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In my mind its a poor design on this element. I would say 9 times out of 10 , its the bottom right corner ‘bend’ that pops and i believe the radius of the bend is too tight .
Re: Bosch wff1201 – door wont open
timdowning wrote:Low insulation on heater can cause this!
This is very true. Had a couple recently with this very fault .
It does come out Wilf…..have you taken the hose off the top ? The hose is a bit of a bugger to remove and refit but it will come off . Then its a case of wiggling the pump out…..once it is out , there is a very small channel at the back right hand corner where the water flows in from the rear sump area. This is prone to blocking and needs something fairly thin and flexible to clear it. I use an old coat hanger.
The plastic box just after the tap is an aquastop. Its a safety device and has nothing to do with fill levels.
I’d be looking at the pressure chamber on the left hand side . This is what controls the water level. When full , the water should just reach the salt pot lid .
Are you sure the waters not backing up into the pressure chamber causing the appliance to low fill ? If it does , the blue arm on the pressure chamber will operate early , and the wash motor starts to early.If the dishwasher on its fill cycle fills/empties a bit/fills/empties a bit and doesn’t actually start its wash cycle , then the most likely culprit is the flow rate meter – part No: 424099. Ita a smallish white cyclindrical looking object between the inlet hose and water matrix on the left hand side.
If these go wrong , not only will you get a continuous fill/drain cycle on start up but the check water (tap sign) light may appear on the display too.
How much water is there is the bottom of the appliance once it starts washing ? It should almost cover the base and should reach the bottom of the salt pot lid.
Does it make any funny ‘donking’ noises when filling ?
Check your spray arms are clear too.Finally…..don’t use the quick wash so often. It can lead to a blockage in the pipe that leads into the tub and can cause low water levels.
i think you may have missed an ‘i’ from between the t and e ( and its a Siemens :tup: )
for model SE6TIE1GB/29…and these are genuine part numbers and prices from BSH
circulating motor 266520 £102:00+vat
sealing kit 165813 £35:00+vatF11 would indicate ‘control failure – change control’ ….but i’ve never seen it so can’t give you any more details than that.
First things first Michael , whats the water level like when its in action ? It should just about cover the base , reaching the lower edge of the salt pot . Low water levels will stop the appliance from heating. Does it make any funny ‘kerdunking’ noises when its filling up ?
I’d have a look at the left hand side , with the panel off to check for any gunge build-up or blockages in the pressure chamber ( middle and bottom right hand corner as you look at the left hand side.
Re: Manufacturering plants of white goods.
lee8 wrote:Here is a link to the BSH Espana site listing there products and there factories.
http://www.bsh-group.es/index.php?page=115933
All the UK fridgeration came from Spain as did all there Hobs, a lot of dishwashers also came with same spec as Balay brand rebadged Bosch in the UK.
In fact most of the Bosch Group products apart from Washers came from Spain.
Not quite true Lee8 – A lot of the Bosch products come from all over the EU – not mainly Spain . In fact , more are made in Poland i believeIf the condensor solenoid test ok , next stop is a blocked condensor box on the LHS . They can get blocked where the condensor box is attached to the drum …..not a job for the faint-hearted !!!
