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clean the condenser out
behind the flap , undo the 3 clips and pull it out
itll be full of fluff…. if you cant se through the vents, it cant dry!
the filter on the dryer box, like i said
the conversion was to take out the filter and snip the wire to the flushing valve!!
a wd420 doesnt have a condenser
strange, thats usually an inlet valve problem
does it have a grey ribbed pipe running to the back of the dryer housing?
if it does then that attatches to a filter that may well need cleaning
next thing to check of course is the sump hose ( black pipe from bottom of drum to pump ) access through the lower rear panel
are you trying to dry a full load? these machines are only designed to dry half a load effectively
does it have a 4 way valve or 3?
loads of questions, but remember to unplug the machine if your going to play
Re: Another joke.
maltheviking wrote:
Penguin45 wrote:
Psst! P6……:p45:Bloody goats always ahead of the que 😆
i wouldnt be too quick to admit being behind a goat!
and what a pile of rubbish these dryers are
by all means change the pcb
trouble is, the sensor bar is on the front of the duct (the 2 silver bars on the inside of the door )
sometimes, a good clean with alcohol based solution helps, they get coated with stuff
howvere if you watch the dryer with the door open, the stupid thing tumbles, and pushes the clothes to the back, therefore not touching the sensor
we’ve found leaning them forward slightly helps
pcb quite often cures it
take the pump out
the hole is on the very left hand side at the bottom…
i have an old belt, cut in half , which is perfet to shove through the holewhen you push it through, youll know if it was blocked, because water will flow
i then take out the condenser and put my arm down and remove the fluff that was blocking it, cos it usually washes back
hope this helps?
it would normally stick.. is the temperature dial in the right position?
strange that, cos if the heater was gone, it would stick, if the ntc was faulty ud get an n f03 fault
2 different heaters
i suspect the dryer section is faulty
could really use the fault lights, but id be looking at the dryer section, plug out, lid off, its all on the top of the drum!
a quick component test with a meter will confirm the faulty part!
if the wash heater was faulty, u wouldnt get a fault code…. it would just stick on wash
hope this helps
the green coil is faulty on the 3 way valve
worth checking the condenser for blockages as well
you can change the whole valve if u ike, or just change the green coil ( thats what i do)
