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clivejameson
ParticipantRe: CDA CW492 Error Code
Yes it means the main pcb is getting impulses from the flow meter when the inlet valve isn’t switched on….in other words it thinks it’s filling when it shouldn’t be, so either the valve isn’t shutting off or the pcb has let go 😕
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: LG direct drive
Thanks cab, i’ll try it monday morning 😉
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: The ultimate Haynes Manual.
maltheviking wrote:
looks like a Fokker in the background or is the Fokker a Messerschmitt :rotl:
Neither! 😆 Actually it was a 1/4 scale mock-up we assume was used for film work (it’s very detailed but to fly it you’d need to be about 18ins tall to fit in 😯 )
Incidentally, for my 40th it was arranged for me to be the VIP guest at an airshow at The Shuttleworth Collection (Old Warden) which included a sit in this Spit…now if only i’d known how to start the thing 😆
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: LG direct drive
Well….it seems that for some of the production of this model the power card is no longer available 😕
Does anyone have the tech details for confirming against the serial number? Failing that does anyone have the correct contact details for someone in LG who could help please?
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: The ultimate Haynes Manual.
iadom wrote:
Now, does anyone have a spare Spitfire they don’t need. 😆Jim.
Now you come to mention it Jim….. 8)
Until just a few months ago we were sharing our warehouse space with one 😉
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: Look what i’ve found…..
Must have been a lot of iron in the rawl plug? 😉 😆
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: 555
Ok thanks Sean…i’ll rebook a visit and observe the machine at fault (i’ve yet to witness it 😉 ) and give you a call with all the low-down.
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: 555
Unfortunately the problem still exists…i replaced the motor as it was just a little rough, and the fault would not manifest itself whilst running empty…the customer had said the fault occured with small loads so i put it down to OOB sensing made more likely by the slightly roughish motor.(which in all probability was just a motor bedding in new brushes). We’ve hung on to the old motor so if the ISE lads at HQ want a peek we have it.
The new motor is a beauty though, smooth as you like with not a hint of arcing on the brushes, but the customer has now said the problem happens on large loads too now.
Intuition tells me the OOB sensing is too sensitive for some reason which i take it will mean a new pcb?
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: Diplomat ADP 8242 Error
Storm wrote:Any ideas on where to start or failing that what the going rate for someone to take a look at it is?
Well the usual suspects include things like heating elements, wash pumps, dispenser solenoids etc
Just had a thought…IIRC there is a setting for low water pressure/fill rate which can be set by pressing buttons…my tech disc is in the office and not on this pc so i can’t be sure. If you have the book of destructions have a look in there, or failing that penguin45 might have an answer…just give him a little preening or offer a fish 😉 😀
As to charges these vary nationally so try the link below for a UKW approved engineer (signed up to the charter), or ask locally for recommendations 😉
October 1, 2007 at 9:29 pm in reply to: Electrolux slimline dishwasher – locking fill valve up. #229309clivejameson
ParticipantRe: Electrolux slimline dishwasher – locking fill valve up.
No problem 😀
October 1, 2007 at 9:19 pm in reply to: Electrolux slimline dishwasher – locking fill valve up. #229307clivejameson
ParticipantRe: Electrolux slimline dishwasher – locking fill valve up.
Hi Rob
Did you check/clean the horse-shoe shaped hose that loops underneath the pressure pots/syphons? (it drains the machine side of the chambers into the sump)
If there’s no blockage there then pressure switch or harness would be my bet 😉
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: SMEG SE335SS keeps tripping out
Is this on the fan oven setting, and was it the fan element that was replaced?
It may just be that the new element is tripping, sometimes it happens (although normally in the winter when elements have been stored in cold humid warehouses)
It may also be that some wiring is earthing somewhere but IME experience that only happens on old grease-soaked cookers.
If it was replaced only recently then the best bet is to give the repairer another call 😉
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: Whats the most annoying thing customers do?
eastlmark wrote:
Yep someone at the recent UKW meeting told us of a hood now with the motor and works on the outside of the building (air con style) with ducting leading the the cannopy which is just that, a canopy with no works inside.
I’ve seen a similar thing in a Swedish timber-framed house who’s thermal properties were incredible (1.5kW to heat a four bed house!). The house was so airtight it included an extractor fan in the loft that had to run 24hrs a day just to change the air inside. There were ducts from the extractor down to the toilet and bathroom, and one to the cooker hood which had a simple hit-and-miss flap that opened or closed the duct within the hood.
The only drawback to the house design was that because of the draughtproofing a letterbox wasn’t included…just a post box on the outside wall 😯
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: WHIRLPOOL ADG 7550 – HELP PLEASE!
Yes, if water came out of the base then put simply, it’s got a leak 😆
The machine will detect the leak and abort the program.
The only way to find it is to get the base pan off, have towels around and run the machine to see where the leak is. Unplug before taking things apart and no delving while running the machine. As soon as you see water then unplug again and gently tip back at 45o to find the leak…a good look with a torch will usually find it.
Let us know where the leak is and we can advise further, or if you feel out of your depth then click the link below to find a local engineer.
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: Whitegoods Trade Association
Just a suggestion…perhaps the first post should be made a sticky?
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