Seamy

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Viewing 15 posts - 856 through 870 (of 2,653 total)
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  • in reply to: beko wme8227B #402642
    Seamy
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    Re: beko wme8227B

    Always fit them through the door, if your doing it for the first time, take off the front & do it like that if you wish, theres been problems with the seal rubbing off the drum lip, causing smoking, burning smell etc.

    in reply to: Aeg washer /dryer fills on dry cycle #402443
    Seamy
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    Re: Aeg washer /dryer fills on dry cycle

    Tried diagnostics?

    in reply to: zanussi td 4113 tumble dryer #402582
    Seamy
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    Re: zanussi td 4113 tumble dryer

    A switch (thermostat) can be either open circuit or closed circuit. So if the contacts of the switch are open it will read high resistance, if it’s closed it will read low resistance. 1 ohm by the way is low resistance. Have you checked the thermostat that I advised may be at fault above the door of inner tub?

    in reply to: zanussi td 4113 tumble dryer #402580
    Seamy
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    Re: zanussi td 4113 tumble dryer

    Both should read closed circuit. One is a running thermostat that cuts in & out all the time, the other one is a safety cut out that can go open circuit if it senses over temperature. Theres another thermostat above the door opening on the inside of drum that controls the heater as well, it is most likely its faulty.

    in reply to: Belling xou 388 wiring dia. #402597
    Seamy
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    Re: Belling xou 388 wiring dia.

    Is there a door switch on it by any chance? Or maybe a cut out in circuit?

    in reply to: BEKO CFD64B #402604
    Seamy
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    Re: BEKO CFD64B

    Presumably theres an NTC mounted in the fridge cavity/wall that senses the temperature in fridge, not definite about this though. Theres 2 NTCs listed, ones the defrost one in the freezer department.
    On the rear control board, the 4way cable on the right hand side of PCB- blue = neut, brown = line, yellow = defrost, black = comp’ on the left of PCB, there a 3 pairs of cables, from top down they are potentiometer control, defrost sensor, evaporator sensor.

    I’m presuming the evaporator one is foamed into the rear wall of the fridge & is not replaceable. Most of these electronically controlled ones will defualt to timed cooling if theres a problem with the control NTCs.

    in reply to: Panasonic f/f NRB54X1WB #402616
    Seamy
    Participant

    Re: Panasonic f/f NRB54X1WB

    Ian i’ve PM’d you, defrost heater is on the evaporator, there are lots of heaters listed for it-
    PIPE HEATER, DRAIN HEATER, FC COIL BAC/FC ACCUME HEATER, PC DRAIN HEATER, TANK HEATER, DISPENSER HEATER, WATER SUPPLY HEATER, LAMP HEATER

    in reply to: beko wme8227B #402640
    Seamy
    Participant

    Re: beko wme8227B

    You can do it through the door, or the front will come off. There is an inner band, spring type.

    in reply to: Electrolux EKT6045X #402659
    Seamy
    Participant

    Re: Electrolux EKT6045X

    Best to mention the “specific” part you require & the product number of the appliance, so that someone may be able to help.

    in reply to: Problem with beko d2731fw slimline dishwasher #245350
    Seamy
    Participant

    Re: Problem with beko d2731fw slimline dishwasher

    Sounds like a programmer fault.

    in reply to: Beko Slimline Dishwasher #402327
    Seamy
    Participant

    Re: Beko Slimline Dishwasher

    Have you actually topped up the salt reservoir & rinse aid & still have thecwarning lights coming on?

    in reply to: AEG 16830 w/dryer prod no 914602122/01 #401940
    Seamy
    Participant

    Re: AEG 16830 w/dryer prod no 914602122/01

    Thats the valve with flow sensor.
    Condensate valve gets supply off J4-2 & J4-5, there would only be a trickle of water going into the condensor to keep it cool, there would be a restrictor on the dryer water side so not gushing in, none appearing in drum, pump runs on dry cycle so he may not realise its filling with water.
    What was the reason the valve was ordered in the first place?
    E10s would be water fill error codes i’d imagine that would show up if no water filling. May be just low pressure problem.

    in reply to: Beko Freezer mod TZDA524FW #401936
    Seamy
    Participant

    Re: Beko Freezer mod TZDA524FW

    Think there was a batch of them with poor connection at the plug at rear, to side of compressor. Theres a plug pushing into a scoket in top of compressor cavity. From memory it was always the neutral that had a dodgy connection.
    To be safe check all wiring to comp’, t’stat for loose connections.

    in reply to: Beko HJA6100 Freezer Problem #401919
    Seamy
    Participant

    Re: Beko HJA6100 Freezer Problem

    Drain channel at back/bottom of evaporator is blocked up more than likely, think theres a modification kit to stop this happening, check defrost heaters, fan etc

    Think this one also displays error codes.. Look in display & if theres an “!” showing in display then theres a fault code stored

    in reply to: AEG L64840 914524535 #401745
    Seamy
    Participant

    Re: AEG L64840 914524535

    Disconnect the pipe off pressure switch see if it zeros itself.
    Have found interlocks on these to cause the 1 minute left thouh, by not releasing.
    If pump running maybe theres something stuck in impellor & machine has’nt emptied, if it does’nt read empty it won’t do anything else.

Viewing 15 posts - 856 through 870 (of 2,653 total)