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yup , exhaust stat, the one inside the door, look upwards, and towards the front of the machine, inside the drum baffle, secured with 2 screws.. (use a mirror).. itll be that , usually is
yep, 70, and hes probably fixed none of them, its 9mths old, is it really that unusual for a samsung agent to fix samsung machines?
by slagging the machine off, it justifies his next call, cos theyre just rubbish arent they
maybe if hed fixed it, he wouldnt be coming back, now would he?
does no one ever think it cant transfer the heat because there isnt any there?
reality check please?
im usually quite vocal regarding the samsung fridge freezer scenario, but ive stopped now because under informed people are making sweeping statements about things they obviously have no idea about
get someone out who knows what theyre doing!!
all vented dryers have the same belt.. 1701658 , and that fits the earlier tdl and tl models, so its worth keepin a couple in yer van
the condenser belts tend not to snap, its usually the pulley that breaks
so really, its just the one
and before anyone jumps in with the ‘correct’ part number, i think ull find this belt is the same length, and fits all of the late vented range of merloni dryers
hth
take that useless flap off the neck of the outlet of the pump… murder for sticking, and causing a vacuum!
oh, and did you know there was a kit for the earlier wmas, including a modified sump and pressure switch? designed to cure that problem, but id still be checking the pressure hose
f03 is an ntc fault
could be a broken wire, or a faulty ntc itself… comes as part of the heater
if youve changed the baord (with eprom) then its gotta be that
hth
thing is, by reading these forums, people arent always able to afford an engineer, the site is here for many reasons.. theres a trade section for all us engineers to help each other out, and offer advice.. its a hard world out there, but, as we’ve repetedly seen, and found, ther will be a percentage of work generated from these forums.. not everything can be cured by simple advice…
i keep saying it, but its a testament to the creators and moderators of this site that the site continues to grow in stature, and its a site im proud to be a part of, as im sure other traders and engineers alike will agree
of course, theres always the fact that next time people who have had good, free of charge advice, have a problem, they will come back for more, and its always possible that people will contribute to the upkeep of this site by purchasing spare parts, or even booking a reputable engineer (no cowboys on board here, a can assure you of that )
neway, its good to know your problem was sorted, and the word has been spreading.. im sure you know where we are if u need any more help
i reckon, i fit 3 of these a week, minimum
the loom kit is designed to change the load on the selector, since its wired differently
the switch stays the same
i mean, come on, who thought of putting a main selector directly under the biggest and hottest burner on the cooker?
thats the reason for the plate over the selector… but, alas the selector still burns out
i renew the burnt wires as and were i find them, and i seem to be having some success
just change the selector, the loom doesnt always cure it!!
woah
that part numbers for the complete loom
the selctor number is 050028
or 0500281
a looms a lengthy job
and thats because water doesnt get to the pump, so the toc cuts the pump out cos it gets hot
usually, thats why its ok on wash, cos its full of water
best to clean the condenser then change the pump anyway, bet ur life ull be called back!!!
if you were experienced and competent, youd have written them down as you took them off!
sorry, cant supply that kind of info, cant be responsible for possible injury
theres a tech bulletin about those jockey pulleys, along with a part number for a new type pulley
gonna need new puleys im afraid.. pig of a job too
if its one of them naff beko versions, i think youll find if you push the clock back together, itll work fine
