Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
CJAPeterborough
ParticipantRe: Need some technical help.
You should check the resistance on the heater element first.
There are lots of threads on this and a search should get the info you need
even with pics………..showing how and where to measure.If you have no resistance then the hardware is faulty if OK – likely board problem.
Either way fairly costly to fix unless you get lucky
October 21, 2010 at 12:04 am in reply to: Bosch Classix 1200 WAE24162 – door seal needs replacing? #332794CJAPeterborough
ParticipantRe: Bosch Classix 1200 WAE24162 – door seal needs replacing?
You can see the seal and the spring just below your wrist and the 54 in the concrete!
Quite a good pic(‘:D’) of seal and spring still on the drum……
CJAPeterborough
ParticipantRe: Replacing Suppressor Bosch SGV43A03GB/44
These usually just clip into the rear of the machine.
If you look at the rear power plate there will probably be a gap.
Squeeze this to the right (or left)with a screwdriver and a bit of leverage outwards and it should come out.You will get a schematic on the Bosch site
October 20, 2010 at 6:54 pm in reply to: Bosch Classix 1200 WAE24162 – door seal needs replacing? #332792CJAPeterborough
ParticipantRe: Bosch Classix 1200 WAE24162 – door seal needs replacing?
The pic shows the counter weight retaining strap-you certainly dont want to take this off!
If you have removed the door and the wire hoop that holds the seal in place
around the front porthole the seal is held in a similar fashion with a recessed spring.If you search around the edge of the rubber as it fits to the drum you should
be able to find the point where the spring joins together-should be easy to prize off
-its not as tight as the front retaining wire hoop.The seal then just pulls away……..
Hope this makes sense!
October 14, 2010 at 9:01 am in reply to: Bosch Classix 1200 WAE24162 – door seal needs replacing? #332789CJAPeterborough
ParticipantRe: Bosch Classix 1200 WAE24162 – door seal needs replacing?
As the front panel hangs on plastic lugs either side and needs lifting up slightly I find it easier
to remove if the control panel is pulled away to the side.October 13, 2010 at 9:29 pm in reply to: Bosch Classix 1200 WAE24162 – door seal needs replacing? #332787CJAPeterborough
ParticipantRe: Bosch Classix 1200 WAE24162 – door seal needs replacing?
Average DIY job -you need to remove lid,control panel(soap drawer out then three torx screws plus one more on the rhs),
then door,retaining ring around rubber seal…then remove the rest of the front.this will give you access to the drum.
Watch your fingers on the sharp metal edges they are like razor blades.The part you need is here
Searching the internet will get you prices anywhere from say £10 to £40
depending on quality of the part (ie Bosch original or pattern part)
If you intend to keep the machine then buy the better quality the cheaper ones tend to be a bit thin……..CJAPeterborough
ParticipantRe: Which 1600rpm 8kg washer? Siemens, Panasonic or… ?
imho go for the Siemens-the build quality is probably next best to Miele
and if you keep it for ten years there will be plenty of folk and parts available to fix and service it.
Panasonic is a great brand name but I never even seen one of their washing machines
-thin on the ground=harder for parts and service.Looks a nice piece of kit brushless motor etc but are you a risk taker?!
September 18, 2010 at 11:26 am in reply to: Bosch Logixx KGU32124GB -F/F Fridge Ok Freezer not working #330451CJAPeterborough
ParticipantRe: Bosch Logixx KGU32124GB -F/F Fridge Ok Freezer not worki
I had hoped to get some replies but as it turns out the machine is now
working again.As an update I helped the defrost with a hair dryer and also thoroughly cleaned
the inside cabinets with warm soapy water.Yesterday I lay the machine on its back for about half an hour and then
left upright for a couple of hours.
My logic was based on hoping to redistribute the oil and refrigerent.
I also decided to give the rear valve a bit of a tap…not very scientific
but it made some sense to me if it was sticking?Around lunchtime I switched the machine back on and used the fast freeze
to help the temps go in the right direction.
The fridge got to temp pretty quickly and I also noticed that opening the
freezer door waiting for a few moment until the alarm sounded resulted in
“water down the plughole” kind of noise or gurgling quite loud…
This morning the machine is sitting at stable temps and fully loaded with food.
The gurgling is still evident but is seems to be getting less.It would be nice to know why this really happened but hey its working again!
Hope the above helps others with Bosch F/F problems……….CJAPeterborough
ParticipantRe: bosch SGS43A32 problem
With the machine unplugged see if you can manually turn the vanes on the
rear of the circulation motor with a suitable flat blade screwdriver.Sounds like the main pump is blocked/seized…this may free it.
Next step is pump out and strip down…CJAPeterborough
ParticipantRe: Bosch Logixx SGS09L12GB -wont start or program
As an update I had both upper display board and lower control board
out of the machine today and both look absolutely fine.I suspect the control board is the issue.
Can anyone confirm a reset procedure for the machine?
Any Bosch engineers out there willing to comment??
Anyone…???Looking like a trip to the dump at the moment!
Thanks in advance….
CJAPeterborough
ParticipantRe: Bosch SG569L12GB problem, pictures added
An interesting question to which I have some ideas about?
The pipe from the pressure chamber runs directly into the sump without any kind of non return valve.
This pipe can be at at the lowest point of gravity in the system therefore if food deposits etc get past the filters they will settle in the pipe imho.
I agree that this pipe is regularly flushed but once the machine fills I think there is not much flow through it via the action of the main circulation motor.
Most of the flow will be from sump to spray heads and returned to sump.I doubt that the clogging up is just caused by hard water action.
I have seen a few completely gunged up and foul smelling-certainly contributed to by other factors ie food deposits etc.In reality I think it is a combination of the two.
It is a known weakpoint in the Bosch systems after all if it was just hard water action,
then the inlet pipe with the same flow characteristics would clog up also?CJAPeterborough
ParticipantRe: SGS43C12GB/08 salt sensor
can download the manual here
CJAPeterborough
ParticipantRe: SGS43C12GB/08 salt sensor
Is the salt sensor switched on?
I recall that you can disable the addition of salt with a power on and
reset button B or A? being pressed at the same time.
Again I think they are fairly crude sensor devices and work based on density
If you check the bosch support site for diagrams of your model it mentions
a magnet component just beside the softener unit…maybe this has stuck?CJAPeterborough
ParticipantRe: Bosch WAA28160GB/01 Replacement Drum bearings?
Can someone confirm availability of part and part number etc?
I am worried that this fix may require a complete drum purchase??
ie bearing kit not available……..Searched fairly hard and drawn a blank both for WAA24610GB and WAA28160GB…so far
CJAPeterborough
ParticipantRe: Bosch SGS0922 Pump pulsing when starting
The official part number from the support site is 183639 and £18
2.5uF apparently but best to check. -
AuthorPosts
