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Re: Slot it or free standing
madrat wrote:Beko arived today, and its apsoloutly fantastic, did a rost, perfect, did some backing, perfect. Cheap is not always nasty.
I have worked on more Beko cookers than you will have hot dinners from yours….. and yes it is 😉
We dont get kickbacks on here from manufacturers and we know from frequency of breakdowns,customers complaints about appliances and the quality of the appliance inside when its taken apart to make our judgements, if people want honest opinions then they can come on here, if they dont then they can go to their nearest national chainstore and be sold any old rubbish from their sales person.Re: Slot it or free standing
madrat wrote:Wish I had your budgets, :rolls:
However here in the real world
:rolls:Its the real world we are telling you about, whats the point in asking experts opinions if you dont like what you hear ?There are no good cheap cookers, in fact there arent even any average/half decent cheap cookers anymore.
Its the way the market has gone with people just wanting cheaper and cheaper stuff.
Beko is as good as any out there at the moment but dont take that as a recommendation because they are crap aswell.
In my eyes decent freestanding cookers start at Range size and even then just from Rangemaster upwards.
Re: Slot it or free standing
madrat wrote:😯 £350 cheap. 😕
No £350 = very cheap these days, no standard size gas cooker on the market worth buying in my opinion.
For a couple of hundred more I would get a Rangemaster …. or you could get one in a couple of years when you realise you wasted your money on the one you got, for the Belling its either going to be a rebadged Beko or a rebadged New World/Stoves cooker either way it will be rubbish and you will wish you had bought the Rangemaster, Belive me I have worked for both companies for 5 years + in the past, Rangemaster is far superior.
No need for the lug anymore so just remove it from the cookerit was just there to make sure the fan was fitted correctly, just grab it with a pair of grips and remove it.
Re: Stoves
matmo wrote:Thanks for the quick replies.
The model no. is 058552074
serial no. 00707718
How much for an engineer to repair (approx) as I dont wanna get ripped off
Thanks againIts 7 years and 1 month old 😀
Price wise its down to what your local blokes charge.
Stoves call out is around 80 quid plus parts.
Re: Electric v LPG?
ajn1982 wrote:Hi
We’re considering a new oven, and both electric and LPG are possible. Which is cheaper to run?
Thanks!Oven or cooker ? if its just an oven I would do what kwatt said as its far easier for a start, if it was a cooker I would not have all electric myself but thats just personal choice.
Re: Electric v LPG?
ajn1982 wrote:Thanks, v helpful. A couple of thoughts:
– We’ve got an LPG supply already (currently got an LPG hob). Presumably in this case our installation costs would be lower? We’d need a gas engineer to connect up I know, but the new electricity legislation requires us to use an electrician to connect up an electric oven if it’s to go into a fixed (fused) point.
– What maintenance costs would LPG incur?
– I note you say electricity is cheaper to buy – do you know by how much?
Many thanks!On a hob the only electric hob I would consider is ceramic, most hobs come with the injectors in the box for conversion (but beware just swapping injectors is never a proper conversion a bypass screw will also need adjusting) the cost of a gas hob will be less but fitting costs will be more so swings and roundabouts here, having said that I would always go for gas for a hob, I just dont like electric hobs.
Re: Stoves
matmo wrote:Hi, I have a stoves electric cooker, not sure of the model no. but it is approx 7 yrs old. The hob ang grill work fine but the fan in the oven is just kicking out cold air. Have left it on for about half hour but no heat at all. Any help much appreciated, thanks.
Whats the serial no: ? I can tell you how old it is with that.
Re: Candy OVG505
kwatt wrote:
You shouldn’t have to whack it up to full then come back to the temp required, no. The temperature should be attained and then regulated..Thats what I am saying yes.
Re: Candy OVG505
r600a wrote:Hi WSTS
Sorry but the thermostats work on air temprature within a metal box,The air temprature can be reached fairly quickly due to the oven flame being on full when the temprature is selected then once the air temprature is reached the thermostat goes into the letby stage.Once you open the door the temprature will rise very quickly and allow the thermostat to allow full gas flow.
If you want the best results from cooking you pre heat so that the whole oven including the metal box has reached the temprature not just the air.
If you allow the thermostat to Not pre heati then this is the cause of food burning on the bottom with the base type burner (continental),And the back of food burning when you have the OVG505 type of burner at the rear.
BryanAt no point have I said an oven doesnt need a pre-heat, what you dont have to do is put your oven on FULL to acheive this, I know pretty well how a gas oven works as more than 1 major manufacturer uses me for escalated calls, you will note in my last post that I put that an oven will settle after 15-25 mins that was taking into accout heat loss and absorbtion from around the oven casing on initial heat up, eg: all these things have to be taken into account on re-calibrating a gas thermostat which could not be done properly if done within first ten to 15 mins of an oven being turned on.
Re: Candy OVG505
kwatt wrote:
wsts wrote:
Ovens dont need to be pre-heated on full for 20 mins, as for a start this would mean automatic cooking would be a waste of time, simply turning the thermostat to the highest gas mark then back to the mark you require will be enough to put the thermostat in the approximate calibrated position.Fan ovens, sometimes no. Non fan ovens, always. In gas ovens you always need to pre-heat and most of the cheap ones are utter, utter rubbish.
I think you misread what I was saying, it was stated that gas ovens always had to be pre-heated on FULL for 20 mins, this is infact untrue as a gas oven will usually settle at the required cooking temperature in between 15 to 25 minutes there is no need to set the oven at full rate at all.
Sorry but as a cooker specialist who has done literally hundreds of black ball tests and calibrated just as many gas thermostats its just not true, the oven will hit the temp target whether its pre heated at full or not, the reason for turning past the desired setting and back again is so that the stat “lands” in the correct position , simply turning a stat to the desired position rather than past it and back again can throw the stat out as much as 20 C (bearing in mind that stats are already +/- 15 to 20 c dependant upon manufacturer),if they had to be pre-heated to cook at the req. temp what would be the point of having cookers with automatic timers ? there wouldnt be any.
