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spimps
ParticipantRe: Fridge Freezer stopped working
System would have to be evacuated,flushed,compressor would need firther oil,evacuated again and then regassed,would it work?not gauranteed.
Very time consuming and as KW says £100 plus.spimps
ParticipantRe: 3RLGR5435HQ0 Noise. How to get inside?
I suppose if you had a gas safe registered person with you to check it and sign it off it could be done legally.
If you do and want an exploded view of machine email me.
Easy fix it’s usually the drum carier wheels at the rear or maybe fan wheel.Drum drops when front removed but doesn’t fall out,disconnect belt and lift drum forward.spimps
ParticipantRe: 3RLGR5435HQ0 Noise. How to get inside?
If it’s gas don’t touch it would be my suggestion.
Used to do loads but can’t now because of Gas safe,Don’t think they are produced anymore either,shame decent machine.spimps
ParticipantRe: Fridge Freezer stopped working
aks_72 wrote:If it Helps
when the fridge was moved, and put into the van the compressor was at the top facing down, and so were the pipes,
If you lay one down on it’s alwasy keep the compressor end/bottom lower than the top of the fridge otherwise the oil which is very light will find it’s way into all the pipes it’s not supposed to be in, never to return.
Chances of recovery are slim to zero,sounds like it’s scrap.spimps
ParticipantRe: Fridge Freezer stopped working
The fan won’t cut in until the evaporator eaches a certain temperature,the evap would be evenly and heavily covered in frost if the fan had failed totally.
Sounds like you have a system restriction maybe due to some oil not having settled back causing partial blockage or could be oil in condenser causing poor cooling of rerigerant .
Normally leave off for a minimum of 4 -5 hours,it can also depend on which side it was laid.
Try leaving off for 24 hours in a warm room and see if that will pursuade the oil to return,if it’s no better after that then you could be in expensive trouble.
UNPLUG FIRST !!
Also check no blockage of dust etc underneath,there will also be a fan pulling air through that so worth a look.spimps
ParticipantRe: WHIRLPOOL TOP LOADER
ASD in Leeds are usually helpful.
spimps
ParticipantRe: WHIRLPOOL TOP LOADER
I’ve done a few but a while ago,always fitted the bearing and seals which came as a kit not necessarily this exact model but they are all fairly similar.
If the seal is worn it’s likely due to bearing wear anyway.spimps
ParticipantRe: Hotpoint Fridge RL150
The defrost water goes in there so it can get a bit “manky” nothing to worry about.
An exit opening of that size is great providing the inlet size is not restricted.spimps
ParticipantRe: hotpoint FF72P fault code
The baffle is in the housing which includes the fridge bulb at the top of the fridge.
Unplug first of course.
Worth checking the connectors on the wiring harness are OK.
They don’t normally need cleaning.
Motorised baffle part no 2600239
BGspimps
ParticipantRe: Hotpoint Fridge RL150
Remove from cupboard first, defrost and clean condenser at the rear.
It is imperitive that sufficient ventilation is allowed,this fitting doesn’t appear to give enough,the evaporator may not be reaching a low enough temp to cycle off the thermostat because of over heating of sysytem through poor ventilation.
Try running free standing before spending what would look like a waste of money on a door seal.
If it works better free standing you may have your answer,if not call back.
BGspimps
ParticipantRe: Refrigeration ‘interim personnel certificate’
My safe handling runs out in September so deciding whether to take the f gas 3kg one while I’m at it as thats around £520ish and will last a while or just repeat the safe handling which is a 1 day renewal.
This in between certificate is good news though so thanks for that Dales,much appreciated.
BGspimps
ParticipantRe: WAE24162UK/Constant fill
Martin wrote:
spimps wrote:
Is this pressure switch a simple pressure device or is fine wired side of it different?I have no idea but when I first saw one of the pressure switches I made the assumption it incorporated an anti-flood sensor. Well that’s what it looks like anyway?
They only cost £11 so may be worth sticking a new one in to see what happens?
💡
When you pressureise the tube there is only one click which operates what is the “normal” part so the other side is a bit of a mystery,it’s likely carrying a low voltage which would energise the pump relay ,might try one at that price though.The machine was scrapped so I got hold of it to try and get to the bottom of it.spimps
ParticipantRe: WAE24162UK/Constant fill
Martin wrote:Anti-flood kicked in on the Pressure Switch maybe?
Thanks
I’ve checked the diaphragm side of the pressure switch which I presume is the normal fill level which is OK.However the other smaller wires going to the pressure switch,the contacts are o/c but do not close when the the air tube is pressureised.
Is this pressure switch a simple pressure device or is fine wired side of it different?
CheersBGspimps
ParticipantRe: trouble logging in??
Looks like it’s been restored to an earlier time as some posts are missing.
spimps
ParticipantRe: hotpoint larder fridrge
Dales-Electronic wrote:No the F-Gas qualification does not cover R600a 🙁
They are only 5 years behind the times then :rolls:
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