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Re: Indesit iS60V Tumble Dryer
ive since found something even better, the round cross sections often cause the belts to stick too much, so now use an L-cross section runner support from an old b/u d/o and hook that over the motor, it also has the ability to flex slightly, so your not stressing the motor pinion quite so much
Re: siemens wdi1440gb/04 motor upgrade / carbons positioning
hey martin, machine is as clean as a whistle, and when i went out to it, i thought yippee, belt thrown or blocked filter, as it wasnt spinning… so first thing i did was look for blocked pump sump filter & p/sw tubes. waste is on a standpipe and not kinked. admittedly havent looked inside waste hose but spose its possible its blocked? will check that out when i go back with motor.
defo not over used – middle aged couple, max 3 loads a week.machine looks pristine…
And on your primary/reverse rotation theory then no matter what direction the motor rotates there will always be one ‘leading edge’ carbon and one ‘trailing edge’ carbon
oh i know that, my concern was that watching the motor during the spin cycle to bed in the carbons, it was noticeable the fast spins were always in the same direction of rotation, and reverse actions were always slower, but as per diagram the slow ones seemed to “go with” the chamfer and fast spins go against it. its nagging at me because wen i looked at an amica with a leaky solenoid dripping over the motor, i remember watching the opposite happen to the motor, where the fast spins would “go with” the chamfer. does this make sense? also it didnt make the screeching scratching sound when bedding in, more a clack clack clack sound…
its just assuming the waste isnt blocked, i get the feeling i havent sourced the reason for the carbons to have overheated, and as this has been a sod of a job, really dont want to be going back in a years time with the same issue.
Re: Steam Generator iron pump: Morphy Richards Jetstream 477
ken m/r are pita’s as far as any repair is concerned. spare parts are basically limited to consumables. something to do with the contract with the chinese manufacturing plant, in order to keep costs down, its cheaper for them to replace a whole unit at cost, than pay for the sorting, packaging, and storage of even just a handful of the numerous parts that make it up. fact that the common electrical failures like switches cables etc can be sourced from other brands or independantly.
have tried on numerous occasions to get parts for their vacs and steam gens and all end with the same response, if its out of guarantee, they will offer a discount off list price if you deal direct with them, in orde to keep you as a customer. if its in warranty and the retailer cannot replace. they will replace from stock or replace to same or higher spec upon proof of purchase. its good from customer service point of view, and to be fair, m/r are good company to deal with as a retailer, due to their relatively quibble free 2 year p&l warranty on brand new perfect goods…
if it helps we did manage to repair a m/r steam gen using tefal stats, iirc, but not advisable unless you know what your doing. but to be honest steam gens these days dont seem to see out more than 2-3 years at most, so it might be worth budgeting for half of one every 2 years, and make sure you get one with a 2 year guarantee, and not off the internet, if you let your local independant know what your upto with it, they will look after you way better than any robert dyas or currys or net-refurb company will
Re: German made Bosch/ Siemens /Neff apliances
good luck finding a black one then cos the nw90do only comes in s/s and white. no black im afraid… 😕
if you want black try the n/w’s bigger brother, the british built belling bi90fp / bi90mf
Re: Range Cooker – which size?
and the parts are actually quite affordable when you need them.
personally id stick a 110 in there – more choice and better oven space, and lose the single width wine cooler that kitchen designers seem to love poking into their designs 🙂
Re: Neff b1420
when this has happened on the odd occasion to us, and has also baffled us, only conclusion we have come to is expansion/contraction through heat…
i.e. as element heats up, it expands, whereby more prolonged heating expands it further, stretching the insulation so a hairline split allows a short to earth. hence short bursts of heating say to 80-150* as you have experienced seem to work fine, because it hasnt been hot long enough to expand. however, if you look at the element youll almost always spot a “floppy” bit or slightly bloated
Re: AEG l16830 PNC 91460212201 dryer fault
alster, you need to clear stored fault codes in the diagnostic cycle, and then run through the whole diagnostic test routine, to ascertain next fault code. full instructions on connectS mediaTOR…
dryer elements always suspect on these, unusual for it to be the ntc at fault.
Re: Hotpoint VTD00 Tumble Drier – belt keeps breaking
MickGeorge wrote:
If only manifacures would go back to jockey pulleys I am convinced it would save all these problems – but there again the m/c would last a lot longer as wellzanussis were, havent been inside a zde47100 yet, but asw currys are trying to flog them for a ridiculous £159, im guessing it something else given the chop…
interestingly am due some statesman driers soon, been assured they are jockey supported and at £125ish trade that puts them in hotpoint territory
Re: CDA intergrated washer dryer
subs! stay away unless you write it off, have had too many issues with cda cr@p ourselves… think these were candy sourced, if it says made in italy on it. the fagor and beko cda kit was alright. does this have a black smooth outer drum out of interest??
customer wont thank you for fixing it and then it going wrong, aGAIN, AND AGAIN, AND AGAIN… http://www.reviewcentre.com/reviews181706.html
Re: Hotpoint VTD00 Tumble Drier – belt keeps breaking
check screws at the lower front panel too. ive come across updated brackets on the is60vs which strengthen the join between base and front panel, to stop some of the flex.
not come across this yet on earlier vtds and tvrs, btu on every occasion i do a belt on a vtd i check these screws as they loosen out and allow the front to flex forward enough to allow a sock or something thin to jam the drum…
Re: Viscount cooker model PC60GW
see my post: http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/modules.p … t=viscount
i believe the inference i recieved was that the viscounts were out of the same factory as the frigidaire/micromark cookers. assuming pc60gw is a twin cav 60 gas cooker?
Re: Hotpoint WDL520P
door hinge assbly – has it dropped and not engaging i/l properly???
pinched hoses?
Re: Help Me Choose My Oven – Ready To Pull Trigger
ok as its a bit of a bandwagon thread, seriously CONSIDER whether you need a b/u d/o…
total capacity for both ovens only slightly outweighs a single, the main benefit obviously being control of 2 temperature zones in one carcass space.
fact is the main oven on any b/u d/o is tiny, and rarely has enough height to comfortably accomodate a christmas turkey.
as well as this, obviously unit preparation will add to teh total cost of incorporating a b/u d/o, especially if its a case of a 60×60 single oven to a b/u d/o and if there is only a 13a feed for the original oven…
and again other than the advantage of having the hob separate to the oven, in case something major goes wrong with one or the other, there is no contest between a hob+b/u d/o vs freestanding d/o cooker… f/s d/o wins hands down 🙂
