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It should be a reputation now in tatters but people still keep buying `em, its like the lemming syndrome aka 1.5ltr Audi/Skoda/VW/Seat engine management failure – kangarooing and konking out across a junction – not good for the health and neither was the upgrade – that doesn`t work either!! If spending big bucks you do your research well, obviously some people don`t.
I can assure you that the Bosch/Neff/Siemens element/heat pump motor is a pile of tosh ( under reply rules I`m being polite ). Whatever you think I can tell you this tale which was the final straw: built in Bosch d/w took ages to get the bugger out because the pipes had to be disconnected behind the plastic copper pipes that made a 1970`s Soviet submarine look sane! Heat pump fitted pushed back in refitted hoses ran on test for less than 3 minutes and the fault reoccured took out trip switch, heater screwed. Ahhhhh a pile of junk. That was not an isolated problem which is why I gave up on dishwashers which was at the time 35{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of my business and I lost 500 or so quid over it in a very short space of time, parts over x months old went they failed – crap part suppliers and the parts were all in sealed Bosch boxes too some were from Bosch uk – got my money back on those. .
Your comment on the 200 quid currys best effort has some merit, however all I can say is they, historically, were the least troublesome contraptions being basically fairly simple, but they were never perfect and still aren`t though 14 year old Proaction is still going t`other side of the road. I just went to a fair number due to the general dishwasher “curse of the cocktail stick broken glass” problems but then that can happen to any dishwasher and often does.
Modern / current Hotpoint and Indesit dishwashers. Crap motor pumps and equally crap heaters. PCB failures fairly common, blow when heater fails too sometimes. Dreadful ghastly stuff.
10 year freebee parts warranties. As Dave mentioned you only get the part if the company fits it. If you know or suspect the heater is nuked, the motor is nuked or the machine went electrically bang ( pcb more than likely ) it is worth….possibily depending how old it is when it screws up….. getting them out at 115 /120 quid a pop for your new free part which unless they changed their warranty whilst I was not looking only gets 3 months on the repair. So the freebee parts warranty is of only limited use. For all other faults keep gob shut because you can invalidate your existing warranty especially if you tell them when you complain about it: ” you vill go on zee list! ” and call out local repair bod on a free callout ( I still do free callouts – washing machines mostly – but then I have no / very few overheads with my micro business ) to find out what is wrong.
Posher dishwasher brands can be cheaper machines rebadged with rip off spares to match but that is down to sites like this and people doing their homework before throwing their money about.
Nope. I stand by what I said and have done what I said and dishwashers are band from my house. The last one I had was a second hand 1970`s LS12 Indesit to about 1991. That was a good machine by the way but like everything out there it had its achillies heel/s. I used to work for Indesit for 15 years…twice!
20 year old+ dishwashers you are toying with fate there. They were very good machines back then with quality parts. Those days have gone as have many spares gone obsolete which is why I would not chase its repair on costly parts then find out something else jacks and that other part is obsolete.
Hopefully your new machine will be fine and you get many trouble free years out of it.Just go on to AEG`S own spares site. Type in the product code in full begins with a 9. Find the electrical odd and sods where you will discover a model number to match your machine to check, part location drawings part number and prices.
You know what I would do? Frankly I would not have bothered 1) repairing it and 2) replacing it. Fed up with buying compromised stuff these days nothing but hassle, trouble and expense.
If I was forced to buy a new dishwasher I`d go for a Currys Essentials at 200 quid which, strangely enough, when I did do dishwasher repairs until I gave-up in disgust, I found them to be more reliable than Bosche`s best efforts and just take my chances. The Bosch models suffer from heater failure ( fault code e09 ) and again and sometimes yet again. Poor quality part.
I would not buy a Miele – rip off spares prices and you may need them rather quicker than you`d think despite all the hype.
You do not necessarily get what you pay for any longer but on the other hand there is a lot of dross out there as there are very good value for your spons tooInitially it sounds like a fractured drum spider to me and if so a complete new tank assembly but maybe under 10 year freebee parts warranty and if so use it. BUT common and not so common cock-ups with these things in no particular order of hoplessness are: front weights break/crack or simply come loose – quite common. Top weight comes loose- possible but not that common, drum pulley spoke fracture ( not too common that one ), chassis splits under damper legs ( though that is a ticking noise but very common ), plastic tank splits around bearing tube usually visible near pulley ( had that one a few times ). Typical of any C21st product and that is it is compromised and prematurely fails. So some pointers to check.
To check for a fractured spider arm: each of the 3 drum paddles line up with the 3 spider arms which of course you cannot see. Using your thumbs hold as much as possible through the back of the door seal the plastic tank still ( as the whole plot is on springs ) and with the other fingers push down on the drum at each 3 points or fingers in what order suits you. Any movement in the drum relative to the tank indicates a duffy spider. If the fracture is near the hub, that is the thickest bit, this suggesttion might not work. You`ll just have to pull the bugger out and go over these listed pointers.Don`t do that! I`ll probably leak badly on re-assembly though if you have by now gone ahead and disassembled your advised to seal with a decent glue. It is easier to bend the semi transparent sump hose retaining upright 2 lugs in order to pull out the hose from the sump`s hose`s nozzle and attack it from there on as a first thing attempt. Hopefully it will be this non return valve that is semi blocked.
Possible blockage in the hidden pump out non return valve: see Siemens website/spares drawing number 0431 part number 00611320 £16.95.
Pain in the arse to get at but then its a Bosch/Siemens!!Though could could be an iffy moulded plug, or the suppressor where the mains cable comes into the machine.
Common part failures on this model that causes basal water leaks in no particular order. Number noted here refers to the part item ref Bosch`s website part pages these are not part numbers but location numbers. 1) page 4: water bung seal 0458, fairly common problem. Impellor and motor shaft seal kit 0456 – look for severe aluminium oxide deposit on wash motor frame. Pressure chamber 0410 – this gets blocks up and the water backs up and leaks out on fill out the top of the red emergency float. The pressure chamber`s transparent hose to the sump 0415 – very commonly this hose gets blocked up with food debris and on fill the water backs up and leaks out from the pressure chamber. The O ring set 0427 this is not a common problem source of leakage but not unknown. Page 2. lower door seal 0242 – this gets old and deforms, quite common. Page 3 rubber goal post door seal 0331. Page 5 outlet hose 0510. can go brittle and crack where it exits the machine.
Ok these are some pointers common and the not so common. Some of the jobs, especially if you have no experience of these Bosch`s finest can be a bitch to work on. Best bet is to turn power off remove outer white metal fascia panel – that will allow you to see the lower door seal, then remove metal front base cover part 0330 page 3 to see water seal bung, wash motor, and the semi transparent pressure chamber to sump hose . For the other suff you have to remove the w/top and l/h/s panel.
Hope this helps.Yep, not surprised as I supposed, another bloody Miele rip off price yet again. Frankly I do not know how these *ankers got away with it to be honest ( Siemens being another one ); I suppose it is because they can and do and 80 years ago did. There is a mystic and lore created around this brand rather like De Beers created for themselves ( I used to work in the diamond but mostly in colour gemstone testing but that is another story from 40 + years ago ) but it is nearly all bull manure if anyone took the trouble to scratch off the venere. Miele`s only saving grace is that nearly everything else is less reliable in comparison though most of that stuff, relative the retail cost, is just about worth fixing so long as your repairer is not a smart arse and is also trying to rip you off. And yet it dawned on me decades ago to avoid appliances or rather keep appliance ownership to the absolute minimum and that is 37 years on and counting: gas cooker ( for reliability, now soon to be doomed by the eco righteous wayward Leftie WOKE thug squad ), washing machine, microwave oven and perhaps a tumble.dryer, preferably all recon secondhand or even, shock horror, new but fairly cheap and affordable and, let`s be honest, expendable should things take a very serious nose dive. The number of posh houses ( big and expensive with a big and worrying mortgage, 2{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} interest rate rise before financial disaster type of worry ) go to where they have every mod con under the sun…and it all goes wrong = pay out and even more paying out; unbelievable amounts of time and expense: if it is not the under floor heating getting screwed one week next week is the upper range Bosch throwing a hissy fit, next week it`s the sodding dishwasher, then 2 weeks after that the eco friendless boiler yet again takes out its pcb, then the audio visual stuff ( thats TV to you and me or rather it would be if I actually had a TV which luckily, and by all accounts, I cleverly avoided )……………….and not a book in sight which I suppose is just as well, no time to read anything important execpt the Daily Oppessor`s ( that is the Daily Telegraph! ) share page and Property Weekly, so how sad is all that? The number of “BlueBlood`s” manor houses I have been to over the years where most stuff is secondhand, but that is good stuff secondhand, whether it be a humble Indesit washing machine or an ancient ASEA bought new and now has more string, bits of bamboo, unoriginal parts than original ( now obsolete ) parts to keep the old girl going and a cheap newish Chinese dishwasher is not that uncommon.Sadly I have yet to gain access to a day in their airy library but I`m working on that one!
1)What is the part number in full of the pump you bought 2) and from where i.e. company name of the supplier.3) model number in full of your machine 4) supply a photo of your new pump if you like. The numbers on the original pump is not necessarily the part number used for retail sales.
I think it`ll be the heating element to earth. What I would be inclined to do is to phone up Miele spares and check that the part is still available before calling anyone out as I have a feeling the part is not available. A lot of Miele parts disappear at a certain age which varies with the weather! In other words if that part is obsolete or if not ask how much the part is; you then have the information. Last old Miele I went to ( before I gave up on all dishwasher repairs ) the heater cost 200 quid but cannot remember whether that was the whole job or just the part ( £35 was my labour charge so subtract or add as you fancy ). I cannot help you with info on your Miele new potential machine purchase but as mentioned the curse of the Bosch is the wash / heater motor unit ( the heat pump ) which can fail and fail again so avoid Bosch like the Bubonic Plague if I was you. Basically boils down that I distrust all dishwashers whether cheap and certainly expensive ones. Maybe someone else on the site can help you more with your Miele question recommendation?
Well difficult from the end of a computer can be difficult onsite! So pointers only. I`d have a look at the work you have already done before doing anything more otherwise you will start chasing rainbows. Presume the water level is correct? Presume the wash motor comes on and sounds normal- that bit is important, if the water level is not enough change the pressure switch? The part you mention as thermostat is not on the parts breakdown as a thermostat!! If you fitted part 140000401061 that is a turbidity sensor not a thermostat since the actual thermostat/s as far as I can tell are part of the heater unit that you fitted part number 140002162232.
What you then want to do is to check the wires from the pcb to the heater, so remove the decor wood door and remove the outer metal door panel. Where the wires can break is where where they stick to the tar noise insulation and sometimes where the wires disappear under that plastic cover on the right. Failing that then have a look at the pcb for a unsoldered/dry joint on one of the relays. If there is one at least that should be it if it all visually looks normal = a big delema since a preconfigured pcb is listed at £136 part number 973911539139056. Only thing I can suggest. Do not buy anything as yet as perhaps someone else may add another suggestion.
