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or maybe its tripped because the cycling stat thats faulty?
just change the set, theyre not expensive
ok, as requested
the condenser dryers have a tensioning pulley, thing is, theres no spring, and its rigid, and yes, they do break
dont change a great deal of belts… im far too busy fitting fans/mod kits/heaters/capacitors/timers/pumps/rear bearings/motors
the vented dryer idea is a bit hit and miss.. the belt is so unbeleivably tight
my tip for the belt?
(dont laugh)
place the belt over your head, around your shoulders, stand on the belt, and with as much force as you can, stretch the belt as much as you can
it does help, and makes it easier to fit?the common reason for the belt breaking is the fact that the drum drops of the front bearings and jams, i tend to put 2, sometimes 3 washers on the shaft to try and push the drum as far forward as possible
best thing i would advise to the independants is to make the customer aware that the belt is a common problem, and offer to fit the belt at cost if the belt should break reasonably quickly? otherwise, you could be well out of pocket im sure if you charged them £15 just for a belt, they gotta be happy right?
would that be fair? feedback guys?when the dial clicks round, count the number of flashes
theres a 2 second pause, then count the flashes untill the next pausefaults listed in known error codes thread
my moneys on 8 (heater relay)
interestingly, if it isnt running all the time, it shouldnt be freezing all the time
often, people monitor the fridge after a stats been fitted, and then notice the ice, which, incidentally has always been there, people seem blissfully unaware of it untill theres a problem
its sounds like its ok if it isnt running all the time, sounds as if the stat is switching on and of as normal
the plastic coating on the stat isnt important, its only the last 15-20mm of the stat phile that matters, and thats usually uncovered
as ever, i do find that it would be better to fit a genuine stat for that model, as they tend to be be quite inexpensive to be fair
erm actually, you can program it from the display on the front using the code written on the label on the top face of your original pcb
not an easy task, not for the faint hearted, but, alas, i dont think theres any trader who would just freely supply you the information to just for you to do it yourself
the thermistor is the probe that fits in/around the heater area
ive looked on my samsung manual, and its not listed, but i can assure you its theredoesnt matter what belt you fit
1701658 / 1703666 / pattern , as long as thyere all 1860 in length
they all snap, i fit probably 8-10 a week
theyre just too tight, a couple of jockey pulleys is the easy cure, but hey, they must save around £1.50 per dryer so some accountant would have said it was ok
itlll always be a numbers game, and until people realise that cheap isnt the best option, things will continue to be built cheaply, but more importantly badly
cant remember the last time i fixed a zanussi dryer
9. THERMISTOR ERROR – Display shows tE .
– This error occurs, when Thermistor circuit is abnormal or a voltage of 0.2v or below or, 4.5v and over is detected
– This error can be cleared by power s/w offthe wash thermistor appears to be faulty
could be a broken wire of course
plug out if investigating!!
top off, front off
duct off, drum out
put belt over drum, refit drumloosen motor bolts so theyre just holding motor. put belt over shaft, tighten bolts, reassemble
just time consuming to be fair
it does make it easier if you loosen the motor boltshope this helps
hmm, thats an interesting one
usually , if the element has failed, the pilot light should be on
a simple continuity test on the element will confirm whether its faulty or not, but the good moneys on the thermostat tbh
but id test the element first, it isnt impossible for the element to have caused damage to the thermostat
