[Twoten]

Thanks Don.

[Twoten]

Is there a solution to the problem. If replacement parts are ordered will they be the same as originally fitted or have Whirlpool upgraded the loom or interlock?

[Twoten]

Thermostat Coder replaced and problem solved.

[Twoten]

Thanks Dave,

I think I will have to give the thermostat ‘coder’ a try.
I wondered if the additional wire was either for connecting a test unit/programmer or as you suggest for a different control for another model but then don’t understand why the wouldn’t only fit it with the additional component if necessary. Having said that I didn’t check to see if it unplugs from the PCB.

[Twoten]

Is the depth of 30cm of your cabinet from the wall to the front of the door or is it the depth of the actual housing with an additional 18mm for the door?

[Twoten]

Cheers Dave.

[Twoten]

Thanks for the info Dave,
I missed a digit out of the model. It should be MT61275AC PNC:91609746700
There were no insulation faults.
How can I get in to service mode to check which of the above is relevant?

[Twoten]

electrofix wrote:should have done a google search first
look here
https://www.partselect.com/Models/MAH3000BGW/
you can see the paddle and looks like self taps into the plastic
Dave

Cheers Dave,
I Googled the problem, didn’t think to look at the parts breakdown which should have been obvious.

Hollytree_Technical wrote:you may not be aware but a lot of these Maytag washers have got a fluid filled balance ring on the front of the tub – this is always full of fluid (not water) and will give a sloshing sound when turned by hand and is not a fault.
If it is a non drain error code then check the pressure bell for blockage – There are 2 possible locations for the pressure switch
1. It could be mounted on top of the drain pump housing.
2. If it has the pressure switch in the back of the control panel attached to a hose into the back of the tub then what you will need to do is to disconnect the pipe from the pressure switch and pull it back down through the machine till it is only entering the tub, now remove one of the rear paddles from inside the drum, now you should be able the bell and hose (it is one piece of rubber) through the hole behind the paddle and out of the front of the machine.
Jem

Jem, great advice, I didn’t realise this machine has a fluid filled balance ring, it is just the sloshing noise. The owner (tenants) haven’t reported any errors codes so think it might be just the noise.
If it does come back again the pressure bell is the second one so now I know how to get access to it.
Thanks.

[Twoten]

Hi Dave,

Having accessed the diagnostics I found the last error was an E73 as you suspected.
Traced the wires from the NTC and found there was a fracture inside the insulation which is why I still had a reading from the PCB when tested.
I will get the replacement harness’s on order.

Thanks again Dave.

[Twoten]

Hi Dave,
I’ve had this on a machine before. I tested the NTC from the PCB so assumed the wiring harness to the NTC was OK. I also carried out a visual inspection but not under the tape so it’s possible the wire could be giving an intermittent fault.
The user didn’t report a fault code either.
If you can send the tech info on how to get into the diagnostics it would be appreciated, at least I can see if there was a fault code.
I will PM my email address to you.
Thanks.

[Twoten]

I’ve spoken to the customers wife since, she said her husband is still using the same creams as before.
When I fitted the first one I warned them the door seal could not be guaranteed if the same thing happens.
Again I have explained the same will apply this time.

[Twoten]

Thanks Dave,

When I replaced it originally I checked with BSH but they couldn’t find a grease resistant alternative. I have checked their parts list against this machine and only the stndard version is listed.

I know petroleum based products will cause a problem but wondered if coconut oil would do the same?

[Twoten]

neon_3SP_glow wrote:Not familiar with the model, but have had similar problems on other machines IF they have a wire mesh filter – where the drying chamber attatches to the tub.

gets clogged and reduces airflow.

Thanks neon_3SP_ glow I removed the condenser to clean and checked in the connector to the tub but there wasn’t a mesh on this one.

The resistance of the dryer NTC measued 51kΩ at room temperature and 11.88kΩ following dryer cool down after cancelling the dry cycle when it was still quite warm.

I’m struggling to find any other information on this machine that helps.

[Twoten]

There’s information relating to this here: https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forums/forum/trade-member-forums/trade-technical-spare-parts-forums/trade-technical-enquiries/91348-bosch-dishwasher-heat-pump-failed-prematurely

According to technical the Care product is the Dishwasher cleaner 00311565.

[Twoten]

That’s odd, when I looked last week I didn’t see the fixing kit in the picture. I called tech support and they said it was just the pump and tech blurb that stated this may look different to original but is a suitable replacement. No suggestion of the fixing kit (mounts and screws) I asked them about and they double checked against the part number and model as well.
I managed to have a hunt round and found an alternative model with the same pump fitting then found the part number 00425075. I called BSH who are sending the kit out FOC.

The original pump was like the more common fixing where the top locked either side of the metal panel and the bottom was held in place by a small screw.
The plate it fixed to had the four holes to take the rubber mounts but were unused.

The hose pushes inside the pump outlet port, sealed by an ‘O’ring like the dishwasher drain hoses and locks in place with tabs moulded into the hose. Squeezing the tabs at the same time as pulling the hose (with three hands) removes the hose. It is then a simple push fit to refit.

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