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gandh1
ParticipantRe: hotpoint wma42p control pcb interchangeability
Suedehead, im finding it difficult to see your point?
Where possible, obviously we will always fit new spares if we are doing a repair ourselves, especially in the case of safety spares like thermostats and cut-outs.
Occasionally, in the case of a motor, or pcb – where the new part replacement cost would be uneconomic, we will sometimes offer the customer an option of a secondhand spare if the machine is worth working on, but not worth shelling out £100-200 on parts… as a shot to nothing. In these cases if it doesnt work, we havent paid anything for the parts, so we write the labour off, if it doesnt work and the customer then replaces it with a new machine supplied by us. IF it works, which has been the case on the several times we have done it, the customers have been over the moon.
The thing is that we have always been 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} transparent with our customers – theyve only had a used part if we’ve offered it, so we’ve never once claimed a used part was new, or that its a certainty it will work either! So its always been a last resort…
In the case of some machines, servis for instance, you cant always even get new spares. To condemn a washing machine that otherwise works because fo example the handle is broken and door trim is no longer available is not only unfriendly to the environment, customers will often be in disbelief that a part is obsolete, thinking you are just saying that in order to sell them a new machine.
I really dont want to get into an argument, but for instance in this case the customer comes in and says they dont wish to spend more than £50 on sorting it out, where the pcb has blown, but also dont want to buy a new washer, because they are having a new fitted kitchen in 6 months time.
Surely its the customers choice whether they buy a used pcb (and new interlock) or not?
gandh1
ParticipantRe: hotpoint wma42p control pcb interchangeability
Oh, ok, see what you mean. In the mean time while i sort that out if anyone wants to pm me 🙂
gandh1
ParticipantRe: Indesit WD11 Door Handle Replacement
iadom wrote:It just a broken door handle, no wiring involved.
you misinterpreted me iadom 🙂
i didnt mean there was any wiring involved – i was merely pointing out the sort of situations where taking a pic is a useful backup to have like door handles, replacing a pcb, when you need to match up a part but cant take it off the machine etc…! its a very handy feature 🙂
gandh1
ParticipantRe: Indesit WD11 Door Handle Replacement
if you have a decent cameraphone if its a latch /wiring connection / etc ive never come across before i always take a picture of it prior to pinging bits out.
gandh1
ParticipantRe: Bosch WFO 2260 Wont Spin
L1ARR wrote:
makes a horrible noise when you put it on the spin cycleplease describe more specifically 😕
if only cos i would say celine dion singing is a horrible noise, but not heard a washing machine like that before….
scratchy? scrapey? whiney? clunky? brapppy? mechanically buzzy? electrically fizzy? shingly? rubbly?(sp)does the pitch change, is it high or low, and how frequently does the noise repeat…
gandh1
ParticipantRe: Hotpoint WD860 – F-04 error?
think u need to get iadom on this 🙂
gandh1
ParticipantRe: Diplomat ADP3850 seems to be dead
£50-60 for timer, so not cheap, but not as expensive as others!
gandh1
ParticipantRe: tumble dryer
paddy,
sounds like you have a cic60/01-(37616489)
heres a few things you can do whilst waiting for a reply from the main forum gurus… who may tell you otherwise…
firstly turn off and unplug. you say you took the top off, i know it sounds glaringly obvious, but did you check for a belt? if there isnt one that might be your answer, but if the belts gone theres usually a reason! (normally bearings or/and jockey wheel jamming)
if belt is present and tight on the drum, drag the dryer out, turn on and feel the back of the “L” panel (without unscrewing anything) after 30 seconds it should start to get warm on the back panel but dont run it for too much longer or u might blow the stats if it is getting warm. in theory the internal fan would push the hot air into the drum but not necessarily enough to be noticeable. this will tell u if the machine has a workign heating circuit… OBVIOUSLY DO NOT put your hand anywhere inside the carcass!
if the belt is ok and it gets warm on the back, a rather common failure on hoover/candys is the relay pcb, or occasionally the capacitor on the motor. because the capacitor stores a charge that boosts the motor to overcome the initial inertia of the drum, the capacitor can only really be checked by motioning the drum without the aid of the motor whilst its switched on. for safetys sake this shouldonly be done by an experienced repair engineer. if the drum still doesnt turn, its likely to be the relay.
pcb relay is about £15
8uf capacitor is approx £10gandh1
ParticipantRe: Washing Machine
http://www.white-westinghouse.co.uk/spr … /WD602.htm
so yeah penguin is absolutely right, aka a fagor fu-6116it. was also built for baumatic as a btwm5without inspecting the machine its hard for anyone to say – fagor stock is usually built pretty well… but if it was something simple i would have imagined it would have thrown up an F** or C** error code. not aware of any “resets”, as such, on fagors. and if for example the doors not shut yes it would stop it from working but F04 would also appear on the digital panel…
apart from that its quite easy to inadvertantly activate the time delay on these, which would obviously render the machine inactive for however many hours…
however i do also know one of my trade customers had a contract with housing association to look after an entire block of flats which had a series of identical problems with some of these fagor-built machines fitted to them. it affected the ones that came with a selni-motor, where the carbon brush casings had melted/mis-shapened. they were all new at the time, and supplied with the kitchen. this was approx 15 months ago. and were just outside of 12month warranty when they all went wrong.
gandh1
ParticipantRe: Hotpoint WD860 – F-04 error?
did you clean out further down the hose between the “tennis ball” and pump?
gandh1
ParticipantRe: Haier washing machine model HW-c1460Tue
Google “JTM” im pretty sure its them who now have the exclusive service spares contract for HAIER,
But do you really want to to buy a £100 pcb for a £200 chinese washer thats failed prolly within 2years?
gandh1
ParticipantRe: Which Vacuum Cleaner?
sebo x4 has bigger bags as you said, but if you do a lot of stair cleaning hteonly flaw of the x4 (over the k3) is the fact the wandhose comes out of the top of the vac not the side/bottom like it would with a cylinder/dyson!
gandh1
ParticipantRe: Bosch hotplate tripping RCD
id like ot add weigh to spin doctors comment, if the difference between a repair and (similar quality) replacement happens to be less than £50 my company always reccomends replacing. unknowingly to most customers manufacturers spares only tend to come with a 3 month gurantee. so a 12 month guarantee for an extra £50 over total cost of a repair is more than recommended!!!
gandh1
ParticipantRe: Zanussi ZWD1680 error e20 and more problems
Penguin45 wrote:What are you talking about?
Pull the plug, tip the machine back to a good, stable angle and do it from underneath. You can either release the locking lug and remove the pump as an assembly, or you deal with the three screws holding the pump motor in place in situ.That is exactly what i would do. Because I have done it before. I felt it would be safer not to recommend to someone who didnt know to not tip the machine on its rhs to tip it on its back whilst underneath it. I was erring on safety of the user.
Penguin45 wrote:
A suitable replacement pump motor unit is available through the shop@ facility on the site for between £10 and £15 depending on model.Yes and it would be a pattern, which your website recommends your customers to avoid. as far as i am aware the pattern spares that are available to me would be the same askoll ones that zanussi would supply but there isnt a pattern one from my supplier listed for this model, only an oem one! i didnt know whether your spares shop would supply a patten one Hence quoting the rough price range of the Zanussi genuine pumps
gandh1
ParticipantRe: Zanussi ZWD1680 error e20 and more problems
TheSpinDoctor wrote:It sounds like where it was tipped over some water has got somewhere it should not have.
!
snap… i had a gut feeling cos access to the pump is so awkward on these… lying it on the RHS appears to be the obvious route for DIY repairers, so dont feel down about it viking. but it would be a shame if it has written the machine off… for future reference, if the machine is still serviceable, for DIY repairs on these zanussis you would be better advised taking half the outer shell casing off instead. its not as hard as it appears either!
Also its worth considering if the pump has burned out it could affect the program operation too. new pumps arent cheap – zanussi ones are about £40-55 so you would want to make sure its fine before ordering one!
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