[helo_75]

typically

comets website says its double oven
http://www.comet.co.uk/shopcomet/produc … I-DFS090DO

but comets tech spec says its single

thats about right for comet that
supply a double oven cooker, then give you the info for a single oven then ream you for ordering the wrong parts

[helo_75]

but then sayin that, when i looked on the exploded diagram of that machine, it has one oven

then i googled it and it has two

maybe phidom could be more specific

if its a double oven, then yes its would exceed 19 amps, if its one then a plug top will do

visual inspections is always better than relying on pictures
!!

[helo_75]

it only has one oven

[helo_75]

ok.
what hes trying to say is that yes, it could well be the wiring harness

the fan plugs into a plug on the back wall of the freezer, the wires from there go to a multifunction plug, attatched to the pcb which is mounted on the top of the cabinet under the plastic cover

taking a multimeter, after establishing which plug does what ( and quite often on lg ittl be written on the pcb) then test for continuity in the loom, and establish which wire, or wires is faulty

then you could possibly run a replacement wire on the inside of the cabinet to the pcb, which may not be massiveley noticeable

i dont know anyone who would be prepared to hack the wiring out and refoam, leads to all sorts of problems

hope that helps?

[helo_75]

motors arent normally bad on beko

1,000,000,000,000,000,000 times better than haier

[helo_75]

erm, im sure, lookin at the diagram, because it has the 7 switch selector ( 0500281), which only allows one function at any one given time, you can run it on a 13amp plug top

[helo_75]

non communication between pcb’s

check blue cable between the 2

otherwise its either, or both pcb

[helo_75]

well, ive had a couple of them do that

changed all the sensors, the fan, etc.. turned out to be the wiring in foam!!

write off im afraid if thats the case

Lucky Goldstar

[helo_75]

well, daft as it may seems after such a short time, it may well be worth checking the brushes in the motor

common fault on indesit, the door locking and not starting

although i wouldnt rule out a faulty pcb

and thats where the fun starts

[helo_75]

production number please

usually starts 31….and is 16 digits long

sounds more like a pcb/dryer module faulrt depending on build date

[helo_75]

im sure i read on servicenet that you read bottom to top, not top to bottom

the fault dodes are the same, its just how you read them thats different.. im sure one of the hotpoint guys can confirm

[helo_75]

zanussi

indesit stuff is generally pants

and thaty machine you got is partucalarly bad

best scenario ? bosch washer, zanussi condenser dryer

[helo_75]

nah

open the door
and on the baffle betwwen the door and the drum
look up, at 12 o’clock and you’ll see it, screwed in with 2 screws
undo the screws and gently wiggle it out

be careful the wires dont come off

[helo_75]

it is the condenser

its designed to be kept cool by the supply of water

as the clothes get hot, they steam, and the steam then condenses in the condenser, and then runs into the pump and pumps away!!

lack of airflow commonly causes the problem you have

and the fact that theyre rubbish, but thats another story!!

good luck

[helo_75]

the plastic one at the top, where it fits to the drum is the one that needs to be taken off

yes they are breakable, but it needs to come of

if you break it, just nip b&q and get a jubilee clip to fit

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