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Re: Dipolmat – Do all their ovens have a used by date?
Some of these ovens with the basic timer do have a manual setting, little symbol of a hand. Try turning the timer on, if it now works, look for the symbol and turn it to there.
Gotta be worth a try.DP
Re: Diplomat ADP 8322
It’s a Whirlpool machine, the start light will flash, pause, then repeat the flashes. Count the flashes on the start light and post the result here. Someone will translate it to the fault code.
DP
Re: Whirlpool Upright freezer 854937101012
Ok, no real idea as to the cause but what about the door switch? Door dropped slightly and interior light going on and off?
12 nc also brings up a german machine?
DPRe: DIPLOMAT ADP8322
It’s a known problem on the Whirlpool dishwasher. Only cure is a new sieve cover / cover for the pipe to plug into. The bottom spray arm won’t wash properly either with the pipe out as most of the water escapes instead of going through the spray arms.
Once it’s in place it will wash ok again, but make sure the spray arms aren’t blocked.
As to the drying problem, as soon as the program is finished you have to open the dishwasher door to vent the steam (except on turbodry models). If you don’t the steam just condenses back onto glasses and crockery. (They don’t dry plastic items either).
DPRe: PAT Testing
Check your local college, they may offer the Pat Testing course. There is a qualification for it. One of business mates in Scotland went through it a couple of years ago. I didn’t (more’s the pity) but I still have my Pat Tester.
Brian
Re: WHIRLPOOL FRIDGE/FREEZER CLICKING
Sounds like you’ll need a new main pcb to cure the clicking problem.
The red light should go out when you change the filter and press the reset button, it could be yet another problem with the main pcb. (The tri colour led should be green, then turn orange about six weeks before turning red)
DPRe: Not refrigerating Whirlpool S20DRSB33
This is getting quite interesting, especially the bit about the “cistern”.
I’ve previously spoken about the common problem with these machines and if a total defrost doesn’t bring it back to life, then, there is a possiblity that the sensor in the fridge isn’t working properly and that the machine actually “thinks” that the temperature in the fridge is OK, hence no fault being displayed. There is also a possiblity of the main PCB being at fault.
Without actually being at the machine it’s very hard to determine the actual cause. I can only give you an idea based on my experience of working on these machines and my next move, should the defrost not sort it out, would be to change the sensor in the fridge.DP
Re: The reason you can’t give technical information out!
BG test for colourblindness at the interview stage. Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on how you look at it) I suffer from colour defficiency. All this means is I have trouble seeing the numbers in amongst all the different coloured dots, using a different test I have no problems at all.
I have absolutely no problem with a wiring loom with many different colours, so thankfully when I was tested the optician didn’t just go by the stupid colour dot tests. Many employers may be losing decent workers because they are only being subjected to one test which isn’t 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} accurate.
I’ve worked with colour blind people before and most can differentiate between most colours, IIRC they only had trouble with differing shades of the same colour. (Torquoise and the like).
Not sure if this really contributes anything, just wanted to have my say.Brian 😛
Re: Not refrigerating Whirlpool S20DRSB33
Surprised it’s not come up with the “d” error. However, chances are there’s a lump of ice in the damper preventing cold air getting into the fridge section, or ice build up beside the top drawer. (I’m assuming you hear the fan running when you close the door). It’s a very simple setup, a fan blows cold air from the freezer into the fridge and a damper opens and closes to maintain temperature.
Easiest way is to switch off for 24 hours and leave the doors open, this should totally defrost the machine. Start it up and see if it works. If not time for an engineer to check out the damper.
Hope this helps.
DPRe: Whirlpool Arc5531
As far as I remember only the top hinge is different. LH top hinge is part number 481241719231 and RH top hinge is 481241719232. (Unless Whirlpool have changed the numbers again).
Of course you’ll have to find a couple of blanking plugs for the holes in the door when you change the handle over.
Sorry, can’t find a part number for the kit though.DP
Re: Diplomat DW ADP8132
Thanks Ken, digesting it now. 😕
Extremely handy though 😉Thanks. Brian
Re: Diplomat DW ADP8132
Yeah it must be Ken, it’s pre Whirlpool for sure.
Thanks for the help Chris and Ken.
Brian 😀 (Can use my real name now 😛 )
Re: Bauknecht dishwasher – F4 and “tap closed” lig
When it if first switched on it should run the pump and take in some water to flush out the sump. The pump then stops (as does the water intake) and it should then start to fill, if it’s not filling at all you need to check the inlet valve, it’s wiring back to the module and the water supply, If the supply is via and aquastop device, take that hose off and use a standard fill hose. Finally, if still not taking in water, mark up the connections on the module and open the module, see if any tracks are burned out.
DP
Re: Bauknecht dishwasher – F4 and “tap closed” lig
Hard to say Andy, the flow meter has to send 10 pulses a second and the pressure switch tells the module when a set amount of water (think it’s 2 litres IIRC) has entered the machine, module then works out the rate and continues to fill till it’s taken in the right amount of water. If it doesn’t get enough pulses or it takes too long to get the 2 litre indication it aborts.
Check the wiring / connections to the flow meter and module. If still not working it’s most likely the pressure switch.DP
