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Re: Ariston Margherita A1435 – Spin performance
Check the filter first – it’s under the kick panel at the bottom. Failure to clear the water easily can lead to excessive viration and ultimately, bearing failure.
Regards,
Penguin45.Re: WASHING MACHINE IS DOING SOMETHING STRANGE!
OK, JM, start from the beginning, this is what should happen:
Wash.
1) Hot (60/90c) or hot and cold (40c) fill to wash level.
2) When water reaches level 1, wash action should start.
3) After approx 3 mins, timer advances to static heat. This means that the timer stops until 37c is reached, when the thermostat completes the circuit and restarts the motor and timer. For the hotter washes, heat will continue against time until achieved. If the “Economy” button is depressed, the static heat phase is bypassed and the motor will continue to run.Rinse.
At the end of the wash, the machine will drain and go up to “distribute”, a slightly faster speed. The first 2 rinses will not go to spin, the third and last will, the final one being the high speed one.The rinses are conducted with cold water only. The last rinse operates both inlets on the cold valve, in order to drain the conditioner container. The same conditions apply – the water must reach level 1 for motor action to start. By the same token, spin cannot start until the level switch detects that the water has gone.
Bearing this in mind, please observe what actually happens in the programme and report back.
The bit that doesn’t happen, or happens incorrectly will allow us to tell what is likely to wrong with your appliance. BTW, the clothes should be stone cold at the end of the wash, remember that the rinses are cold water only.
Regards,
Penguin45.Re: Bosch WFT2800 Wets Clothes as it “Dries”!
“Quad valve” is the 4 way inlet valve attached to the cold fill hose.
The valve should allow approximately 1 pint per minute to enter the machine as part of the drying process. By the same token, you should hear the drain pump pulsing once every minute or so.
One thing that has not been mentioned so far is that the drain hose is routed via an air break – this is a tubular assembly in the rear left corner of the machine. It can fill with fluff if the dryer is used regularly; equally if you are in a hard water area it can fill with chalk flakes or even old soap. If connected to a sink coupling, this can choke as well.
Based on what I have read so far, I would go with the pump wearing out. This is a “magnetic” type and the rotor is prone to wearing in its housing. If any lateral play can be detected if you try and wiggle the impellor from side to side, it needs replacing as it will be intermittant in operation.
HTH,
Regards,
Penguin45.Re: electrolux integrated slimline esl424
Probably underfilling then. It’s a “blue tubes” machine – clean them out and the horseshoe hose underneath. The extra water entering will allow the top rotor to operate properly, thus clearing the soap dispenser.
Cheers,
Chris.Re: Candy CE101 – Timer won’t advance
Timer p/no 91200529 – email to spares@ukwhitegoods.co.uk for prices and ordering.
For future readers we do not recommend any sort of live testing – it is extemely dangerous.
Regards,
Penguin45.Re: Hotpoint Ultima FDW80 Spotty Cutlery & Cloudy Glasse
Have a read of this as a starting point:
http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/modules.p … age&pid=37
Maintaining the rinse aid in the dispenser is almost dertainly causing an overdosing effect when added to what is contained in the tablet.
In general, engineers don’t like tablets, as you have no control over the dosing. We like powder, rinse aid and salt all as separates, allowing you to “fine tune” your wash process.
Regards,
Penguin45.Re: blomberg 1501 AAA wont take conditioner
Remove drawer. Clean roof of chamber thoroughly. Prick out the holes above the conditioner compartment, see if that gets things going. If not, you may have a dead coil on the inlet valve.
Power off if going inside,
Regards,
Penguin45.Re: Hotpoint BFI62
Check cold water is actually on (those little blue tags can turn without opening the tap). If ok inlet valve may have failed or had wiring disturbed (you’ve been working in that area).
Power off when going in.
Regards,
Penguin45.Re: w/pool d/washer ADG993 (854299315120)
TELL wrote:expensive wrong diagnoses.
Re-con boards available from the usual sources at much more sensible prices……….
Chris.
Re: Magnetic pump design.
The “Big Askoll” used as a circulation pump in dishwashers has proved to be a bit if a disaster.
Chris.
Re: Zanussi condenser dryer TC71P
You’ll need these then:
http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/modules.p … ucts_id=80If the washer’s rattling around, check the filter first – if it’s even partially choked it will make the machine shake on spin.
Regards,
Penguin45.Re: Naiko DW040 – attaching to taps?
The dishwaasher will draw water on demand via an electric water valve. If you use a tap adaptor as the coupling for the supply side, it will spend a great deal of time pressurised, waiting for the dishwasher to ask for a very small amount of water. This normally equals water squirting all over the place, as modern adaptors just don’t seal very well. 🙄
Be persuasive – it will not be particularly expensive to have a proper 3/4″BPI supply tap fitted – and it will be reliable.
Regards,
Penguin45.Re: Ariston AS150
Probably temperature sensor failure – temperature rise not detected in time allowed, program aborts. Can be dodgy wiring, can be board fault. Awkward one to diagnose, especially awkward machine to work on. Probably engineer time in all honesty.
Power off if investigating, or click the link below for pro help.
Regards,
Penguin45.
