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You may have to pay up for an engineer on this one.
This is a frost free appliance so unless you want to get involved in removing the evaporator cover, checking the ice build up, defrost heaters, air vents, fan etc I would recommend calling your local engineer. (most local engineers are cheaper than Electrolux).Finally remember if you are going to defrost the appliance 24 hours may not be long enough, the ice build up may be a few inches thick and ice cube consistancy.
be safe switch off if your going to get tools out!.
hi verne
yes 5 will be the coldest setting.
You have not put the model number so I cannot say if the stat is independant of the freezer. It depends on the type of fridge freezer.Take drum bearing off, feed belt around drum, take front fan off, feed belt around it, take 2 jockey roller bolts off, put the rear bolt on and use a screwdriver to tension the belt around it and fit the front screw in. 15 min job.
Pull the appliance out, take the two screws out from either side of the front plastic trim.
From behind the cooker take the rear screws holding both side pannels in.
Carefully pull the side pannels away from the body of the appliance until you have enough room to remove the two screws in each side holding up the ceramic hob.
Pull the hob back and it should be free.Hope this helps, this way you dont need to take the side pannels off.
Re: ISE and why I am reluctant
Yes I sell ISE appliances and have thought it would beneficial to be allowed into the ISE trade forum to discuss some of the techinical problems..
Why not make it open to everyone?I would have loved to have been proved wrong when I worked for manufactures but I never met a decent female white goods engineer.
Obviously I was too scared to voice my opinion then.had one of these do this when i worked for comet, replaced the pressure pot and seemed to cure it. My thinking was the the blocked pressure pot causes the high fill microswitch to stay on activating the heater.
hi bluejack you really dont need a bearing puller kit. I knock the bearings in until you can hear the bearing is fitted against the bearing housing you will know its in the correct position.
I have done hundreds of bearings on the wma range and never had a problem knocking them in.
In fact the only problem I have had is using a puller kit and the bearing not going in far enough against the housing.no these rubber spacers are part of the transit bolts and are meant to be removed with the bolts, its just coincidental that this fixes the fault, although I would have thought it would make an even worse noise! 😕
this does sound like the compressor has failed but to be sure get your meter out and see if its getting 240v to it, if it isnt go for the pcb.
