series 4 unit look at the WAN range which has a splittable tub if that interests you
this might also interest you
Dave
spaceship9876 wrote:bosch has some new entry level machines such as this 7kg 1400rpm: WAJ28001GB
This has a B energy rating, the previous entry level model had a D rating.
beware entry level means cost cut to the bone to get the price down and that includes cheaper working parts
Dave
you say you turn ot off for 12 hours plus but dont say how long the plus is
the normal way is plug out, door open , 2 days. that way all the heavy ice has time to melt. ifr its not long enough it wont clear completely
the fridge gets its cold from the frezer via a duct. there are 2 ducts and both have to be clear of ice for it to work
if its frosting up it could be
door seal problem , defrost heater failed or a blocked drain duct in the freezeralso this fridge is made by Leibherr who make all Miele refrigeration as far as i know
Dave
