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it is worth poijting out, that for some reason on the pic, over the sump hose, theres some sort of white residue, which looks suspiciously like its been leaking
it would concern me, but if im honest, as penguin says ( and iadom did point this out to you) , if you run the machine with faulty carbon brushes, it can cause premature pcb failure
is this the machine you took picture of , lay on its side?
if so, its worth checking the hose from the pressure switch to the sump hose, it could well have got water in it, and / or airlocked
well, you could always modify it to the sensor in the front duct
but theres a software change, which means new pc and eprom/card
is there not two slots on the underside of the knob?
as far as i remember, you undo the screws and just pull the small access panel down
cant u just change the coil thats faulty ?
i just have a bag of working coils, and change the faulty coil
to be honest, its more likeley the defrost heater thats the problem
its a simple test with a meter
and its probably worth checking the sensor/thermal fuse.. cos they come as a complete evaporator unit, with all attatchednothings impossible… maybe someone ( with the plug out ) check for loose connections on the board itself
theres a breather hose, runs from the rear of the dispenser to the top of the tub.. id be checking there…
funnily enough, steve i was thinking about that just this morning, the older, smaller bendix dryers had a kind of ‘wear strip’ not sure what it was made of, but it basically sat between the drum shaft and the bearing.. lasted a long time too
the answer of course is do what REAL engineers do, and use a proper bearing, capable of supporting that amount of pressure
