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Hi matt hope this picture will help you rule out some components put it on quick wash and listen carefully the 11 steps should happen in sequence
Yes your right Dave, the only way condensation can get on the pcb is going to be in that area and the part number on that seal I’m sure might be different as it is a tight fight and you have to encourage the drum around to get it started and leave run for a good 20 minutes
There is a modification to the seal where the drum sits on for the problem your complaing about it call a felt seal part number is 40007831 kai
Are you under warranty on this dryer as I think this is very new as not all the parts are listed on this model
How are you attempting a bearing change it’s a sealed drum and won’t go back together without leaking
I think dave is right when you change a spark genarator the 1 oven is wired through clock so that has to go in a certain place otherwise you get the problem you have
Yes spot on the neutral supply runs through the thermostat so I would suggest bypassing that to test
I’m finding customers thing there right no matter what I has a similar sort if thing on a vyilt in gas oven replaced a thermocouple and when I left 2 days later she said the bulb wasn’t working since I replaced the thermocouple so I said when I’m passing I would call and replace weeks later I get a call to say her son had replaced it and since I replaced the thermocouple the doors next to it are burnt, which is no possible I’m waiting to call back to prove her wrong
The one place you haven’t checked is the Sump they tend to leak on the long eco setting place a piece of kitchen roll where the Sump seal sits and you should find its leaking there
