Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Re: bosch washing machine WFO2467GB/15
Yes Dapper , a faulty heater element will leave you with 1 minute in the display and ‘continual washing’ . It will eventually move on after approx 105 mins of no heating. To test it , put it on a cold wash cycle to see if it completes the cycle ok….if it does , you will need to check the heater element for continuity to confirm its the heater element open circuit .
POWER OFF IF INVESTIGATING.
Re: Bosch WTE86304Gb/05 TD
IIRC , If you stop these dryers during a cycle , on restarting them , the time will revert back to its initial start time before re-calculating the new drying time after start up……so , i’d be looking at the door lock or a power supply problem .
Re: Bosch WTE86304GB/05 F05
F:06 = excess temp of the heater is detected….so i’d be looking at an airway blocked or the condensor all bunged up
Re: bosch shv55m03gb/56 is playing up.
gandh1 wrote:Hope your sitting comfortably people
ran it again, filled but no circ motor action or drain when reset. check pcb to find usual burn when theres a “no heat fault” sent to emw.3rd call:
last job of the day to refit pcb, and still same failures, although you can hear the diverter motor click clack, and the time display counts down as per normal just no circ motor action or drain when reset. pump does work if you activate flood control. piddled off by now and brain drained so go backI had this exact fault today on a Siemens DW (plastic base model) Would click click on start up but no drain pump or circ motor action even on reset. Lift mushroom up…..drains. Found the burnt out heater joint too but no other signs of damage – Brand new control module fitted in the end. My guess is that EMW ( are they the company that repair pcb’s ? ) have repaired for the heater joint but there is more damage to one or more of the chips.
I’d hazard that it needs a new board
Re: BOSCH SGS43A12/42 Program times way out.
No need to fit that plug/mod or cur any wires . Ki12 is referring to the /** that appears after the main ENr number and in your case , as its /42 , its not required.
As to the timings , my guess is that either you havn’t programmed it for your model or its been incorrectly programmed .
Was there a coding sheet in the box with the new module ?
The paddles can get a thin limescale coating so a wipe with white vinegar has been recommended to me .
When your machine beeps , do you get any other indications with it i.e flashing lights or anythiing in the LED display ?Yes , if you do a sensor dry cycle empty , it will shut down as it thinks everything’s dry.
With a damp load in , Does it count down , and continue to count down without the drum actually turning ? If yes , then its most probably the door lock .
…..oh , and don’t forget to give the paddles inside the drum a really good clean.More than likely the pressure chmber/fill hose will be clogged and blocked .
Left hand side panel off and watch the fill sequence . You’ll probably see the water backing up from either the pressure chamber itself or the ribbed hose between the pressure chamber and sump.
You don’t unhook just one side Martin . I do exactly the same as if i was lifting off tub completely with undoing the screws that hold the tub to the sump . Once all the external screws/springs etc have been removed and the motor ‘bungees’ unhooked , you lift the RHS and prop the hinge arm on the base pan. The sump lifts with the tub thus giving enough room to twist off the motor . As usual , it helps with these things once you’ve done a few.
I know engineers that , when replacing an Istantaneous water heater , will tip a machine on its back and take off the base that way but its a method i’ve never really used , much preferring to remove the tub completely , the same as yourself i guess .
Probably the boards goosed mate . If you basically have every led flashing , it normally means the microprocessor has failed on the control module.
That TRIAC does indeed control the water point motor so you will need to sort out the motor actuator too or any replacement TRIAC ( not even sure it can be replaced ?) will pop staight away !!
Take the bulb out and visit your local DIY Superstore or major Tesco’s/Sainsbury’s etc. As long as its rated for ovens , you will prob find the right bulb there for a lot less !
SF64A630GB/08 is the ENr or ‘model numbr. There should be an FD **** somewhere in the same area as where you found the ENr number….post this and we can give you the manafacturing date. My guess is that its a bit older than 2008……probably early to mid 2000’s .
As to acessing the drain pump , it can only be got at through the bottom front edge cover plate and isn’t the easiest thing to get to or replace.
