Hollytree_Technical

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Viewing 15 posts - 391 through 405 (of 775 total)
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  • in reply to: Cooker spur point. #436765
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    Re: Cooker spur point.

    If it is a low enough power then there is nothing wrong with running it off a 13A plug but no matter what it is run from there has to be an means of isolation within 2 meters of the cooker.
    As I understood it you shut the power off by turning the main switch in the house off, this would still leave every other circuit connected in parallel to the cooker circuit so your IR test would not tell you much useful info.
    An earth loop test would be more useful than an IR test if the customer is getting shocks (although I read that as being the cooker before the one that you are replacing in which case the issue may have been sorted).
    You really need to have more knowledge about earthing and protection systems before you can say whether or not it is safely earthed.

    Jem

    (looks like you posted while I was writing this).

    in reply to: Cooker spur point. #436761
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    Re: Cooker spur point.

    If you have only turned off the main switch in the house then you are IR testing the whole house which won’t really tell you anything without disconnecting every single appliance and light bulb etc first.

    Jem

    Edit: In the case of testing the whole house you would want to make sure that you short L and N together otherwise you could potentially damage the electronics in something else, also only use 250VDC for the same reason.

    in reply to: Fischer Paykel Dishwasher DD605H Panel Fuse Blown #436565
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    Re: Fischer Paykel Dishwasher DD605H Panel Fuse Blown

    If I remember rightly I had a rectifier diode fail short circuit on one of these causing it to draw a fairly constant 1 amp though I am sure that that was causing the heater plate resistor to run too hot and blow its fuse.

    Jem

    in reply to: Esl63010 pnc 911539012 07 Electrolux dishwasher #436336
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    Re: Esl63010 pnc 911539012 07 Electrolux dishwasher

    It may or may not help you but one odd ball fault that I have come across in the past with Electrolux is that they may not do anything without having rinse aid in them, them seem to do a certain number of washes after the rinse aid light comes on then stop.

    Jem

    in reply to: Miele W1512 – Module Configuration #436079
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    Re: Miele W1512 – Module Configuration

    Thanks Seamy, I didn’t think that anything like that would be in the instruction book.

    Jem

    in reply to: indesit iwdc 6105 uk leds are on #436095
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    Re: indesit iwdc 6105 uk leds are on

    Send it to EMW, it will be quicker to than ordering a new pcb and will come back pre programmed with a six month warrenty and work out cheaper.

    Jem

    in reply to: Lec Defrost Timer Sticking #435625
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    Re: Lec Defrost Timer Sticking

    Here is a typical wiring diagram which should show you why it may stop, it doesn’t sound like it is quite the same diagram as they are using on your machine but it will give you an idea of the technique that they use.

    Jem

    in reply to: Hoover DYN9144 D3X error E03 & E16 #435462
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    Re: Hoover DYN9144 D3X error E03 & E16

    Yes – get it hot and then test the insulation and you will find that his dropped.

    Jem

    in reply to: Whirlpool t/l 3lwtw55560ywg #435395
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    Re: Whirlpool t/l 3lwtw55560ywg

    I can’t find your model number but assuming that it is one of the American style toploaders with a gearbox and agitator etc then can give you my experience as below (if it isn’t then please ignore me).

    The phosphor bearings are very soft and although it is possible to tap them out they will deform and crumble, the only way to get them in is to use a proper mandrel (I couldn’t buy one so had to get one made – probably still got the engineering drawing I did for it if needed) which puts even pressure round the edge of the bearing and stops it collapsing in on itself (I tried doing one without and ended up doing it again). The seals are also a pain to fit as there are 2 stacked on top of each other at at least one end of the tube, it can be done without the proper seating tool but is a pain. Its 5+ years since I last did one but the bearings that came in the kit appeared to be a different grade of material to those that you bought individually – the individual ones were more like the originals on the machine and nicer to fit.

    All in all the job was a pain in the backside and although it wouldn’t stop me doing another one it does mean that I would put a lot more planning and tool preparation in first as it is not a job for the faint hearted.

    Jem

    Edit: I only did the spin tube bearings.

    in reply to: Hoover DYNS7144DIS/1-80 #434519
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    Re: Hoover DYNS7144DIS/1-80

    After checking the usual blocked pressure chamber etc I would suggest checking the heating element – low insulation causes various faults on these with the main one being an E03 error.

    Jem

    in reply to: bosch washer dryer wkd28350gb/01 #433859
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    Re: bosch washer dryer wkd28350gb/01

    I am guessing that you have fitted it by now but I had to do the Neff version of this machine earlier today and thought that I would attach the instructions that came with the part here for future reference for people.

    Jem

    in reply to: rubbish non genuine dryer capacitors #427632
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    Re: rubbish non genuine dryer capacitors

    Here is the pictures of a “Last One” branded capacitor that has lasted less than 2 weeks.

    Jem

    in reply to: Electrolux ewd1409l #433320
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    Re: Electrolux ewd1409l

    Disconnecting the drying element will allow the machine to complete wash cycles with no problem at all but an IR fault on the drying element would normally show at the plug top.
    If the lock is getting warm then it may be worth checking that the door is aligned and shutting properly as it sounds like it is trying to operate but the slide is not back far enough.

    Jem

    in reply to: FREEKN WINDOWS 7 SIDE BARS –AHHHHH #433117
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    Re: FREEKN WINDOWS 7 SIDE BARS –AHHHHH

    Windows 7 doesn’t have the side bars – do you mean windows 8?

    in reply to: Electrolux DW 40010V1 Relay For PCB? See Photos #430486
    Hollytree_Technical
    Participant

    Re: Electrolux DW 40010V1 Relay For PCB? See Photos

    Try an “Omron G5LE-1-E DC12” – Rs part No: 492-894

    It actually has a slightly higher contact current rating which may be useful looking at the burn marks on the end of the old one.

    Jem

Viewing 15 posts - 391 through 405 (of 775 total)