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Viewing 15 posts - 1,471 through 1,485 (of 2,140 total)
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  • in reply to: Diplomat ADP 3650 #244603
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Diplomat ADP 3650

    Have you tried MFI? They are the main supplier of Diplomat appliances. They should be able to get you another book quite easily. 😉

    HTH,

    Steve.

    in reply to: No Power – Hotpoint BWD 129 #244606
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: No Power – Hotpoint BWD 129

    If it’s popped the ring main RCD trip and now won’t restart then the PCB is a prime candidate. Call the manufacturer – it’ll be worth every penny.
    Not good really…14 months….not fit for purpose, methinks…. 😉

    Steve.

    in reply to: Fridge on strike #243794
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Fridge on strike

    Err – Yes – but providing the heater is disconnected completely – ie:- both wires – and the wiring insulated carefully. It must be stressed that this is not recommended and is, at best, a “sticking plaster” type repair and must be corrected at the earliest opportunity. Get your local spares dealer to source you one of the stats mentioned without delay. (the Whirlpool W4 should be readily available in AU / NZ).

    Power off before any work starts. :plug:

    HTH,

    Steve.

    in reply to: Fridge on strike #243792
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Fridge on strike

    The 2 tag Danfoss unit is for a fridge with an icebox. Your fridge doesn’t have an icebox in the same cavity so it is referred to as a larder fridge in the UK; where before fridges we had cold cupboards (usually under the stairs) where food could be kept cooler than the surrounding house. This cupboard was called a larder – hence the reference. End of History lesson. 😉
    You need to obtain the correct stat with the number 3,4 and 6 tags. Ranco K59, a VT9, Danfoss No. 3, or Whirlpool W4 will suffice.
    To leave the defrost heater disconnected is not really the answer: although the fridge will actually function. It is far better to obtain the correct part and do it right.

    Power off before any inspection! :plug:

    HTH,

    Steve.

    in reply to: wma #244057
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: wma

    If the suspension pivot pegs are difficult to tap in then they are usually very worn. The wear can be felt as a ridge where the insulating rubber grommet at the end of the suspension strut normally sits. The only answer is new pivot pegs. One thing I’ve found over the years is that if a component that came off a machine needs to be modified to refit it; then it is either knacked – or something is causing it not to fit.
    Trying to bash in ridged pivots will usually end in disaster……. 😥

    HTH,

    Steve.

    in reply to: ARE QUALTEX SHOPS TRADE ONLY #243514
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: ARE QUALTEX SHOPS TRADE ONLY

    Qualtex South West still have a “Strictly trade only” sign outside ATM. I think they are sticking to that ruling too AFAIK.
    Long may it continue…… 😉

    Steve.

    in reply to: Zanussi FS1555W blown PCB. #243510
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Zanussi FS1555W blown PCB.

    Hi Chris!!

    I have meggar’d the motor on each connection – checks out OK. 😕 Armature to body OK; brushes to body OK and connections to body all OK – but I must say I am not totally happy to plug on a PCB costing that much to watch a spectacular firework display. These “all – in – one” boards are absolute rubbish. 🙁

    Steve.

    in reply to: SMEG SP7800P – Is it the element? #243485
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: SMEG SP7800P – Is it the element?

    Try the clock – it may be set on auto. Check your manual for setting procedure – if you don’t have the manual post the type of clock you have and we can advise you on how to set it.
    The clock automatic will only control the fan oven function and not the grill. This could be all that is wrong with your machine. 😉

    Hope that helps,

    Steve.

    in reply to: Siemens SE65E330GB #243505
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Siemens SE65E330GB

    Hi Lawrence!! :waving:

    Possibly dry joints on the PCB under the heater relay? Worth a look!!

    Steve.

    in reply to: Baumatic BFD 62W #242939
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Baumatic BFD 62W

    Part number – 012G2160236 – around £4 + VAT.

    Hope that helps,

    Steve.

    in reply to: White Knight 42ASNC TD front drum seal #243079
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: White Knight 42ASNC TD front drum seal

    Connect part number – 5031689356770 – £5.95 + VAT. In stock.
    This seal has a brush edge.

    Hope that helps,

    Steve.

    in reply to: Beko D3422FS #243145
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Beko D3422FS

    The motor and pump are supplied as one assembly. £60 + VAT cost.

    HTH

    Steve.

    in reply to: Bosch SGS45E02GB PCB? #243028
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Bosch SGS45E02GB PCB?

    Cheers, Greg!
    I’ll spread the glad tidings tomorrow – :rolls:

    Steve.

    in reply to: BSH Changes #242986
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: BSH Changes

    I tried Martin’s trick – put the model number in the box under the GAGGENAU listing – it works!!
    Until they destroy that too…….back to the bad old days of no info on Bosch spares. 👿

    Steve.

    in reply to: LG WM1485FHD programme help. #242806
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: LG WM1485FHD programme help.

    Thanks Brian!!
    You do learn something everyday!! It is always useful to know how to fill and empty a machine after a repair quickly and easily.

    Cheers for all the replies!! 😀

    Steve

Viewing 15 posts - 1,471 through 1,485 (of 2,140 total)