[helo_75]

i cable tie the belt to the pulley, then rotate the pulley until theres enough slack to slide the belt over the motor shaft, then turn the drum by hand (usually theough the door portal) and the bag tie will snap itself as the belt goes on

still not easy , but i find it the easiest

[helo_75]

i take them off and wind the spring round one turn, to make it close quicker and better

be careful taking it off though

[helo_75]

sounds like a thermistor fault to me

id change them both, both are in the freezer, one attached to the back panel itself, the other attatched to the evaporator (both in the freezer section)

[helo_75]

http://imagebank.indesitcompany.co.uk/b … HB8496.pdf

[helo_75]

oh, and does the board have a j10 connection along the top edge or not?

[helo_75]

more info please

things to look for?

hot/cold fill
cold fill only (one valve)
cold fill (2 valves)

does it have a flushing valve on the back of the heater box?

[helo_75]

u checked the brushes?

[helo_75]

ive never seen one snap, unless the drums jammed solid

[helo_75]

well

there are two different boards

one has a j10 connection, the other doesnt

now, no they dont programme like a wma, theres an eprom slot on the pcb, youll need one

few variations on eproms

is it hot and cold fill / cold fill/ does it have a flushing valve on the heater box?
the later ones had 2 cold fills, and a flushing valve

u need to know whther it has a j10, and the above things need checking to get the right parts

hope this helps

[helo_75]

ive only got a tdl52p wiring diagram

[helo_75]

f2 is motor jammed/tacho fault

something wrong with the motor, me thinks

however, the pcb could still be faulty

[helo_75]

heater relay on pcb sticking

requires both pcb AND eprom , possibly a smartcard if the eprom isnt available anymore

i think program 8 doesnt use the heater, thats why

gets expensive

[helo_75]

well, actually it syphons
much the same as syphoning petrol out of a tank really… take off the cover for the conditioner and make sure all the holes, and inside the cover are clean

to test its working.. fill it with conditioner.. then take a kettle, and fill the compartment to the top, it should start to run away. ifit does, that is not your problem

the usual culprit to be honest, is the hole in the top of the dispenser is usually clogged up with hard conditioner deposits

take out the drawer and look upwards, youll see the hole if you look , and i always poke something in, i use a pop rivet, others use a skewer, or something like

hope this helps

[helo_75]

yup, timers best bet if the pump was running and the motor wasnt

[helo_75]

how ya doin mr p?

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