[Twoten]

Re: Bosch WAE24469GB/14 Door seal 2 in 3 years

The drum looks true when rotated and I can’t feel any play in it in any direction.

The door seal on this machine has a large lip that rolls into the drum by about 1/2″ and sits about 1″ smaller diameter so sits 1/2″ away, inside the lip of the drum (I think that makes sense).
It appears that after some time the bottom section of the lip curls down and then touches the inner drum.

One thought was the customer overloads and then leave the washing sitting on the lip when it’s finished but she says she’s careful about the load, never goes out and leaves so takes the washing out as soon as it finishes because the end warning bleeps drive her mad!

[Twoten]

Re: JLBID0906 Circular fan oven element not switching off.

Returned to customer, she noticed over the weekend that even without the oven being selected the element in the back started to glow red.
It looks as if the supply to the oven comes on intermittently so will override the temperature setting anyway.
Being intermittent would explain why originally it worked on conventional oven and not fan assisted.
I have confirmed the PCB is obsolete.

[Twoten]

Re: JLBID0906 Circular fan oven element not switching off.

Martin wrote:

Twoten wrote:
I guess it has to be the PCB that’s gone.

Guessing can be dangerously expensive though so I recommend changing the sensor (and connecting lead if necessary) first. The much cheaper option and if the fault remains THEN advise replacing the Control PCB in the full and certain knowledge that at least is really wasn’t the sensor….if you catch my drift? 😉

I agree but I was working on the basis that according to the customer the conventional oven was working OK which suggests the sensor is OK.
Having said that I had a call from the customer to say that the conventional oven is overheating as well so that blows that idea out the window!

The other problem is it looks as if the PCB is obsolete, this has been mentioned on a couple of other threads here and it doesn’t show up on the parts list. The only option if that is the case is QER and then there’s no guarantee they can repair it so changing the probe on the off chance with a possibility it’s the board, then an additional cost to send the PCB away, have it checked to find it can’t be repaired isn’t great.

I am going to go back to this and take another look paying particular attention to the PT500 probe. Does anyone know what resistance I should expect across the probe?

[Twoten]

Re: JLBID0906 Circular fan oven element not switching off.

repman wrote:you have not said but have you done an insulation test?
the fan element can be duff.

Insulation test is OK, not even a slight fault.

[Twoten]

Re: JLBID0906 Circular fan oven element not switching off.

Thanks Martin,
I thought this was the case.
I guess it has to be the PCB that’s gone.

[Twoten]

Re: beko error codes

Hi,
Sorry to resurrect an old post but I have just come across the same fault as this.
When turned on door locks straight away indicator lights stay on and nothing else happens.
holding the start/pause button in for 3 seconds doesn’t cancel.

What was found to be the problem with this one?

[Twoten]

Re: Moral Dilemma…What would you do?

Alex wrote:Another one for the Sh*t Happens occasion.

But why are the odds greater that it will happen when you’re either doing someone a favour or doing a job you were hesitant to take in the first place? :rolls:

[Twoten]

Re: Moral Dilemma…What would you do?

Thanks for the suggestions guys, to bring this to a conclusion:

Unfortunately I think the module was beyond a track repair. No display, pump runs constantly, not anti flood switch.
EMW will only repair the Bosch D/W modules if it’s a heating problem.

When this happened I explained exactly what had caused it(I wouldn’t lie about it) and suggested a couple of options:
1) I remove the part and hope I can use it on another job in the future and not charge for it.
2) I offered to split the cost of the replacement PCB.

My friend said he would cover the cost of the module and accepted it was ‘one of those things’ and not my fault there was a foreign object in the machine. I still maintained I would cover half the cost.

My friend has a relation that works for Bosch (Office worker I think) so was going to see if he can get a better discount.

I spoke to him yesterday and it turns out his relation can get a very good discount on a new machine and would prefer to go down this route.

I have told him I will remove the part fitted and not charge for it, he insists on paying for it still…… I still won’t take anything for it.

Thanks again guys,
Keith.

[Twoten]

Re: Top or bottom, you decide.

Martin wrote:Be that as it may I would like someone to explain the procedure adopted when deciding to change an Instantenious heater unit by flipping the machine upside down. Where do you start, what bits do you remove?? 😕

As requested.

‘Unplug’.
Remove top and sides.
Drain sump.
Invert.
Place small container to catch water under side chamber breather hole.
Remove plastic bottom front panel (if free standing).
Unscrew and pull forward lower front metal panel.
Remove door tension cords.
Undo 4 screws holding plastic base to frame.
Put screwdriver or similar through hole for float arm to lock it up in place.
Lift base enough to gain access.
Unclip the connector blocks in base can give more room.
Remove screws and wires/cable on instantaneous water heater.
Undo hose clip to pump.
Remove instantaneous heater.
Reassemble in reverse order.

When reassembling make sure the rubber motor straps are hooked on the pegs in the base and the red float shaft is located correctly.

Obviously protect the floor.

This method can be a bit fiddly when you lift the base up leaving the rest of the components on the tank, you wonder if it will go back down again but it’s easier than you imagine. It’s no worse than lifting and inverting the sump to remove the heater.

Using this method saves having to:

Remove Decor panel.
Remove Front panel.
Remove Door.
Removing upper/lower baskets.
Undo salt reservoir cap and large retaining nut.
Undoing top spray arm tube.
Removing Tank.
Deciding where the hell you’re going to put this lot in a small kitchen while trying to repair a dishwasher.

If you don’t have to take it apart you don’t have to put it back together. Admittedly there is a greater chance you may have to disconnect the inlet/drain hoses if inverting but not always.

Inverting the machine does not mean you lose the contents of the rinse aid or the entire contents of the regeneration unit (even with gravity).

I use both methods depending on the installation, kitchen size and what mood I’m in.

Martin, try it, you never know, it might not be the daftest thing you’ve ever heard!

Edit: Check base for foreign objects like copper olives. 😳

[Twoten]

Re: Moral Dilemma…What would you do?

bazza500 wrote:Might want to grab this as it’s the cheapest I can find.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Neff- … 19d6a372e7
Thanks for finding this, I will look into it and thanks to some of you for the advice.

[Twoten]

Re: Moral Dilemma…What would you do?

As already noted, the machine was unplugged.

Younger engineer, you don’t know what you’re talking about.

I don’t usually turn machines upside down but this method came from these forums, the point of which to get help and advise on different ways of completing repairs I hadn’t realised Martins tips are the only ones that should be followed else the risk of being flamed!

I won’t ask the age or length of experience of the engineer that posted this originally!

Side panels and lid were removed but floor unlikely to be damaged as protective sheets were used.

Maybe you should try to be a little more helpful and constructive instead being unnecessarily rude, sarcastic and jumping to wrong conclusions Martin?!

[Twoten]

Re: Moral Dilemma…What would you do?

I take on board what you say but, I have replaced quite a few in the past following the suggestion in these forums (maybe from about 6 years ago) without any problems. The small amount of water that has come out of the machine is caught in a container placed under the ‘water-inlet system’, I would be very surprised if the complete contents of the regeneration unit drained out. If this unit did empty it’s contents everywhere then I would have thought I’d need a pair of wellies!

I would also point out that the only reason there was a problem was not due to water which you seem to be so concerned about but due to a copper olive, not part of the machine something that nobody could have foreseen or accounted for!

[Twoten]

Re: Moral Dilemma…What would you do?

This machine doesn’t have a pressure switch hose, the pressure switch is like an inverted tube on the metering tank. I always drain the sump to prevent water running back into this or onto the floor.

[Twoten]

Re: Moral Dilemma…What would you do?

Hi Martin,
Glad to have made your day.
If you look through these forums there are several threads that describe replacing these heaters by turning the machine upside down. I have replaced many both ways. I accept it’s not difficult to remove the tub but in a Kitchen with restricted space completely dismantling a dishwasher, having a door laid out on a floor while you work round it and lift a tub off is not always the best option (having said that it would have been in this case).
Maybe I’ve been lucky in the past that know body else has left an olive in the base!

[Twoten]

Re: Beko DC563W Main oven over heat thermostat.

That’s great thanks, I was concerned as the picture on Connect looked different.

[Author]

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