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Re: zanussi fjd1666w not filling with water
l8 is the test procedure for the dryer, its it not possible rather than being at the end of l7 its pickign it up at the beginning of l8 ???
feel free to change pressure switches, no guarantees which if any have gone out, powerbreaker wont be affected by elements going out of parameters, because the difference is so low, its the electronics on the board that get grumpy because its not what they are programmed to ackwnoledge.
in the absesne of a megga, other thing to check is for reduced drainage – can sometimes cause error codes different to what they should be, uve probably checked filter, but also check recirculation pump – and behind drain pump, and the pump sometimes has a rubber flap that can get jammed backwards impeding drain flow
Re: Bosch pcb repair?
whats the bsh price for a new module? or have you got the full ER no?
some of them are less than £80, direct, if you ask for trade disc.
lot less hassle than there back there and back and sending it to and fro to qer. i cant see much change from £60 inc P&P if you try to get it repaired???
Re: Hotpoint WF541P
it would be helpful to know which obvious things you checked, in case there was something daft thats been overlooked
Re: ARISTON A1237 (1200 SPIN) washing machine. Tripped RCD.
first and second lights are supposed to be a “communication error” which means the pcbs arent sending and recieving signals to components. this could be the pcb again, or loose connections, or even a grazed/worn thru cable thats shorted out, causing the trip.
but you do need to ascertain the best you can as to the reason why the pcb failed first time round before wasting money just replacing it.
often theres no visual marks if the pcb software has become corrupted. but corruption doesnt happen quite as often as a popped electronics component. if the old board had failed, then its usually pretty noticeable.
if you know the latter happened then you should have rectified the machines part failure before replacing the board otherwise the same thing will probably happen.
i.e if the door lock goes, it will often blow a capacitor or track on teh pcb, and is noticeable.
usually if the board has become corrupted it will not even show an error code or all the led lights flash the minute you press start.
and also which pcb got replaced? the lower rear one or the fascia one?
Re: Vented Tumble Dryer for outhouse
QW, remember these have sensors on them, mgiht be an issue if it gets colder than 10degrees, so bear that in mind, plus an ise10 is an 8kg load, dont bung everything in there, as customer feedback on the zanussis is that a 6kg load seems to dry a lot faster than a 7lg load, even though a full 7kg load is supposed to be its most energy efficient on paper, it seems to take about an extra 30 minutes to dry as effectively (i get the feelign they are then overloading them slightly tho). but i cant work out the maths on that?!
doesnt sound like it should be an issue for you but thought id keep you informed
Re: zanussi fjd1666w not filling with water
dont blow into the analogic p/s (smaller black one), they dont like it much.
iirc the analogic is what regulates the filling etc, and cuts out various electric bits if something goes down, for safety reasons.
the analogue (big white one) is what is used to measure the amount of fill by varying the level of resistance it gives out, until it gets to either a max or a min.
is the analogue pressure switch a 3 tag or 4 tag? cos if its a 4 tag then it will have a 3-levels and be open/closed in 3 points of pressure and its important to measure it at each level – very difficult to guage when your breathing into it and trying to position the multimeter terminals at the same time.
as odom has said, heater elements both dryer and washing can cause odd error codes like E3*, but ive tended to get e36 as a rule if it was the dryer. thing is, the first few minutes of the cycle the machine will go thru a test run, just because its drainign and pumping means nothing other than ANY component has failed, inc the pcb. its almost like a default safemode so that the machine cant overfill or continue washing etc.
it does not automatically mean the p/s are at fault.
what you have to remember is depending on what part fails, if its gone more than 60secs into the wash, without filling its gonna sense theres no fill, which will give either an E1* or E3* faults. the problem with running the machine without any tags on elements is that you are running a live machine with the risk of :zap: which we would advise you never to do. the way to check the element before spending money on spares is to use specialist equipment as the aforementioned meggar to safely test the component without shocking yourself.
really depends what value you place on your life, or your customers???
Re: Identifying where a Bosch has come from…
just found this without even looking for it…
http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/modules.p … ge&pid=133Re: Hotpoint LFT114 not cleaning
indesit dif04 was £350 in b&q today. as a box. so bear that in mind if your considering replacing it, that spending any less than £350 and youll have the same or worse problems…
Re: Now ASDA are at it.
had a looksee round the sheds today as we need a new printer to see whats changed in the world of ink, and seems everyones at it, b&q, homebase, comet, currys etc…
really dont think its worth opening the shop up until next year at the earliest, until most of this cheap stuff has passed thru, even the premium kit is silly money. its really disheartening when you see the gulf between the prices on show, and what your best offer is.
across the board stock is either cheaper or same as what im able to buy it trade atm. 👿
Re: Creda Dryer 37762E
there is a s/o part showing on connect as an alternative for that part no though??? no idea if its the same as it hasnt got a pic :I
connect id: 5045176383422
Re: CDA dryer belt CI520
1932h9 is merloni… ariston a33 apparently – are you sitting down??? 70-odd quid trade if your on connect
