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Re: Zanussi DWS919 No fill
leavemetogetonwithit wrote:Hopefully it’s all gonna be fine now.
Bah. No such luck. Message on AP today. No fill again. Time to give up?
Mike.Re: Bosch Washing Machine – All spin lights lit + Wash light
When Hotpoints do this, it’s down to a faulty capacitor on the main board. (See “Simple pcb repairs” sticky.) I wonder if this is the first sign of a similar fault?
Mike.Re: Miele brushes
If you’ve got an account with Seme-nedis or could be just Nedis now, they do some pattern brushes which are as good as genuine. Trouble is you really need to know the part number, otherwise it’s virtually impossible to find anything on their site. Phone call would probably work OK. 0871 222 6655 (10p/min). Oh, hang on a minute. I think it’s W1-18011/A (their pattern no.) you need. Order two as they’re priced in singles.
Mike.Re: Whirpool DWFA10 flashes 7 times
Yes, it’s the usual. You just need a reed switch. Do a search here if more info needed 😉 .
Mike.Re: Let’s all go on holiday together!
Gazman1000 wrote:Bill and Cath, a young couple from Windsor.
Ah, Windsor, that’s just down the road from your patch and from Martin too. That’s no doubt why y’all’ve of heard of them; whilst here in the South West no-one would know who you were talkin’ ’bout. 😆
Mike.Re: Unusual Hotpoint Condensor dryer fault.
Was relay RT314024, the one on its own next to the blue transformer. Contacts inside were burnt black.
Farnell order code 162-9045 £2.74 each. Min. order £20 with free delivery.
They do a good range of tools so I bought myself a new copper faced hammer; long overdue – the head came off my old one the other day :duck: .
Thanks for the help.
Mike.Re: Connect changed courier?
Yep, my order arrived today about midday. First time for ages I’ve gone to work on a Saturday afternoon but I’d have surely had some grief from customers if I hadn’t.
Hopefully, it’s just teething troubles with the new courier as MPT “sent it to the wrong depot” by their own admission. I’m just going to have to learn not to give customers any more assurances about when stuff’ll be done.
Mike.Re: hotpoint w/dryer loose top weight
I think Martin is having a laugh. I can’t believe he’s ever tried that himself. I daresay it could work though, providing you use a semi-soft spacer below the weight to take up any wear space and you manage to get the tape tight, which I’d imagine would be very difficult. Maybe a couple of ratchet ties as used for roof racks might also be tried.
Mike.Re: widxl126 washer/dryer
I seem to remember something like this happening to a WIXL127 or some such number I worked on. It was the on/off or the start tactile switch that was worn out. Took one from an unused option button and all was OK. Think I may have also had to put in a link or two to get round the “hole” created where the option button had been. (I should emphasise that my memory of the whole affair is quite clouded now.) Intermittent fault of course, so not always found by EMW as they wouldn’t necessarily be fully informed of the nature of the fault.
Mike.Re: hotpoint w/dryer loose top weight
This is the sort of job I relish. So much more interesting than changing interlocks. Cable ties? I don’t know. Maybe if you can pad them out so that any shocks they receive are damped and any abrasion from the concrete is prevented. You could also try filling the female bits of the ties (hmm. they’re a bit like earthworms) with a suitable glue to discourage them from coming loose. Put your mind to work. “Where there’s a will, there’s a way.”
Mike.
PS. It’s going to be tough though, because those bolts normally hold the weight down with a very strong force (hundreds of pounds?) and I can’t quite see how you can get quite that sort of force from a nylon tie in the vertical direction required.Re: Connect Prices
Yep, see what you mean. Might be worth offering them £50 for their last remaining two in stock! Don’t expect they’ll be replenishing.
Mike.Re: Connect Prices
Trouble is the cheap Plasets and Askolls don’t have a toc. Whereas, I think, there is a toc in each of the Plasets on the LG. So you have to be careful what you pick to replace them. (I tend to err on the safe side and always fit a pump with a toc where the old one had one, and sometimes even where it didn’t.)
I’ve never bought a double LG pump myself but its conceivable that someone else might want to. It only came to my attention when I was looking up what pump was needed for a WM14331 someone rang me about today.
Mike.Re: Door interlock testing out of machine PTC versions
Martin wrote:
leavemetogetonwithit wrote:
Taking apart the old lock after you’ve replaced it is a useful check to make sure your diagnosis was correct.I’m not at all sure what you are saying here on this one Mike?
Well, for example, I went to a WM series which was reported dead the other day. But when I got there it powered up fine so I wasn’t certain there might not be some other cause for the intermittent fault, e.g. faulty socket. Rather than try it a second time and risk damaging the hybrid timer, I fitted a new lock then bust the old one open to have a look at the innards. As expected, there were the usual carbon deposits and corroded heater (ptc)/bimetal contacts which were confirmation enough. Had I found a clean interior to the interlock, I would have looked further for the cause and possibly found it thus avoiding having a call back. (Not much I enjoy less in life than a call back!)
Mike.Re: Door interlock testing out of machine PTC versions
PS. In most cases it’s not a live supply to the lock which is missing when the board has gone pop; the damage is normally in the neutral side and the live will still be there.
Mike.
