[helo_75]

your gonna need a defrost timer……

very soon

[helo_75]

not difficult?

on a condenser?
lol

[helo_75]

is the filter light on on your hnc dryer?

only the heater available as a full unit, complete with stats, and it aint cheap, or easy to change

[helo_75]

its a resin filter.. its supposed to look like that

[helo_75]

whatever you do, dont blow up the tube or the switch to test its function

strange how its working fine

[helo_75]

thought penguins couldnt get up if they laid down?

[helo_75]

u sure its not f17?

[helo_75]

a proper model number would help, and the gb/fd number

on a sticker on the inside of the door

[helo_75]

carbon brushes?

[helo_75]

C00145013
is the pcb without j10, which is most likely the one on yours if it has the new heater box
c00143056 if it has the j10

C00203613

is the new heater box eprom
theyre still available as of now, but soon, youll need a smart card readr, and a smart card to program them… completely different part numbers

hope this helps

[helo_75]

2 different modules fitted
4 eproms

now, you really have to examine the board to determine wheter it has a j10 connection or not

eprom? another ball game

cold fill or hot and cold?
or 2 cold fills?
which heater box? is it the late type with the hot flush or not?

need the right info?
does it have the ‘y’ fill hose? thats the quick way of spotting it

you still need to see if the board has a j10 connection or not

[helo_75]

easy when you know how

[helo_75]

thats all thats listed on servicenet too

have you checked the selectors not bust?

[helo_75]

to be honest, if you tyake the lid off, remove the bezel, take off the pcb…. itll go back together if you take your time

they do that a lot… unless the pegs on the control fascia have broken, but its rare…

where in the world are you?

oh, and plug out if your going in….

[helo_75]

to me, that smacks of being a pcb fault

it happens a lot… theres a current thread in the public forums about it…

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