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Bellybumble wrote:Thanks Electrofix. I found this on Whitegoods parts and my model is listed, I thought this was the right one?
00747538 Washing Machine Inner Door Frame (ukwhitegoods.co.uk)
door frame is listed for models
WM14S496GB/38, WM14S496GB/45, WM14S496GB/50, WM14S496GB/54, WM14S496GB/57but not
WM14S496GB/07it might fit but you cant be at all certain
Dave
catch seems no problem but door frame for your model does not seem to be listed as a spare
Dave
E-Nr service assistant for home appliances | Siemens Home (bsh-group.com)
Damag wrote:Many thanks Dave, that makes sense. I couldn’t see how the front part of the cabinet could be removed without everything collapsing :o.
Could you clarify the following for me:
1. The drum comes out with the weights still attached as they are not accessible for removal?
2. If the spider is damaged, is it game over as there is no replacement available?
3. In the event that all is well with the spider are the following parts the ones I need in addition to the bearings and the grease:
https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/1240159036-zanussi-other-washer-washer-dryer-tub-seal
https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/zn0803-aeg-zanussi-other-washing-machine-drive-belt?Thanks again
1 correct
2 yes if you cant find one and its damaged then its dead
3 belt yes that should fit or the gen one https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/1240210102-washing-machine-drive-belt
seal is correct oneDave
whats the model and pnc number of your machine
you can check the valve coils with a multi meter if you have one. expect around 3 to 5000 ohms
Dave
the only part that may cause a problem is the drum spider. the way you are talking the bearings have well gone so you may have already damaged the spider which is obsolete
bearing kit
https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/zn05…aring-seal-kitthis should be correct but you will also need seal lubricant as the non gen kits dont have it
https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/univ…sealant-grease
these units are not too bad to work on. the back of the cabinet should come off on one peice leaving the rest of the machine hanging on the front half
you can then remove the motor and all hoses connected to the drum plus heater wiring etc. disconnect shock absorbers
take careful of where the top springs attach both to the drum and chassis as the is more than one place they can fit
I then use strong wire or similar threaded under the top springs to unhook and gently lower the drum out. once out you can lay it on its back and dismantle the bolts to split it
the one bolt you may have problems with is the bolt holding the pulley onDave
they may not do that as a lot of manufacturers do this. the deal is normally if you call them out you pay for labour but parts are free. But you cant get free parts unless they fit them
Dave
From what I can see this model seems to have a 5 year guarentee ( need to check in the manual)
How old is it ?
Dave
from what i can see C37 0178 is the programming code
Dave
quote
“The last three digits of the software code (number shown on the display), in this case “178”,
indicates the level of modification and may undergo other variations, but keep the Control Units interchangeable with the previous ones with the same code.”found this. its not in english but that should not pose a problem with google these days
Dave
M_K wrote:Thanks – what does that mean in terms of fixing it? Would the compressor need replacing?
if it does it will cost an arm and a leg and its a job for a professional refrigeration engineer
first off you need to check if its running ie being powered up or not
Dave
your dryer is a heat pump dryer and uses a fridge compressor to basically de-humidify the washing
so no heater as the only heat in the system is waste heat from the compressor
Dave
