[electrofix]

light oil may be ok but wd40 apart from being a fire hazard will probably stink the oven out and you dont want to taste wd40

not see one of these but will guarentee the back has got to come off to replace it and to lubricate it if you want to

Dave

[electrofix]

sometimes its the drum itself, sometimes it can be metal strips

dont know with your model

Dave

[electrofix]

thats the idea
am thinking it may be the supressor and by disconnecting the machine we can prove it is or is not the machine

Dave

[electrofix]

have had blockages of fluff if they are used a lot.
remove the fan and check fan blades are not blocked after that check condenser

Dave

[electrofix]

kaibart wrote:I mean 1 ohm across both stats on heater front ntc resistance will be different will be kohms up it will rise or fall I can’t remember

that makes more sense

Dave

[electrofix]

does the valve start as soon as you turn it on

my first thought would be the inlet valve triac on the board

Dave

[electrofix]

its also under guarentee for 2 years

if the element is powered it must be getting hot. unless the power stops to the element or the heater goes open circuit as it heats

Dave

[electrofix]

have you tried with wet clothes in as some later units wont heat without and check the moisture sensors if it has them

Dave

[electrofix]

well the next is a bit of an experiment

unplug and take the lid off

where the mains wire comes in is a supressor

https://www.siemens-home.bsh-group.com/uk/shop-productlist/00623688

find it and disconnect both wires feeding the machine after the supressor, you will be left with the mains wire connected to the supressor and nothing else. then replace the lid, plug it in and see if tripping continues

Dave

[electrofix]

kaibart wrote:You should have about 1 ohm on heater and front ntc when you measure it resistance will move high or low can’t remember full it this happens ntc will be fine more than likely to be pcb then

1 ohm does sound a bit low

Dave

[electrofix]

assume the same fault was there before you changed the heater to its probably correct but

cant find your model no. closest i can get is 31101052 DX C8TRGR-80

if yes then correct heater is part no 40005010

Dave

[electrofix]

its still only a valve
so you can measure the coil and check to see if its powered up or not

Dave

[electrofix]

if its solid its a water problem valve , tap kinked hose etc

if its flashing it can be anything else

Dave

[electrofix]

F12 is a communication fault between the 2 boards

you can check the cable and plugs between them but after that its guess which or both board is faulty and its a hotpoint only job if you cant programme boards

Dave

[electrofix]

have you checked the board relay

may be turning heater on when drum not turning

Dave

[Author]

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