Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Re: Bosch WFR2868GB/05 bearing replacement
You have to break off all the locking tabs. There are probably unused screw holes. These will need extra screws when you put it back together.
Re: Washer drain pumps
Yes, it might be worth checking how much the current goes up when you stop a pump from turning. I don’t know if the coils can get hot enough to cause shorted turns. Like most of us here I’ve removed all sorts of things from pumps, coins, bra wires, bolts, rubber bands, nails etc. If it pumps OK with the obstruction removed you tend to assume the pump is OK but if it now draws more current due to shorted turns it could still damage the electronics. 😕
Re: petrol
Mike, have you ever had the bike or pannier contents stolen? That would be my worry. I once left a pushbike parked in a town car park overnight, chained to railings. When I went back for it only the frame remained. 😥
Re: LG / AEG door lock. Cheaper alternative?
Yes, its a pain trying to make up a viable order these days. All I need at the moment is a knob for a Hotpoint cooker but if I have to pay £6 postage it makes it a very dear knob. 🙁
Re: Hmmmm, what machine should I buy!!!???
I think I would go for the BOSCH WAE28468 UK. I would be cheeky and ask if it has a tub that can be dismantled for servicing. A lot of machines these days have welded together tubs so you can’t renew the drum bearings.
Re: LG / AEG door lock. Cheaper alternative?
leavemetogetonwithit wrote:Thanks for the offer Phidom. I can’t find the OPN but it’s the black one that has the socket for three tag connector in the side as opposed to above or below. Also fits some old AEGs. Has larger than usual opening for the door pecker.
Mike.
Sorry Mike, that’s the sort I needed for my job so the one I have here is wrong for yours too. 🙁
Re: insulation testing
I wonder how it’s done in a PAT tester? My megger is faulty so I tend to do insulation tests using the PAT tester. The worry with that is that I have to carry a cable with a 13 amp plug one end and individual spades for connecting to elements, motors etc. If my back was turned, a small child could pick up said cable and plug it into an ordinary socket :zap:
Re: LG / AEG door lock. Cheaper alternative?
If it’s 6601ER100A I have one you can have. I ordered the wrong one last time I did an LG. I think I still owe you a favour anyway.
Re: Old Machines
I would think the machine will be sent to your nearest ISE agent who will install it for you. These agents are independent so each will have his own policy about taking away machines. Probably best to discuss it when they contact you to arrange installation.
Re: How to decide what to store and what to scrap?
I think the insurance companies would be on dodgy ground if the effectively put a stop to this kind of recycling. Perhaps builders would have to stop using reclaimed bricks, timber, slates etc. :rolls:
Re: How to decide what to store and what to scrap?
I know the feeling. I tend to think about what machines I want to be selling. For example, I would never sell an Indesit W103UK as they were a heap of junk so I would keep the motor, module and motorised switch and scrap the rest. I have a Whirlpool machine with a blown module which I’m keeping, hoping to find another Whirlpool with a broken spider. If it was a tatty machine I would have scrapped the cabinet but kept the tub assembly. I also use stacks of old inner drums to store smaller parts like pumps. That way they are performing a useful function whilst still being available as spare parts. I will have to have a clear out though as you end up with loads of parts for machines that are now 20 years old or more. I will sling all the old air cooled pumps, Hoover logic motors etc.
Re: servis m 3015 a module blown
There is usually another fault to cause the module to fail e.g. motor or heater failure. I would trace wires from the burnt section of the board to the likely culprit. A megger test would be useful for insulation tests between motor brush terminals and motor case, heater terminals and heater case etc.
Re: AEG (In) Competence – C41022GM ( Grill & Heating Pro
The part you mentioned is for controlling the tan that keeps the controls cool when grilling etc. If that part had failed, the fan could fail to come on and the control area could overheat. In such circumstances there would normally be additional protection in the form of a TOC (thermal overload cut-out) which would shut off the heating elements when the fan had failed to keep the control panel cool. This TOC will be a metal cylinder about 1 cm diameter with 2 spade terminals, mounted somewhere on the steel panels of the appliance. I tried to find a part number for this but the part descriptions have been poorly translated from Italian so it’s not easy to identify the right one. It could be part No. 50281190004 but I can’t find a photo of that part so I’m not sure.
